Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, new guy here... my teenage son is into drifting, picked up an R32 manual coupe drift car. Trying to learn what I can about it, and work on it together to get it going again (currently not running). It's all a bit daunting, we're coming from dirtbikes so its a bit of a jump to this, definitely out of our comfort zone.

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485353-brisbane-newbie/
Share on other sites

Hey thanks! Yeah it's a bit of a basket case for sure, very rough, interior is pretty well stripped, no roof lining and A/B/C pillars, sunroof leaks, missing lots of switches and trim etc. Body panels are rough, had a bit of a hard life, chassis rails are pretty well stuffed.

It's cranking but no spark, injectors are pulsing. So maybe faulty ECU, ECCS relay or ignitor??? although I think the ignitor is OK. Or could be a bad earth or fuse or something simple??? It never is... the wiring is a bit 'how you going'. Got an auto electrician coming on the weekend to give us a hand. Can't just throw parts at it, parts are expensive!!!

  • Garret Turbo with HKS rear
  • Tial 38mm external wasegate
  • Spitfire coil packs
  • ARP head studs
  • PWR intercooler, radiator, oil cooler
  • Braided power steering and oil lines
  • Custom welded charge pipes
  • Blitz boost controller
  • PWR catch can
  • GKtech brake hardline delete kit
  • HKS coilovers
  • Bride seats
  • Walbro 460 fuel pump

The blue plate on the engine bay says E-HCR32 and RB20DET 1998... what's the go with 1998???

 

pic1.jpg

pic3.jpg

pic4.jpg

pic2.jpg

pic5.jpg

pic6.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485353-brisbane-newbie/#findComment-7987891
Share on other sites

Well, for a drift car it looks reasonably well cared for (from this far away). Of course it would be driven hard but the parts are better quality than average and some thought went into the front bar mounting/intercooler etc

You can check the actual build date using the japanese vin (hr32-xxxxxx) here: https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/nissan?_s=h

The australian R32 GTR workshop manual has wiring at the rear which covered all R32, so grab a copy of that; recent high quality scans are here: 

 

I'm not as familiar with the rb20 wiring, but check the earth at the ignitor is well grounded, when the coil pack cover is missing that ground is often forgotten. There is also an ignition relay next to the ECCS relay near the ECU to check.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485353-brisbane-newbie/#findComment-7987894
Share on other sites

Thanks so much for the wiring diagram, that'll come in handy for sure!!

Yeah looks good from a distance, and for a drift car it's better than what I expected, except for the rail condition, I expected that. Bit of bog here and there in the panels but not too bad, we've nicknamed it Bogzilla.

I'll make a new thread after the weekend to give an update, hopefully we can get it running this weekend.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485353-brisbane-newbie/#findComment-7987899
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 19/03/2024 at 12:08 PM, Tim32 said:

Yeah the Drift R wheels look awesome. They are pitted though, wonder if I can fix that somehow.

IMG_3033 Large.jpeg

Looks sandable maybe? I cant remember if its just polished or if theres a coat of something on it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485353-brisbane-newbie/#findComment-7988119
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I bought the 1/18 scale celica and nsx from Justin and they are very detailed and good quality. I will definitely be interested in others in the series as they come out 
    • Just install a grease nipple into the centre of the outer steel of the FUCA. Make sure the bushes aren't long enough to touch each other underneath that nipple. Cut a few mm off each if need be. Then you can push grease in there while it is all assembled. That was the very first thing I did (to all 4 ends) of the FUCAs on my 32 when I put Whiteline adjustable bushes into them. They would squeeze the grease out real fast, and I could squeeze it back in faster.
    • @GTSBoy I found the issue (sort of) when I took apart the bushing again, it was completely dry inside! When I experimented with it, all the grease would push out when I would compress the bushings. I wonder if this has anything to do with me putting in the poly bush first on both sides and then pushing in the metal barrel. Maybe I should have put in the metal barrel first then the rubber bushings so the spread pattern is different.   It's fixed (for now).
    • Just redid that entire job. 4 hours, but tightened everything properly. Had to jack the rotor instead of having the car on blocks as there was no room for the FUCA arms to tighten and the j arm. All good now. Cheers for the help!
    • I would sell those side feeds before you hydra-lock a motor. I won't say too much about Yellow Jackets because I'll hurt people's feelings, however ask those that tune RBs day in/out what they think of them.
×
×
  • Create New...