Jump to content
SAU Community

UniClutch

Butters
 Share

Recommended Posts

Butters Experienced

Butters

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, Blakeo said:

Between a exedy hypertwin and the uniclutch, uniclutch is nicer.

Clutch pedal is definitely lighter, I've only put 3000km on the car but I'm happy with it atm.

what car ? what power ? pics ? more details PLEASE :D

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Blakeo said:

Between a exedy hypertwin and the uniclutch, uniclutch is nicer.

Clutch pedal is definitely lighter, I've only put 3000km on the car but I'm happy with it atm.

Have you given it any abuse? 

I.e. on the track (as in circuit not the silly roll race "track"), big RPM, big down shifts, etc. or any skid pans/drift days?

That's the testing I would like to hear about.

Blakeo Rising Star

Blakeo

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Have you given it any abuse? 

I.e. on the track (as in circuit not the silly roll race "track"), big RPM, big down shifts, etc. or any skid pans/drift days?

That's the testing I would like to hear about.

Not yet, it got tuned with this clutch and made 480rwhp.

I've got it off the road atm to sort out the fuel lines and hopefully make a touch over 600rwhp.

I'll be taking it to the drags and drifting once I get it sorted.

  • Like 3
RB2533 Newbie

RB2533

Posted
Posted

Ist post I joined after seeing this thread 

I have just installed on a r33gtst

at first I liked it but I am finding the peddle free play changes …. To a point I have had a zero free play condition and the thrust bearing stayed engaged. I had to back off the adjustment on peddle.  
I am about to change slave and fit a braided line to see if I can get a better result 

  • Like 1
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
7 minutes ago, RB2533 said:

I am about to change slave and fit a braided line to see if I can get a better result 

I wouldn't be surprised if this helps. And I wouldn't be surprised if it keeps changing for a bit after the new slave&hose go on, because I find that my clutch always does this sort of shenanigans after any serious dismantlery. And then it settles down after a few corrective tweaks such as you've already done.

RB2533 Newbie

RB2533

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

I wouldn't be surprised if this helps. And I wouldn't be surprised if it keeps changing for a bit after the new slave&hose go on, because I find that my clutch always does this sort of shenanigans after any serious dismantlery. And then it settles down after a few corrective tweaks such as you've already done.

I hope so.  It seems pretty nice. OEM feel the lot. 

Butters Experienced

Butters

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, RB2533 said:

Ist post I joined after seeing this thread 

I have just installed on a r33gtst

at first I liked it but I am finding the peddle free play changes …. To a point I have had a zero free play condition and the thrust bearing stayed engaged. I had to back off the adjustment on peddle.  
I am about to change slave and fit a braided line to see if I can get a better result 

 

Did you get the sport or track ?

From what the documentation says the uniclutch has a small amount of movement to disengage. 

So your story of tricky pedal setup seems common. 

 

Hopefully you got it bled up too, as the bite point moving around is usually either plates wearing in or air in the line. 

 

 

RB2533 Newbie

RB2533

Posted
Posted
34 minutes ago, Butters said:

 

Did you get the sport or track ?

From what the documentation says the uniclutch has a small amount of movement to disengage. 

So your story of tricky pedal setup seems common. 

 

Hopefully you got it bled up too, as the bite point moving around is usually either plates wearing in or air in the line. 

 

 

Sport. I didn’t rebleed it cause I just removed the slave and left connected. 
 

I will change line and slave and see how it goes.  

RB2533 Newbie

RB2533

Posted
Posted

Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others. 
 

I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment 

 

I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r

Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is. 
 

last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline. 
 

reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit. 
 

it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise

 

 

  • Like 3
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • silviaz
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ah ok interesting to know.
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...