Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Gents, 

I recently purchased an R32 gts-t Mspec coupe for a reasonable price (I think). The reason it was cheap is because it isn't road legal and requires some chassis repairs before it can be certified and road legal here in NZ.  The previous owner had owned it for 20years and imported it over from AU to NZ 8 years ago (2015) with intentions of eventually getting it certified here in NZ. 

He finally started this process a few months ago to find that it has un-repaired A-pillar damage, in additon to a poor repair to the front chassis rail (both damages on the drivers side) and he doesnt have the resources or time to repair it.

Apart from this, the car has been extreamly well kept, garaged it's whole life and is in presitine condition for it's age. 

My question for you legends is this; Do you think the damage to the pillar and/or chassis rail is repairable without having to completely chop/replace the damaged area? Or even worse, a full front end cut to replace? I'm really hoping this can be repaired with hydraulic pulls and extensive panel beating instead. 

Also keen to know how major you would score this damage; From 1 being "minor - crack on with it" and 10 being "don't even bother mate - she's cooked" 

Cheers fellas

20231223_190209.jpg

20231223_190140.jpg

20231223_190836.jpg

20231223_190844.jpg

20231223_202722.jpg

 

20231223_000416.jpg

20231223_152935.jpg

Edited by Skida6453
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485173-is-my-skyline-a-write-off/
Share on other sites

It's impossible to see/say what the deal with the chassis rail is. It's no biggie if it needs to be cut out and new metal folded up to replace it. It's just a lot of work. Can be uneconomic to repair if it's an insurance job, but when it is being done for lover, it is perfectly doable. But as I said, impossible to see what it is.

The "A pillar" damage, I presume is the bit that worries you the most. Looks like it would all be beatable. But it would likely take someone with the knack to get it straight and true, so that everything is in the right place and the door doesn't start hanging funny, etc.

18 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

What was your intention when you bought the car, did you plan to repair it yourself or were you planning to find a shop to do the work for you?

Intention was to strip it all back to the required level to get access to the repairs, provide replacement panels if needed, engage a reputable repair certfier a workshop to do the the repairs, before re-assembling myself and getting NZ LVV.

1 hour ago, Skida6453 said:

Intention was to strip it all back to the required level to get access to the repairs, provide replacement panels if needed, engage a reputable repair certfier a workshop to do the the repairs, before re-assembling myself and getting NZ LVV.

Sounds good. Have you started approaching any workshops yet? It doesn't sound like your plan needs to change from what you intended to do from the start.

18 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

It's impossible to see/say what the deal with the chassis rail is. It's no biggie if it needs to be cut out and new metal folded up to replace it. It's just a lot of work. Can be uneconomic to repair if it's an insurance job, but when it is being done for lover, it is perfectly doable. But as I said, impossible to see what it is.

The "A pillar" damage, I presume is the bit that worries you the most. Looks like it would all be beatable. But it would likely take someone with the knack to get it straight and true, so that everything is in the right place and the door doesn't start hanging funny, etc.

Thanks for the reply GTSBoy. I have always wanted to own a factory turbo/manual gts-t in black and this was the only way to aquire one without coming up with another house deposit... so im ready to spend what I need to get it road worthy again.

Agree about the chassis rail - I am already on the hunt for a replacement chassis rail as I think this will be the best option for that repair.

And you are correct about the A pillar damage - I really dont want to have to replace that whole quater as its far more invasive and costly. The door closses fine currently and the guard lines up so fingers crossed it can be beated.

I stripped out the dash and carpet today and have found a minor ding/push on the lower firewall/inner guard just behind the accelerator, and the sill has bowed on the inside - pressumibly pushed up when the underside was damaged. Photos attached.

I have a 3D scan with the original repair certifier in a few weeks time so will be interesting to see what that comes back with.

20231229_195929.jpg

20231229_195945.jpg

1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Sounds good. Have you started approaching any workshops yet? It doesn't sound like your plan needs to change from what you intended to do from the start.

Not yet but ill likely go with who the repair certifier recommends. I have a 3D scan with them in a few weeks time so will see what he says after that. Now that the interior is removed he should be able to asses it better.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I recently got their dbw 74mm throttle body and pedal kit. It is sensational quality especially the wiring harnesses. Unfortunately I can’t answer u about the fitment to stock inlet manifold as I’m going Rahjab Racing forward plenum. Only one thing to be careful of is understand u have to pay gst and import fees if your purchase is over $1,000 in one shipment.
    • yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.
    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
×
×
  • Create New...