Jump to content
SAU Community

What oil pump gears?

The Skyline Guy r34
 Share

Recommended Posts

The Skyline Guy r34 Rookie

The Skyline Guy r34

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
On 02/02/2024 at 8:05 PM, joshuaho96 said:

You are not removing the oil pump without pulling the engine. Just isn't happening. It is theoretically possible, in practice a 700 pound boat anchor is going to be hanging over your head and the slightest mistake will severely injure you.

I have done very annoying jobs that should require pulling the engine but I didn't. I get the mental block when it comes to pulling engines, especially because it requires a ton of shop space most people don't have. This is one case where you need to pull the engine.

Ok, will it be worth it to put on a fluidampr to prolong the life of the stock pump and gears?

Edited by The Skyline Guy r34
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, The Skyline Guy r34 said:

Ok, will it be worth it to put on a fluidampr to prolong the life of the stock pump and gears?

Probably, especially if the stock damper is 25+ years old. I don't think it will do much for the oil pump which mostly dies to cavitation but the rest of the engine will appreciate it.

  • Like 1
Butters Experienced

Butters

Posted
Posted

I have to add, I've run two(small sample I know) RB26 with stock short nose r32 crank and stock oil pump gears at high power over many years without issue.

I do always put on an ATI damper and manage limiter.

650whp - run 9's and has been in my hands for 16 years and counting.

780whp - driven weekly, roll raced etc and been going 4 years and counting.

 

This is no guarantee for you but it is a counter to the RB's smash gears by just looking at them :)

  • Like 1
The Skyline Guy r34 Rookie

The Skyline Guy r34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, Butters said:

I have to add, I've run two(small sample I know) RB26 with stock short nose r32 crank and stock oil pump gears at high power over many years without issue.

I do always put on an ATI damper and manage limiter.

650whp - run 9's and has been in my hands for 16 years and counting.

780whp - driven weekly, roll raced etc and been going 4 years and counting.

 

This is no guarantee for you but it is a counter to the RB's smash gears by just looking at them :)

Ok, so you would say its worth getting a damper?

Butters Experienced

Butters

Posted
Posted
24 minutes ago, The Skyline Guy r34 said:

Ok, so you would say its worth getting a damper?

It's always been my policy but I have no comparison motor without one to compare it to.

As others have said, the one on your motor is also for sure trashed by now.

  • Like 1
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, The Skyline Guy r34 said:

Ok, so you would say its worth getting a damper?

I will bet if you've never replaced your damper the one on the car is absolutely wrecked and you should think about replacing it regardless of how much power you want to make.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
samw/skyline Contributor

samw/skyline

Posted
Posted

You should wait to get the billet gears like the guys are saying, but removing oil pump in engine if you ever need to for some reason is possible. I coincidentally just watched this video the other day. I bought gears without knowing how much trouble removing the pump would be so I've decided to just sit on the stock one till it goes and then go down the rabbit hole of pump, gears, crank collar, head drain, pan, etc. 

 

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

well, good on him for proving its possible, but it is still not how I would do it. That vid doesn't show probably the trickiest bit with cleaning and resealing the sump (although he does state it is done and not leaking, wish I could say that for mine :rofl:)

My view is still that replacing an RB oil pump is an engine out job, and you probably shouldn't do it without putting on a larger sump and doing some oil return mods.  There is very little safety gained by moving to billet gears alone, and you really can't put in a higher flowing one without making other engine out changes. And of course, in a 32 you still have the short oil pump drive which is by far the biggest issue with pumps. Also, the time to do it in the car is almost certainly longer than the time to R&R the engine and doing it on a stand. 

Just stay off the limiter with a standard engine. Or really, any engine, these things are expensive these days

  • Like 1
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Duncan said:

Just stay off the limiter

But but but... It's when I know it's time to change gears or reached my desired max speed in 4th (as I'm still using the factory dash lol).

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

But but but... It's when I know it's time to change gears or reached my desired max speed in 4th (as I'm still using the factory dash lol).

Yeah, I wish my redline in 1st was about 10k. It comes up and yells "Surprise mutherf**ker!" whenever the red mist comes down at the traffic lights.

  • Haha 3
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, r32-25t said:

Once you’ve pulled the box, the crossmember. The drive shafts and what ever else, it would have been quicker to just pull the engine 

And now you have 500+ pounds of engine hanging basically in free space threatening to split your head open. Not worth the hassle. And I would go as far to suggest that doing turbos with the engine in the car is not the worst idea in the world if you can afford to take your time and don't have space for a car and an engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      Will I Need A Retune After Cahanging My Catalytic Converter ?

      By silviaz · Posted

      Does it make a difference in your turbo having a shorter life if you have a cat converter as it causes that back pressure versus less/no back pressure with a decat? (Not sure if this is accurate) Also slightly different question if you went from a oem cat to a decat or vice versa will it require a tune? I heard if you change the dump pipe onwards it requires a tune?
    • GTSBoy
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. Have only gotten as far as contemplating the task of having to put in the required fairly heavy wiring and fusing to run it (along with the big alternator), and preferring not to. But otherwise, it would be nice to have a little extra freedom as to exactly where the compressor is located and free up some space around the exhaust side of the engine.
    • GTSBoy
      A little PU bush story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Following from this in a related by not closely-related sense... Because I was buying a bunch of other GKTech stuff, I got some rear subframe collars. The history that leads up to this is: 25+ years ago the car arrived into the country with stock subframe bushes. At some point shortly thereafter I added Whiteline pineapple rings, set up neutral, and it improved the rear end behaviour. Well, it is my vague memory that I was happier with it with them in. Less axle tramp on launches, generally better, etc etc. ~2012 it got a new non-HICAS subframe with new stock bushes. No pineapple rings. I reckon that ever since then I've been dissatisfied with the axle tramp. Recently I've been f**king around a lot with all aspects of the suspension. One contemplation has been to relocate the rear lower control arm front mount points (and do the other things needed to make that work) to improve longitudinal rear grip by getting rid of some of the stupid anti-squat that Nissan ladled into the R32. But.... before doing that I thought I'd put some collars in. And.... The collars are good. The rear sounds a little bit different, but there has been no significant increase in NVH coming up into the body. In terms of rear behaviour - expansion joints on long sweeping elevated freeway ramps that would sometimes cause the rear to jiggle around a bit, no longer seem to do so. It appears that jamming chunks of metal into the gaps in the rubber so they can't move much is a really good thing. And the launch behaviour and general forward traction situation seems to be greatly improved too. It's impossible to be really sure, because the tyres are completely shagged - they are freakishly willing to let go right now. But as an A-B test with the same tyres it certainly seems to grip up a lot better. Highly recommended to anyone who still has stock bushes.
    • PLYNX
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By PLYNX · Posted

      Bit off topic maybe but has anyone had a crack at one of those aftermarket electric compressors ? Bit of a search came up with one put out by Speedy Air Spares. Looks interesting and looks as if you'd have to run a big arse alternator. Found this out after the fact as my air con compressor packed it in and soon after my alternator ! !
    • GTSBoy
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. Needs new ports. Usually just achieved by screwing an adapter onto them. Be aware that any AC compressor that hasn't been used in a long time will very likely have dried out seals and will not hold gas. Oh, and obviously you will require a new receiver-dryer also.
×
×
  • Create New...