Stock rb25det neo questions

[Wazmond]

Thats unfortunate. Would yous know of any kits etc that wouldnt require the reo being cut? or possibly even changing the reo to a different model? Like to an R33 GTR/260RS for more room?
 

Otherwise, what is this FP2 software and how does it become upgraded? is it some paywall or like a physical thing?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

1 hour ago, Wazmond said:

Otherwise, what is this FP2 software and how does it become upgraded? is it some paywall or like a physical thing?

it's a firmware upgrade to the Nistune board, I have the firmware writer you can borrow if you want (since you're in Sydney).

Downloads are here:

https://www.nistune.com/support/software-downloads

 

Optionally you can just send back the board to Matt at Nistune and he can do it for you:

https://www.nistune.com/nistune-shop/feature-pack-firmware-upgrade-detail

[GTSBoy]

I have FP2 and I have a Profec. I would want the ease of fiddling with the boost setting (even though you do it so infrequently that many would say it doesn't matter) from outside of Nistune, because setting boost controllers at the lights is easier on even the most obtuse Japanese boost controller interface than is juggling a laptop.

[Wazmond]

ahh gotchya, I dont have nistune installed yet, still debating on who to go to for install + tune. 

Im a sucker for jap brand mods, dunno why, but either way, will look at getting a profec soon. HKS evc is a bit too expensive for me...

Havent researched on this yet, but I wonder if anyones relocated the horns and i think the trans cooler? to a different location. Though moving transcooler might not be beneficial if its in traffic (which in Syd, is impossible to avoid)

And upgrade the ac condenser fan to a more thinner/slimmer one. Maybe then, there'd be more clearance for a FMIC, without having to cut the REO. Again, havent done ANY research so please dont roast me for 'use the search feature'
 

[GTSBoy]

I know where there is a complete Profec B spec II available, if you want one of those.

[Wazmond]

Nah, im after the more newer looking, one with the OLED display

[Wazmond]

Y'know what, after reading a topic on a 360kw build using a nistune (who ended up going LINK), im now considering a LINK over a nistune. The engine protection alone would probably be worth it. And id like to learn to tune so would be nice to have that safe guard. Which means i probably wont need a boost controller then, or the R35 MAF. 

Becoming a bit of a blog now but oh wells.
As mentioned previously, the goal is around 300kw, for a daily driver. Will be looking at fitting a highflow turbo or similar (something that doesnt require downpipes, manifolds etc to be changed out) when the current stock gives out or the money for it is there. 

[Kinkstaah]

I hate to be that guy, but a highflow that doesn't need a change of downpipes (i.e you need to buy the HPI downpipe or similar, which is good)

And 98?

Just.... be happy with 270kw. Unless you want E85 which for a daily is something you'll probably CBF running the gamut on in 2024. Just hyper expensive and limited in practicality. All the over 300kw setups are running E85, or external gates. You can imagine E85+External Gate changes things a lot. You can run gates off the stock manifold, or the stock turbo housing even... but you start getting into the "Why don't I just run a different manifold" discussion pretty fast.

The LINK ECU is the goods. They fill a similar niche as the Haltech but haven't quite generated their own tax yet.

The benefits over a Nistune are really notable if you want to be a tinkerer - there's a lot of custom stuff that goes on in cars like these when you change stuff. A tuner with nistune is good, but you really need tons of cycles and driving around, and different weather and all these circumstances that a dyno just can't dial in. The link will help you do that and get modified cars driving like factory cars.

[Wazmond]

2 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

The LINK ECU is the goods. They fill a similar niche as the Haltech but haven't quite generated their own tax yet.

The benefits over a Nistune are really notable if you want to be a tinkerer - there's a lot of custom stuff that goes on in cars like these when you change stuff. A tuner with nistune is good, but you really need tons of cycles and driving around, and different weather and all these circumstances that a dyno just can't dial in. The link will help you do that and get modified cars driving like factory cars.

So what youre saying is, a nistune would require extensive dyno'ing etc to even get remotely close to driving like factory, where as a LINK would do the same with ease? If I go link, it would most likely be tuned by myself, learning from scratch. Where as Nistune, would be tuned probably by a shop.
But to be honest, as much as Id like the huge capabilty of the LINK, still debating on LINK + Self tune (no experience at all) vs nistune + tuned by a shop..

Actually while ont his topic, just want to check pricing/requirements.
Link / Haltech
ECU $2000-$2500
Wideband (Got a brand new LSU4.9 in the garage, just gotta get a gauge/controller?)
FMIC $700? (probably blitz)

NISTUNE
Nistune installation <$500
Tune <$1000
FMIC $700 (blitz?)
R35 MAF ~$350?

 

[GTSBoy]

I'm staying Nistune until I am forced not to. And I tune myself. Well, some of my tuning anyway. My Bro-in-law is a gun tuner and much prefers to be in control on the dyno. I just make some changes with road tuning when required.

But I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND trying to tune an engine from a cold start (and I'm talking about you being a cold start, not the engine). Recipe for unhappiness. It is something you need to build up familiarity with and skills on.

[Kinkstaah]

1 hour ago, Wazmond said:

So what youre saying is, a nistune would require extensive dyno'ing etc to even get remotely close to driving like factory, where as a LINK would do the same with ease? If I go link, it would most likely be tuned by myself, learning from scratch. Where as Nistune, would be tuned probably by a shop.
But to be honest, as much as Id like the huge capabilty of the LINK, still debating on LINK + Self tune (no experience at all) vs nistune + tuned by a shop..

