Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i was checking these out and im thinking about chucking 2k on a 256gb model for my vehicle.

After watching a video on how it installs the interior seems identical to that of the Q60 so i cant see an issue.

Though i see they actually leave the top screen in the car behind it still attached and working with piggyback cables that run the new tesla style full screen.

In saying that this probley means that the new screen will still have all the Japanese settings and GPS and so on and buying this screen will not correct that small issue at all which is just a small thing that irks me with the car.

Otherwise this fullscreen looks awesome anyone got on and how is it with screen lag as i bought a Kenwood deck a while back from my WRX and i feel like the things is laggy and crap.

 though better then what the WRX offered. 

https://squarewheelsauto.com/products/new-aucar-mark6-tesla-style-screen-for-infiniti-q50-q60-mk6?variant=43153281646800

20220526_084346_1024x.jpg

Edited by HYBRID VL
  • Like 1

So I can't speak about this specific unit, I've never used it, but I have put a double din android head unit (ATOTO S8) in the Stagea)

Firstly, this is an awesome solution to the problem where we can't get english head units any more, so I think that probably trumps everything else I'm about to say. A modern car just runs too much through the nav unit to have Japanese only in a 20k+ car.  Also the physical button inclusion is important and excellent in that kit....no comment on the look/style though :whistling:

A couple of things to consider that I learned from my andriod install

* open android head units are absolutely awesome compared to the limited options most brands offer, or compared to carplay/android auto. The ability to install any app you want is excellent, eg I use Realdash a lot in the Stagea

* you almost certainly don't need more than 128GB memory. Check your phone memory usage and exclude pics/videos etc, the apps and their data use stuff all space....saved you $400.

* the reverse camera quality in this kit - looks like it uses the factory cam so you'll get crappy old SD video on a big shiny screen; not sure if they have an HD reverse camera option

* be sure to check the actual 4g (or 5g) bands they support. Australia is a bit strange and most generic head units don't actually support the local frequencies (also keep in mind you will have to bin the head unit when 4g shuts down because it is useless without data access)

* consider the time it takes to load from start, particularly to show the reverse camera. ATOTO make a big fuss about the fact it resumes when you start the car and if you start it and hit reverse straight away the camera is always there.....if you have to wait for a 30 second boot up every time you start the car and reverse it will get old very quickly

* bluetooth phone quality can be an issue. The stagea is a very noisy car but the ATOTO bluetooth was useless....I had to reinstall the separate Parrot phone bluetooth I had removed to get a chance of people hearing me and vice versa

* finally, my ears can't really tell but the audio quality can be terrible in these. I had to add an amp and better speakers to the ATOTO is was quiet and tinny.

Also, the install vid focussed on how quick you can do it.....you should never do an install with the car on because you are likely to be chasing blown fuses afterwards which is really frustrating...turn the car off and disconnect the battery to save yourself grief. Also keep in mind he didn't install any of the antennas or anything which will be required and are likely to need you to pull lots more of the interior apart to put them somewhere you are happy with

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
1 hour ago, HYBRID VL said:

Im actually thinking all the Map and all that will stay Japanese due to using the same Original NAV unit.

If you are replacing with android, then you will use android nav software, so you will have Australian maps.

In one of the screen shots they show, they explicitly have Waze installed, which is what I use on my phone. However, waze requires an internet connection so itr will need a sim to use waze or share your phones internet connection. Its brilliant to avoid traffic and speed traps.

For my parents, I have installed "HERE We Go" which all9ows you to download maps over WiFI (or shared internet), and then run navigation (australian maps) without an internet connection.

Ok kool i was worried that it used the maps from the OEM sat nav which it piggy backs from awesome sounds like a win win then.

Ive noticed alot of apps lock when i start driving and wont let me load them.

Apparently there is an app loader i can use to bypass that aswell like Youtube and all that but i havent really got into it all yet.

  • 4 months later...
17 hours ago, V35_Paul said:

I'm thinking i might get this next week. Got some spare cash.

Did you end up getting it?

Care to post a review?

No i didnt as it was not going to correct my issue with the jap only built in GPS as it still uses the standard issue CPU/screen behind that tesla style screen and it piggy backs off it.

but im at the point of installing a sub and amp so i might have to bite the bullet and get something better then stock so yer dunno its the best looking deck on the market at the moment for the Q50/60 imo with RCA outs.

  • 5 weeks later...

Got mine from AliExpress and installed it on the weekend 🤯

got the latest Mark7 version.

i need to spend more time with it to give it a proper review . but the wireless android auto works really well. It's very fast and boots up to the reverse camera in about 3-4 sec after starting the car 👍 When it's already on it's like 1 sec.

Cameras look so shit 👎

  • Like 1

yes they "work" fine. Just like factory but they look shit. Kit came with a HD reverse camera upgrade but i was told if i install it i will lose the 360 camera. It's a small problem really.

Only real big problem is the Polarization on the screen is horizontal same as my sunglasses. So the screen is black when wearing my sunnies unless i turn my head to the side 😵 . so dumb!

Maybe it's a safety thing, My passenger can watch Netfilx while driving and i can't see it 👍

  • Haha 1

Glad that worked out for you. I think my Joyeauto one is coming this week but I won't get to install it til closer to end of October. Will update when I get around to it. Just standard CP and nothing else. Hopefully the cameras all work without needing to get out of CP and get back in as they advertised. My other worry is sound quality. Fingers crossed!

Edited by colin.ssc
  • 1 month later...

I have an older ZWNAV 12" in my v36 sedan. Best thing I ever did with it was ditch the stock launcher and install Nova Launcher from the play store.
I have the same issue with the screen & sunglasses. I remember reading on a message board somewhere that someone made a screen protector that fixes it. If I come across it again i'll post.

20240331_194743.jpg

  • Like 1
21 hours ago, awsam said:

....
I have the same issue with the screen & sunglasses. I remember reading on a message board somewhere that someone made a screen protector that fixes it. If I come across it again i'll post.

 

This is untested by me, however, its one of the weird but well known behaviours of polarisation and Quantum Physics, and may be able to be used here.

A simple way to check if sunglasses are polarised, is to take a pair of sunglasses you know are polarised, then hold the pair you want to test so that the lenses are at 90 deg, and when you look through the two lenses, it will be black. However, if you take a third pair and hold them at 45 deg and between the pair, looking through all three lenses will be almost clear. Weird, but supposedly true and it depends on the weird behaviours caused by quantum effects.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is there a way to adjust all of the pedals in an R32 GTS-T? they all sit even, but seem to be a little high for my liking.
    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
×
×
  • Create New...