Jump to content
SAU Community

Any help appreciated


Recommended Posts

On 24/4/2024 at 8:16 AM, Duncan said:

You might be able to find the engine number (if about it hasn't been painted over....) the prefix should be rb25 or rb20

Would it be easier to remove the turbo manifold?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 24/4/2024 at 11:06 AM, WMDC35 said:

It's most likely a 25, has vct and alloy cas, only 20 neo has vct but would have plastic cas 

Okay guess what I found the block print has RB25 on it stupid f**ks literally has orange over spray on it it has a VCT Drain…so that rules out a neo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 24/4/2024 at 8:16 AM, Duncan said:

You might be able to find the engine number (if about it hasn't been painted over....) the prefix should be rb25 or rb20

Gave  a nice look has RB25 but had orange spray over it and block is stamped 

“JAPAN” 75T which I’ve searched and it’s an rb25det block and no igniter on coil pack soo am I safe to assume it’s a S2 RB25DET..with a RB26 Intake plenum? I’ll be going for a plazmaman or a diff intake plenum kit suited for an rb25det can that give me a headache? If I leave the 26 on? Can that be the reason it’s running shit I’m happy to pay $$ for information on building it properly with a nice aeroflow 6262 .84 T4 turbo (either 50mm wastegate or 2x44mm wastegate 🤷🏻‍♂️ I was planning on forging the rods / pistons / tomei valve springs , Cams , e85 / flex  respray the whole car and a Rocket Bunny kit and a nice set of coilovers, link ecu? Or are there better ones for cheaper that can handle what I want & I heard these motors are good stock to push 400-500hp? Unless I read wrong  (But the way these retards painted it I think it’s safer to build the motor ground up as I want to run the 5-600hp mark figure 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And I found out these r32 coupes are rare with a sunroof? And omg guys you should see the interior you guys will cry definitely going to do a overhaul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Re trying to identify what it might (or might not be) a bit better, can you post up some good clear pics of the plenum and where it is bolted to the throttles/intake manifold/whatever is there.

An rb26 inlet manifold does not bolt straight onto an rb25 head due to different port placement/shapes, so there is either some sort of adapter plate, or it is a 26 head 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, R32.RB said:

Can that be the reason it’s running shit

Most likely it's tuning related.

That plenum is fine, moving to a Plazmaman you won't notice much of a difference.

If you want supreme low down, better off with the stock intake manifold & plenum OR the Rajab top half.

A Precision or Turbosmart 6262 is too big for what you want, and big boost with Tomei Valve springs also a fail.

You can make 373kW on a stock motor with just head studs, sensible timing in the mid range and it will last for your intended purposes (won't last on the track for too long).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Duncan said:

Re trying to identify what it might (or might not be) a bit better, can you post up some good clear pics of the plenum and where it is bolted to the throttles/intake manifold/whatever is there.

An rb26 inlet manifold does not bolt straight onto an rb25 head due to different port placement/shapes, so there is either some sort of adapter plate, or it is a 26 head 

To me it just looks like an rb25 Freddy plenum.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Duncan said:

Re trying to identify what it might (or might not be) a bit better, can you post up some good clear pics of the plenum and where it is bolted to the throttles/intake manifold/whatever is there.

An rb26 inlet manifold does not bolt straight onto an rb25 head due to different port placement/shapes, so there is either some sort of adapter plate, or it is a 26 head 

https://postimg.cc/gallery/mLzg1Pm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, UWISSH! said:

To me it just looks like an rb25 Freddy plenum.

IMG_6488.thumb.jpeg.02bb195285bbf54073380cd0083dd74b.jpegIMG_6490.thumb.jpeg.2da5d96bd206f232a4f79ab16734c22c.jpegIMG_6492.thumb.jpeg.2d8307755b0e79d5fcd1b44b1bbae6a4.jpegIMG_6489.thumb.jpeg.661d8636af37098f742a7d972607c10b.jpegIMG_6487.thumb.jpeg.3d17b886ea0da76ac84abed1e3f09c05.jpegIMG_6485.thumb.jpeg.76000df437f27273c8451f6d14c10d94.jpegIMG_6486.thumb.jpeg.08d0b073b4f9f953e9cc4c9ca87e7149.jpegIMG_6491.thumb.jpeg.0601f41adbf53780d0465c629f905534.jpegIMG_6482.thumb.jpeg.8e1eb7e2de60c370559f58ffea7658a6.jpeg

Wasn’t sure if you guys trusted me with my links so I figured it out

IMG_6485.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Duncan said:

Re trying to identify what it might (or might not be) a bit better, can you post up some good clear pics of the plenum and where it is bolted to the throttles/intake manifold/whatever is there.

An rb26 inlet manifold does not bolt straight onto an rb25 head due to different port placement/shapes, so there is either some sort of adapter plate, or it is a 26 head 

Yes I Was reading that up, some places are doing those adapter / weld on ones, and blitz ones are out of production im totally unsure but I have definitely just uploaded pics hope this helps thanks 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, R32.RB said:

Is a Freddy a fake Greddy?

It is, and you do. Everything points at it being a series 2 non NEO rb25. Of course, unknown internals so you don't know how hard you can push the setup.  If you can get hold of a borescope you could check the top of the pistons for stock or aftermarket markings, but that still won't tell you want rods you have which is arguably more important for  higher power

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Duncan said:

It is, and you do. Everything points at it being a series 2 non NEO rb25. Of course, unknown internals so you don't know how hard you can push the setup.  If you can get hold of a borescope you could check the top of the pistons for stock or aftermarket markings, but that still won't tell you want rods you have which is arguably more important for  higher power

Yeah ofc, as the car sat for a while I have no problems just going to buy a whole new pistons , rods , cams etc 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Duncan said:

It is, and you do. Everything points at it being a series 2 non NEO rb25. Of course, unknown internals so you don't know how hard you can push the setup.  If you can get hold of a borescope you could check the top of the pistons for stock or aftermarket markings, but that still won't tell you want rods you have which is arguably more important for  higher power

Sorry when you mean I do, do you mean I’ve got a Freddy one?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

55 minutes ago, R32.RB said:

Freddy one?

Fake GReddy = Freddy

 

  

1 hour ago, R32.RB said:

Yes I Was reading that up, some places are doing those adapter / weld on ones, and blitz ones are out of production im totally unsure but I have definitely just uploaded pics hope this helps thanks 

Don't waste your money, money better spent on good engine management, modern injectors, drive by wire (so you can delete all that cable throttle, idle control valve junk).

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Fake GReddy = Freddy

 

  

Don't waste your money, money better spent on good engine management, modern injectors, drive by wire (so you can delete all that cable throttle, idle control valve junk).

 

No no no im

not going to buy that junk I was assuming that’s what’s on the motor I would love a forward facing plenum, maybe a plenum for rb25det and a 90mm throttle body

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?    
    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
    • So, to run the 4g aerials to the booster, I had to get access to the rear bulkhead....bit of a mission. Hot tip, don't offer to help change the rear shocks for a mate with a v37.... Remove seat base, 2 clips that slide forward to release it the it lifts straight out Fold down rear seat (pull in from boot) The side bolster of the rear seat is not connected to the middle parts that fold. To remove unbolt at the bottom bolt then push it up off the top hook Then there is a plastic surround behind the seat back, 2 pop out clips, 2 bastard clips, some swearing at it is out Pop the rear seat latch surround off Remove door surround lower trim then side trim  Remove c pillar trim - 4 clips, pull inwards not forwards Remove metal brace - 5 bolts 1 nut Then you have got to the rear strut top...what a pain!
×
×
  • Create New...