Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

Has anyone experienced their signal light being constantly on when parking or headlights are on?

 

I'm putting my car back together after painting. I didn't pull out the hole chassis harness.

I hooked up the chassis harness in the bay along with semi-installing a new ecu harness.

 

I put power to the car today to play some musicand check on thing while I worked.

I noticed when I put on the parking lights that the left rear signal was constantly on. I thought for whatever reason. All the signal light needed to be install. The rear left signal did turn off after all the other signal bulbs where installed, but now the other 4 are lit. The left 2 are brighter than the right. I noticed that if u pull out the front left bulb them the left rear turns back on.

Strange.

Hazards work fine. Activating the signal from the stalk works. I unplugged the signal stalk power to see if that may have been the issue. Removed the fuse for the signals and they stay on constant but not blink.

 

I have LED 194/T10 bulbs. They're not switchback.

Things worked as normal before I took thing apart and painted. The only new things I wired were two removed leads to my fuel pump relays.

 

Could it be the stalks? I bumped them plenty while working. Just from today I assessed them good and no flickering from contact on so it's hard to say it's the stalks.

 

The issue somewhere in the chassis harness?

 

 

20240504_205943.jpg

20240504_205949.jpg

Did some more messing around with this issue.

I think the stalk is the problem. i wiggled it around a bit. When i went to put the signal up for a left turn, all the signals blinked lol.

I'm gonna try and clean the tarnish off the copper and see if that works.

this still doesnt explain why the left side/fronts are constant on ACC/On after i pulled the stalk. may be a ground from the stalk thats causing it.

IDKkKkKk. I'll report back

Are you sure you can use LEDs in the indicator lamps? On a car that old? It doesn't work on many old cars because the indicator relay can't cope with the wrong impedance out at the lamp positions and the LEDs will happily light up even with minimal current flowing through the indicator relay.

And when I say "indicator relay" I mean the flasher, not a relay relay.

Beyond that, I would say that you have caused yourself a wiring fault and that you would be well advised to work through the wiring diagram and the actual loom with a multimeter.

  • Like 2
3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Are you sure you can use LEDs in the indicator lamps? On a car that old? It doesn't work on many old cars because the indicator relay can't cope with the wrong impedance out at the lamp positions and the LEDs will happily light up even with minimal current flowing through the indicator relay.

And when I say "indicator relay" I mean the flasher, not a relay relay.

Beyond that, I would say that you have caused yourself a wiring fault and that you would be well advised to work through the wiring diagram and the actual loom with a multimeter.

I've had these LEDs and a LED EP34 flasher relay in the car since 2020.

No fuses were popped either.

I'll multimeter and clean off the tarnish tomorrow. From how the lights were acting after I diddle the stick make me lean towards a stalk problem.

23 minutes ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

From how the lights were acting after I diddle the stick make me lean towards a stalk problem

That would be a rarity.

You can emulate the function of the stalk just by bridging the appropriate pins in the connector. If you can make it function correctly by doing so, then the wiring etc is OK and it is the stalk.

  • Like 1

SOLVED

 

simple solution.

After wrecking by brain, i ended up jist giggling everything i could.

At one point last week I noticed that the left side signals shut off for a split second. I wasn't sure what triggered it.

I spent time cleaning up wiring, re-wrapping and adding DT connectors to my IC7 stuff.

I bought a new hazard and stalk hoping that would work. The stalk did fix some function issue but not the steady on. Hazard didn't fix it.

I started just tracing everything. Once I got to the engine bay I notice my engine harness was droopy. I started moving it and the signals flickered. Come to find out that the starter + turned off sigmals when it grounded out on a bolt

I have a Wiring Specialties pro harness so I'm not sure if this is specific to it.

So it should work proper once I hook everything up

 

Edited by SLVRBAKSLPZ
On 5/11/2024 at 7:50 PM, GTSBoy said:

That is a dead f**king short of B+ to ground. Scary.

Yeah I'm terrible with understanding wiring. Outside of being given install instructions, I have a hard time deciphering diagrams and terminology.

I have the wiring manual and its all hieroglyphs lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Strangely I noticed it either disappear later in the day, or not be present. I definitely noticed when I was crawling around that open wheel thingy entering the pits (that part was audible in car). Driving home and commuting around town for example, I didn't hear it. It's plausible that it was a brake disc or something still slightly in contact. The brakes absolutely felt BAD for the first couple of sessions, huge amounts of shudder and grinding as they got up to temp - And then I actually just forgot about it as the day went on/didn't notice it. The videos were from the morning when this was more present than the afternoon/drive home when it wasn't. I've asked around and got a variety of responses including handbrake shoe contacting hub, CV joints, CB tailshaft bearing as above, and clutch input bearing. I didn't test if it disappeared when clutch was in. I haven't noticed it in any of the other videos nor did I notice it when driving to that extent. More or less hoping the microphone at the rear license plate giving some kind of clue of 'something' but it looks like "spin stuff and see if you can notice it" is the way forward here. I could be smart and use the gopro mic and re-mount it to that location to see if the sound is still present at low speed actually. Sounds like a decent test whenver I have the CBF'ness to drive the car again. Given it's almost 40C for the day of the track day and the next 3 days after, the CBF is high. All I've done since getting home is unpack the car, remove the remnants of the lip and undertray and left it there. I was surprised how well the PMU Club Racers actually worked. The brake performance on the track was absolutely fantastic, best I've ever personally used, no fade whatsoever and the bitiness was almost too good, I was scrubbing more speed off than I needed to, but I also ended up infield when I started trying to scrape off ... less speed.... so...
    • Not really, no. Anything you would do is easily reversible.
    • I would like more noise related info for my truly uneducated guess  Does it do it at idle or when revving, clutch engaged, and disengaged? Does it only do it when the car is moving? I've heard "similar" noises from a clutch pack that left the chat room, and CV joints that have chewed themselves out But as Matt said, how's the yokes, tailshaft and centre bearing going after their last little issue Fingers crossed it is something simple  Weird noises make me cringe 
    • One other question, is there a chance that changing the idle speed can lead you down a rabbit hole and is the reason the tuner didn't touch it? Reason I ask is because if that's the reason the tuner avoided it then I probably shouldn't be touching it lol.
    • Pfft. As if I'd ever point a high pressure washer at my car.
×
×
  • Create New...