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With the switch in hand it is trivial to work out how it works. The power comes in on one wire, goes out via the low beam side when it is in the at-rest position. Goes out via the high beam wire when pushed forward. Goes out via (I think) both LB 7 HB wires when pulled back to flash. By probing the connectivity between pins in these 3 different positions, you can work out what is what (if it is working correctly) or that it is broken (if you cannot make any sense of it) in some way.

Plus, the wiring diagram is freely available in the R32 workshop manual and in the better scans that I uploaded to SAU a couple of years ago, which can be searched up fairly easily.

And no, I'd be pretty sure that no-one has ever had this problem, because it doesn't sound like something that could occur via a failure. It sounds like something that would occur at the hands of a hamfisted previous owner. It might be as simple as the loom connectors are crossed over onto the main and low beam globes behind the headlights.

I'm not really clear what you are describing. The indicator stalk flashes the high beams if you pull it towards you(momentary), gives low beam with lights on in neutral and high beam with lights on pushed forward (where it should stay until pulled back)

What is happening in your case?

BTW this is an excerpt from the wiring diagrams GTSBoy scanned that might help

r32-headlight-switch.jpg

It shows the pin layout, and which pins should be connected in which mode of the switch.

High beam is supposed to come on in both directions you moved the stalk, towards the steer wheel is a quick flash and pushed towards the dash they stay on till you pull it back to the center position 
 

What head lights does the car have in it?

Your video shows it working as it should.

Forward is high beam. Middle is low beam. Back is flash high beam. Normal normal.

If the RH low beam out is not because the globe has died, then you need to take the binnacle shroud off, remove the main headlight switch, disassemble it, and clean the contacts, to get it working. It's very common for that contacts to get all blacked up.

Well, you can see where the connector has been running very hot, but at least the terminal inside is not burnt up. This (the high current drawn by the headlights) is the reason that I always recommend inserting relays into the circuit just behind the headlights, with a nice fat power wire from the fusebox/battery (fused if direct from battery, of course) - to get the high current away from all these switches.

Note that the connector you're holding is not what I meant about disassembling the switch. I mean pull the switch apart. It's not difficult, but don't be rough or ham fisted because you can fling the internals all over the place if you are. Get it apart, inspect and clean and lube with a little dielectric grease on the pivots and where the plastic rubs on the moving contact rockers.

15 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Well, you can see where the connector has been running very hot, but at least the terminal inside is not burnt up. This (the high current drawn by the headlights) is the reason that I always recommend inserting relays into the circuit just behind the headlights, with a nice fat power wire from the fusebox/battery (fused if direct from battery, of course) - to get the high current away from all these switches.

Note that the connector you're holding is not what I meant about disassembling the switch. I mean pull the switch apart. It's not difficult, but don't be rough or ham fisted because you can fling the internals all over the place if you are. Get it apart, inspect and clean and lube with a little dielectric grease on the pivots and where the plastic rubs on the moving contact rockers.

Took switch apart - cleaned with isopropl alchohol and used a little dielectric grease. unfortunately the lowbeam still doesnt work :( tested the headlight harness and bulb - both work just not when plugged in on the driver side. 

Right, so this is almost certainly a switch problem, they are failure prone, you can see from the circuit diagram that each headlight takes it's own path.

As GTSBoy said, the full current for each headlight goes through the switch, so either:

1. replace the switch with a brand new one (they are available from Nissan), or

2. rewire the headlights with a relay. Intercept the wire to the working LHS headlight to use as the relay trigger, run a properly fused wire from the battery to the fuse, and then run power from the relay to both lights. You need the main power feed to safely supply 20A which is pretty beefy, and then 10A to each headlight. There are dual output relays that can make wiring that a little easier like this (just don't accidentally use a switchover relay which turns of one when the other turns on

image.png

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