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Hi all,

Completely new to the rb26 motor platform. 
so far engine wise I have done the basics - hks intake, dp and cat back, hks intercooler, nismo oil pump. 
 

next parts to come are hks turbos, fuel pumps, injectors, standalone, valve springs, hks v cam, nismo intake manifold, arp studs, cat removed and dual clutch. So my question is can I run only a max of around 525hp to be safe on this setup? According to the garage I am working with don’t want to go higher with a 30 year old motor. 
 

or do I need to rebuild the internals and bottom end? What is everyone running for a safe 525-550hp? 
 

got a mint vspec 2 r32 and don’t want to blow it up … 

 

added a photo of the underneath of the car before I started modding. It’s pretty clean. 

 

thanks 

IMG_9533.jpeg

c58f4ad4-6465-4f4b-8b5f-de1860d69257.jpeg

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Welcome to Skyline ownership. I assume you are from USA.

Please browse around these forums, there are decades worth of information here. Everything you asked has been answered.

You can start in the RB26 dyno thread and see what power people made with what mods.

10 minutes ago, Milkmun said:

Jesus undercarriage is mint as.

Yeah when I said mint I meant it … I bought her off a collector for a let’s say not cheap value 😂

75060f32-d5e0-4b2d-9f5a-667e58afd5b3.jpeg

a084b796-6fc2-4b0a-8aa4-f3cf0a584be4.jpeg

Edited by Sleepergm
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Yep, that car has either had a very careful restoration, or has not seen a lot of roads in its life, good find!

In terms of next steps to modify it, like niZmO_Man said there is a lot of info on here, but some thoughts.

Firstly; are you sure you to start modifying a mint, probably stock and certainly very expensive car? Don't get me wrong, your car, your choice, but there would be cheaper places to start if you want to end up with a modified GTR and it is almost certainly more valuable standard.

Assuming 550hp means around 400 Australian wheel kw, HKS turbos (second assumption, you mean GT-SS III, I'm not sure about their whole, current range) will not get you there and recent posts suggest they are laggy compared to a modern ball bearing single. If you want to stick with twin turbos and get close to that power you want, the tried and tested "-5" Garrets (which I think might have a new name now, but they are specific for GTR twin fitment) with about 20psi boost should get close.

When you say "standalone" I guess you mean ECU, if not you need to add that to your plans; go with any modern ECU that your tuner is comfortable with.

I'd agree that all of that is at the limit of a good condition standard engine, keeping in mind that is about 3x the power the car was released with. It would be smarter to rebuild the engine first with forged pistons and rods, new bearings/rings/seals etc and replace that "nismo" oil pump with a tomei or nitto one including an extended crank collar.

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Yeah, I wouldn't mess with such a museum specimen as that, and I am famous for saying "just mod it and drive it" to almost everything else. I mean, I daily my R32. Literally. To and from work every day, >10k km per year.

I otherwise agree with what Duncan said. The HKS turbos aren't worth it. Assuming the engine has done no work, then it should take making 500ish wheel HP. But remember that there is actually no such thing as a "safe" power level, as anything can break at any time, especially when pushing it to way more than double the stock power. Every single one of us here who has run an engine like that has broken something in an expensive fashion at some point.

Can you even use that much power in HK? Won't the CCP be putting mind control helmets on anyone trying to enjoy themselves in the brave new world?

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Yeah there are ways to getting around it in hk. I just can’t drive stock cars and like a bit of uniqueness to my cars … yeah I think I might head down the gt2860 - 9 turbos rather than the hks ones. But might still run hks v cam also unless it’s a waste of money there? Guessing I can get good numbers from the -9s? 
 

But yeah this one is probably one of the most mint ones in hk… my friend also has a mint nismo r32. I will keep and store all the stock parts then I can always convert back to stock again if needed. It’s so hard to find a stock r32 without rust in hk … I looked at 3-4 before I fell on a mint vspec 2 … granted I spent double the price but I don’t have any issues at all with this one. Didn’t change any stock parts as they all were in perfect running order other than a tiny transmission gasket leak. 

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Yes thinking of getting the v cam for sure then. Just on the ropes with the nismo intake manifold if I want to spend on that. Even though obviously the runners are more even and bell housing inside are more efficient. Not a cheap part though. 

I think it improves throttle response quite alot with the power band and also helps even flow out to cylinder 6 which can be an issue with the stock manifold. But it’s 3k aud plus so not sure it’s cost effective. 

I think it improves throttle response quite alot with the power band and also helps even flow out to cylinder 6 which can be an issue with the stock manifold. But it’s 3k aud plus so not sure it’s cost effective. 
 

are there any other cheaper options? Or better options? 

The plenum question might be a bit of a rabbit hole; simply the "intent" or advertising of the nismo item is one thing, but real world results don't show a real problem or difference until much higher power levels.

In the race car we simply put the injectors in flow order (ie lowest flow in cylinder 1 and highest flow in cylinder 6) AND then add cylinder specific fuel trim +1% on 4 and 5 and +2% on cylinder 6. While this is not ultra efficient it has been safe and effective and I think that is pretty common practice

Yes I think you’re right … just adjust the tuning accordingly… looks great though. But costs. There are no other intake manifolds out there? 
 

Also while we are on fueling - I heard u shouldn’t run a str pipe no cat on these cars otherwise they spoil too quickly and can blow the motor running lean. Thoughts on this? Thanks 

I'm not sure about other intake manifolds, I know the very big power guys have options (generally with single ethrottle conversion too).

I am sure removing the cat won't cause a lean out, plenty of people have probably done so without issues. Certainly our race car doesn't have a cat. A more important consideration is probably whether you care about the world or not.

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15 minutes ago, Sleepergm said:

I think the issue was my tuner friend removed his cat without a tune and over boosted leading to lean mixture and blowing up his r34 in the process. 

A modern ECU has so many engine protection features that this should never happen in this day and age. Is your 'tuner friend' a friend that tunes ECU's or a friend that likes 'tuner cars'?

With regards to running a cat or not, you will be able to achieve the power level you want while still running a cat. Unless there is another specific reason you want to delete the cat, I think there is a very strong case for continuing to run a (high flow) cat. 

He’s an actual tuner… he did it 15 years ago or so though. Said he wouldn’t run catless again without a tune. 
 

honestly I want to run no cat to shot flames out the exhaust on a tune and also get higher boost level quicker with less restriction. 

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