Jump to content
SAU Community

Manual Shifter slightly bounces/moves/vibrates when accelerating/deaccelerating

Doug 98 R34 GTT
 Share

Recommended Posts

Doug 98 R34 GTT Newbie

Doug 98 R34 GTT

Posted
Posted

New R34 owned here (from the US) and found a gem, '98 GTT with ~6k miles, super clean & completely stock.

When shifting there's no grinding, shifts smooth, etc. The concern I have are 2 things:

1) Only in 2nd and 3rd... when maintaining a slower speed (in traffic as an example) as I let off/on the gas, the shifter will slightly move and vibrate. If the clutch is engaged, none of this happens. It's not bad, but enough to feel like something isn't necessarily right.

2) This mainly happen in 4th or 5th... the shifter slightly bounces up and down, almost like it's riding on unbalanced tires (and I do think the tires are unbalanced as I get a little of that bounce feel at higher speeds, which is maybe why it only happens in 4th/5th).

Lastly, and sorry for this noob question but I want to work on this car myself, can someone teach me some on these manual transmissions? Like servicing them, best products to use, etc.; would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Congratulations on your find :) Did you mean it has 6k miles or was that a typo?

Firstly, keep in mind some movement of the shifter is normal...it is a long rod hanging out of a box bolted to the engine. Having said that there are 2 next places to look:

1. Transmission and engine mounts. If these are worn or broken the shifter will move around more. They are reasonably easy to source and replace on a hoist, and possible but uncomfortable to replace car stands

2. On the bottom of the shifter there is a nylon cup that sits over shifter's ball end. If this is worn or broken the shifter will move around more than it should (but will still shift OK). That is a cheap part and requires removal of centre console, rubber shifter hole covers and a circlip in the gearbox shifter hole to remove the shifter.

Re maintenance, as with any new import you should change all the fluids including transmission when you get it; never trust the seller and previous owners to have done the right thing. I am pretty sure R34 GTT is the same as earlier big box transmissions, so use any good quality GL4 75w90 trans fluid if it is shifting well (if it is hard to shift due to synchro wear, redline shockproof lightweight will keep it alive a bit longer before rebuild is required)

  • Thanks 1
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I'm going to have to call shenanigans on the 6000 miles. There haven't been any R34s with 10000km on the ODO since the mid 2000s. Photos of the pedal rubbers, seats, carpets, etc required to even consider the possibility. At that many miles the underside should look almost completely new.

The movement of the gear stick is likely to be 100% normal. As Duncan said, the differences from an auto may be surprising. It is a mechanical thing, not an electro-hydraulic isolation device.

  • Thanks 1
Doug 98 R34 GTT Newbie

Doug 98 R34 GTT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you both, much appreciated. Yes, 6k miles, not a typo lol. The underside, engine bay, engine, trunk, interior, etc., look great and super clean, has all the splash guards too. Not sure if you can expand the photos, but the dash pic shows the ODO. She looks brand new, inside and out, even has the original Nissan TV/DVD/Nav head unit; still thinks it's in Tokyo haha! I used to own a '94 MKIV Supra, sadly sold it years ago, but wow I love the Skyline so much! The R34 gets SO much attention here since they just became legal to import last year.

R34-2.pngR34-7.pngR34-4.png

R34-5.pngR34-3.pngR34-6.png

R34-Miles.pngR34-trunk.png

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      High temp brake fluid?

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Duncan
      First/Second Post

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • svenskalice
      First/Second Post

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • svenskalice
      Kaizo Industries

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • believer
      HKS Vcam Step Pro Issues

      By believer · Posted

      I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...