Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

I had to chamge fuel pump due to car sitting for 10.years and went the 460. From memory it had the slightly smaller walbro in it previously. Running bosch 2200 injectors and a turbosmart compact fpr. Problem is no2 I can't get base pressure below 70psi. If I disconnect return line from fpr pressure drops indication restriction. I've inspected.the fuel line and removed the pipe on return line in tank and no chamge. Surely I'm not the only o e using stockings on a 460? Could the fpr be too small to handle the flow of new pump ? I'd like to sort it rather than going back.to smaller pump.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485437-walbro-460-in-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

You got your answer when everything was OK after disconnecting your return line from the FPR. Why in the world are you running a 460, 2200CC injectors, etc. on stock 8mm lines? 

Keep the pump, ditch the lines. I used both 8mm lines as my feed and one of my Hicas 10mm lines as return. 

Edited by TurboTapin

I'm trying to maintain stock appearance . Hicas is still installed (although has lockout kit) did you retain factory fuel pump hat? If so I assume you used a bulkhead fitting or similar ?  I was also trying to avoid a full re design as it was previously dynoed at 426kw atw with same setup but different pump. Changing return line would also mean having to change ethanol sensor and fpr and possibly fuel rail. Not chasing more power in any way just reliability of the setup 

I've been running a 525 for years with the standard hat and FPR in the stagea (mine has a 32 gtr fuel rail and stagea and 32 hat and tank setup are the same) without an issue with base fuel pressure.

You said when you disconnected the return it is OK, did you do so at the fuel rail or the fuel hat? Either way I'd be looking for blockages or in the case of the tank kinks in the lines downstream

Note I did however have an issue with the current required for the 460 melting the fuel hat.

10 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

 Why in the world are you running a 460, 2200CC injectors, etc. on stock 8mm lines? 

Keep the pump, ditch the lines. I used both 8mm lines as my feed and one of my Hicas 10mm lines as return. 

I run 2 x 525 pumps on factory 8mm fuel lines :P    ... zero issues, staged of course 

 

Your setup should work fine, all you need to do is find the restriction. A good aftermarket fuel regulator is always a good idea too. If it's not your regulator i'd be suspicious of your fuel tank breather and your tank pressurising. Next would be something with the fuel hat. Then blow out the fuel lines. 

 

  • Like 1

I disconnected before the fuel pump and restriction still there. Disconnected at turbosmart fpr and also after ethanol sensor and pressure dropped. No kinks in line but I found one spot above diff that I can hear the fuel flowing while running so I'm wondering if there is built up corrosion  from 10 years of sitting.  I had injectors cleaned and tested and one was dead but rest were fine. Was never an issue when I owned the car previously but I'll talk to jez about his thoughts on if they should be changed to newer tech. Thx guys at least I know the setup should work again. Pump is wired directly to relay and not using factory plug any  more 

14 minutes ago, portaz said:

Pump is wired directly to relay

And I hope the relay receives the trigger signal from the ECU and not the ignition power.

It should prime and stop if the motor isn't running.

33 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

And I hope the relay receives the trigger signal from the ECU and not the ignition power.

It should prime and stop if the motor isn't running.

Yep sure does . Comes on primes and cuts off as a factory pump would 

  • Like 1
On 4/19/2024 at 7:33 PM, Butters said:

I run 2 x 525 pumps on factory 8mm fuel lines :P    ... zero issues, staged of course 

 

Your setup should work fine, all you need to do is find the restriction. A good aftermarket fuel regulator is always a good idea too. If it's not your regulator i'd be suspicious of your fuel tank breather and your tank pressurising. Next would be something with the fuel hat. Then blow out the fuel lines. 

 

1x 8mm line cannot flow 525lph, let alone two pumps worth of it. Your first pump isn't being fully utilized and your second pump isn't doing anything at all.

 

 

Edited by TurboTapin
6 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

1x 8mm line cannot flow 525lph, let alone two pumps worth of it. Your first pump isn't being fully utilized and your second pump isn't doing anything at all.

 

I've read that before, really good article.

However my ~900hp+ at flywheel, means it can be done.

Also have tested it with one pump on only, does what you'd expect, near 700's flywheel.

No disagreement that i will have horrible pressure drop compared to what it would be on a bigger lines.  

I can also overwhelm the regulator / return line at low HP consumption with both on, but I don't do that, so no issue :) 

 

So horribly inefficient but it works really well for the 10 seconds or so the second pump is on. 

  • Like 1
14 hours ago, Butters said:

I've read that before, really good article.

However my ~900hp+ at flywheel, means it can be done.

Also have tested it with one pump on only, does what you'd expect, near 700's flywheel.

No disagreement that i will have horrible pressure drop compared to what it would be on a bigger lines.  

I can also overwhelm the regulator / return line at low HP consumption with both on, but I don't do that, so no issue :) 

 

So horribly inefficient but it works really well for the 10 seconds or so the second pump is on. 

