Jump to content
SAU Community

Series 2 R33 GTST airbag light flashing - I've tried the usual fixes


Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I realise this has been covered lots but after trying a bunch of fixes my airbag light is still flashing :(

Things I've tried:

 

 

From Skyline owners: https://www.skylineowners.com/threads/airbag-warning-light.181475/

Key on door open
Key off
Key on
Hit the door pin switch 10 times

Another from Skyline owners:  https://www.skylineowners.com/threads/air-bag-light-fixed.29792/

1) Open the driver's side door.
2) Put the key in the ignition and turn to ON (but don't start the vehicle)
3) Within 7 seconds of turning the key to ON, push the driver's side door switch button at least 5 times.
4) The Air Bag light should go solid...give it at least 7 seconds, and it should begin to blink a 3 second, 2 second on/off pattern.
5) Turn ignition to OFF and remove key.
6) Start vehicle, and wait for the Air Bag light to turn off to verify that it worked.

Note that I have not touched the factory steering wheel! and the flashing airbag light started without making any changes to the car.

While trying the typical fixes above, I can get the airbag light to flash in the diagnostic sequence, but I don't know what the sequence means.

Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

cheers,

Mike

 

 

10 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Take it to an auto electrician. Plug in a diagnostic handset. Read the codes.

Thanks GTSBoy - I was thinking it was getting to that

 

Mike

cheers guys

I'm running an Apexi Power FC computer instead of factory and my 1997 R33 series 2 is pre OBD2.

I'm thinking any service person will need an Apexi Power FC hand controller or an FC DataLogit to access any codes on my vehicle?

Unfortunately, I don't have either an Apexi hand controller or Datalogit - and I'm guessing nor do most service people in Brisbane 🤥

My car has been previously tuned in Brisbane - I'm not sure I'd get them to tune/dyno the car again, but they can obviously connect to an Apexi Power FC...

...to read the air bag codes on my car, do I go back to the guys able to tune Apexi Power FC computers or is there a different option?

cheers,

Mike

 

 

26 minutes ago, mikel said:

I'm thinking any service person will need an Apexi Power FC hand controller or an FC DataLogit to access any codes on my vehicle?

No. My original advice

On 4/11/2024 at 6:40 AM, GTSBoy said:

Take it to an auto electrician. Plug in a diagnostic handset. Read the codes.

remains 100% valid. Evey single CU on the car s able to talk to a diagnostic handset plugged into the Consult port. No OBD. No problem. Has Consult.

PowerFC is not part of this equation. You want the codes from the SRS CU.

  • Like 1
48 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

No. My original advice

remains 100% valid. Evey single CU on the car s able to talk to a diagnostic handset plugged into the Consult port. No OBD. No problem. Has Consult.

PowerFC is not part of this equation. You want the codes from the SRS CU.

thanks GTSBoy

Actually I think you will probably still run into an issue as the consult connector is unusual and most workshops won't have that available (everything modern is OBD). It might require a trip to a friendly nissan dealer who does have the right connector (but may not be interested in helping).

Alternative is remove the airbag globe and disconnect the airbag computer, if that is legal

3 hours ago, Duncan said:

Actually I think you will probably still run into an issue as the consult connector is unusual and most workshops won't have that available (everything modern is OBD). It might require a trip to a friendly nissan dealer who does have the right connector (but may not be interested in helping).

Nah. Any decent third party diagnostics unit should be able to talk Consult and all the other non-OBD protocols from back in the day. It's only 25 years since OBD started taking over. There's many cars from that ear still on the road. My mechanic's diag terminal is plenty able to talk to the other CUs in my car. Well, those that are still present, anyway. That's probably only the HICAS CU, as there never was an ABS or TCS or SRS CU, and the TCU went in the bin 25 years ago.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Damn it, I was at work last night, and stayed in a room there during the storm with the car outside, but undercover, I just went downstairs and well....there was a large steel locker that has come from some place last night, it wasn't anywhere I could see yesterday, and yeap, it landed on the fraking car....of course it did..... LOL So, I'll need to take it back for paint and panel, luckily it was only the boot that took the hit, so it could have been worse Serves me right for staying at work and getting on the cans with some of the boys
    • Yeah, really happy with how it all turned out As for aftermarket lip, nah, I'm not really a fan for practically reasons on a street car that gets driven everywhere  I did have the full lower kit on my 2015 STI, but found the front lip scrapped alot, even at stock 4x4ish ride height As the NC sits now, with the lowest point of the car at 110mm, so just legal, some steep driveways and steep speed humps will still "just" scrap those little plastic OEM air dam thingies on the undertray just before the front wheels
    • Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
×
×
  • Create New...