Actually while ont his topic, just want to check pricing/requirements.
Link / Haltech
ECU $2000-$2500
Wideband (Got a brand new LSU4.9 in the garage, just gotta get a gauge/controller?)
FMIC $700? (probably blitz)

NISTUNE
Nistune installation <$500
Tune <$1000
FMIC $700 (blitz?)
R35 MAF ~$350?

 

This is not what I said.

What I said was, any shop. ANY TUNER, EVER, is only going to get your tune dialled into like 80% of how nice it can be.

This is not a knock against tuners.

This is just because there's only so well you can dial a car in in a couple of hours on a dyno. You (and they, and anyone) needs TIME and lots of it, to really dial in a car. People are not going to pay 200+ hours of dyno time to fully tune a car. But your labor is free.

In any scenario, you would get a tuner to do the baseline stuff, and tune the car. You can learn and refine it, to patch up the little gaps that WILL be in there, because tuners cannot predict the future, which is exactly what GTSBoy is saying.

Having things like Wideband O2 control is a very useful training tool where as something like Nistune is a more 'basic' ECU, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's better/easier to learn on. You have much less safeties in it too. You get tuning wrong, you can destroy your motor in seconds.

[robbo_rb180]

The Link is a great investment LONG TERM.
ADD a WB02(pending ecu maybe able to wire direct to ecu), IAT sensor, 2 wire bosch knock sensor and MAC valve minimum.

Tuning yourself with no experience is not a good idea, pay for the car to be tuned by someone that knows the software and platform. Unless you are willing to invest alot of time and money with guidance from an experienced person into learning its not worth having a go yourself and potentially destroying an engine or having multiple issues. 

Look at HP Academy, Evans tuning school and Link forum for more info or attending courses for 1 on 1 lessons (I did all this). I have been down this path and for me it was worth it at the time, I was limited with tuners available where I lived and enjoyed the learning but had a very good understanding mechanically and electrically of how everything worked together. I did work at a shop tuning for a short period and thats where I learnt more.

I'd be talking with any local shops and going with what they recommend as you will need support over time and good sticking with the same tuner if they are highly recommended and experienced.

  

 

[Murray_Calavera]

Hmm... looks like this is an unpopular opinion but it's what I did. 

I don't see any issue with tuning the car yourself. So, from base map to 99% sorted, all by yourself with tuning on road. Then once you're happy you can't improve the tune any further, take the car to the dyno and get the timing dialled in. You'll probably only need to pay for an hour of dyno time and the car will be amazing. 

My primary method of learning to tune was from Evans Performance Academy. They are nice enough to hand out all of their content for $50USD, can't beat that value. If there were any knowledge gaps, I'd see if there was a HP academy webinar coving the topic, if I was still stuck I'd hit up Haltech and their amazing tech's would help me get it sorted (I fkn love Haltech and their tech guys). 

I think you'll know pretty quick if this is something you want to do/want to learn to do. If you are keen to learn and are sensible in your approach, I don't think there is any risk with doing all the tuning on your car yourself. 

[Wazmond]

Hey lads, thanks for the replies.

Im still yet to decide on which ecu to go with (heavily considering nistune still due to its price), but for tuning, ill leave it to the pros. Ive read and heard decent/good things about 'performance academies' and it being a good place to start learning so Ill have a look at them first before touching anything on the ecu's (if it does need touching atleast..)

Otherwise just to confirm, I 'dont need' a wideband do I? The tuning shop uses their own wideband etc when tuning? And having your own wideband is mainly for your own datalogging or use? I bought an AEM wideband a while ago, it was faulty though, but Ive got an new LSU4.9 in the garage sitting there...

[Murray_Calavera]

15 minutes ago, Wazmond said:

I 'dont need' a wideband do I?

Umm I suppose technically you don't "need" one. 

I wouldn't even consider running a car without one though. Also if you get a decent ECU, you'll want to use the wideband o2 settings and engine protection. Also in this day and age, I would only use a CAN based wideband.

[GTSBoy]

You don't need a wideband. At the minimum it is a tuning tool, so only used when tuning. Old ECUs (like a Nistuned stock ECU) can only use narrowband and so can only target stoich mixtures when on closed loop fuelling. More modern ECUs can use the wideband all the time to target other stoichiometries when in closed loop and can be set up to auto-tune the fuel map just as you drive around (which is still, technically, "tuning"). And you can have alarms and actions on incorrect mixture detection, etc, that are not possible with narrowband.

If I were putting in a Haltech/Link, etc, there is no way that I would not have a wideband with it.

[Wazmond]

Hey I've got a Hyper Hot InaZma? some voltage stabiliser, thats hooked up when i bought the car. Any idea what the pros/cons of this is and whether its worth keeping?

[GTSBoy]

1 hour ago, Wazmond said:

Hyper Hot InaZma

100% pure snake oil.

[joshuaho96]

6 hours ago, Wazmond said:

Hey I've got a Hyper Hot InaZma? some voltage stabiliser, thats hooked up when i bought the car. Any idea what the pros/cons of this is and whether its worth keeping?

Pros: you have some rare discontinued JDM tyte mod in your car
Cons: it's a parasitic battery drain that does nothing at best

[Wazmond]

okay thank you thank you ahahha