I'm actually really impressed that you don't pop a pressure relief valve or find some other weak link in the system. This puts me at ease though, I want to run 5 bar differential at the injectors and flow enough for maybe 500 crank horsepower tops on E85. I'm really hoping that a single Fuelab 496 series pump will work for this.

1 hour ago, portaz said:

So I ran a new return line and upgraded in tank wiring to 6mm just in case and pressure is now adjustable thankfully. I may upgrade fuel.system down the  track but as its only 426kw atw that will.do for  now 

:cool:

what size was the return line?

  • 1 month later...
On 20/04/2024 at 8:33 AM, Butters said:

I run 2 x 525 pumps on factory 8mm fuel lines :P    ... zero issues, staged of course 

 

Your setup should work fine, all you need to do is find the restriction. A good aftermarket fuel regulator is always a good idea too. If it's not your regulator i'd be suspicious of your fuel tank breather and your tank pressurising. Next would be something with the fuel hat. Then blow out the fuel lines. 

 

How are you staging yours? I am running these 2.. and my fuel was heating up.. I had to stick a fan assisted cooler on the return.

4 hours ago, Predator1 said:

How are you staging yours? I am running these 2.. and my fuel was heating up.. I had to stick a fan assisted cooler on the return.

It's 2024, just PWM them instead of staging.

If OEMs are PWM, then you should too, especially with all the fancy ECUs on the market.

FWIW even my shit box with a mediocre ECU has PWM fuel pumps set up to ramp up and down with RPM x MAP.

On 4/22/2024 at 8:35 AM, joshuaho96 said:

I'm actually really impressed that you don't pop a pressure relief valve or find some other weak link in the system. This puts me at ease though, I want to run 5 bar differential at the injectors and flow enough for maybe 500 crank horsepower tops on E85. I'm really hoping that a single Fuelab 496 series pump will work for this.

If both pumps are only on at full tilt, and even better if he reduces the output of one pump with he other off for idle etc, then when both pumps are on for full tilt power, the injectors are diverting the fuel away from the fuel return line to a much nicer location, which will help keep fuel pressure lower as there's not a blockage/build up of liquid.

9 hours ago, Predator1 said:

How are you staging yours? I am running these 2.. and my fuel was heating up.. I had to stick a fan assisted cooler on the return.

using a map with TPS and duty cycle with a slight delay on the off. 

The second pump only really needs to come on when flat out. 

 

5 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

It's 2024, just PWM them instead of staging.

 

PWM is interesting, are you using a solid state relay ?

9 hours ago, Butters said:

PWM is interesting, are you using a solid state relay ?

Correct, I used to run 1x SSR for both pumps, but the inner OCD in me wanted 1x SSR per pump, so here we are :D 

image.thumb.png.53d63e2a478341f01c245a3f6e17981d.png

Flyback diodes built into the harness

image.thumb.png.912c5e79f6d7e57fb4df253d4a9f8a92.png

image.thumb.png.2d287a3e2bfea574f3184f0270908ba5.png

 

Here's my DC table

image.thumb.png.86e58259f9246a6a99712008df28173a.png

  • Like 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Those car show concepts from the 2000's and 2010's like the Floria and IDx were brilliant and should've gone ahead, at least one of them. But neither Honda nor Nissan are thinking about affordable performance any more, which is truly sad.  Even if Toyota's liquid hydrogen ICE development reaches the point where it's commercially viable and the infrastructure to support it, Honda/Nissan would have to wait until Toyota allow fee access to their patents to offer it with any smaller performance models they released to take advantage of it.  
    • A sporty manual RWD coupe with a IL4 Honda engine would only be a good thing I assume we won't see anything released for a few years though, unless informal talks and designs have been going on for a few years,  and due to the current, and future, emmisions and safety requirements, I assume anything "sporty" they would do would be at least some hybrid thingie And hopefully anything they are thinking of has nice lines, without lots of plastic and fake bits hanging off it like that horrendous FK8 that looked like it was designed by a 13 year old The other issue of course in the current market is cost, currently the type R is around $70k, a twin is around $50k Meh, I'm old and grumpy and would rather buy a older model car and waste my coin on that than buying anything currently available new  
    • Nissan needs to forget about building SUVs in every size possible and bring back the damn Silvia/200sx duo to compete with the 86/brz. Maybe with the Honda type r motor pointing the right way
    • Good to see you followed your heart, got your dream car and have it pretty well sorted out now. I think anyone can get caught out with a seller not being 100% honest about a cars problems. Can relate to all the electrical issues, had similar issues with my first car (mk2 escort) ages ago
    • I just bought the Nexus S3 for my gtt, haven’t installed it yet as I’m collecting parts to do everything at once…so far spent $14,000 The Nexus is nearly future proof
×
×
  • Create New...