Jump to content
SAU Community

In Need if Help with Signal lights: Constant on

SLVRBAKSLPZ
 Share

Recommended Posts

SLVRBAKSLPZ Collaborator

SLVRBAKSLPZ

Posted
Posted

Hello,

Has anyone experienced their signal light being constantly on when parking or headlights are on?

 

I'm putting my car back together after painting. I didn't pull out the hole chassis harness.

I hooked up the chassis harness in the bay along with semi-installing a new ecu harness.

 

I put power to the car today to play some musicand check on thing while I worked.

I noticed when I put on the parking lights that the left rear signal was constantly on. I thought for whatever reason. All the signal light needed to be install. The rear left signal did turn off after all the other signal bulbs where installed, but now the other 4 are lit. The left 2 are brighter than the right. I noticed that if u pull out the front left bulb them the left rear turns back on.

Strange.

Hazards work fine. Activating the signal from the stalk works. I unplugged the signal stalk power to see if that may have been the issue. Removed the fuse for the signals and they stay on constant but not blink.

 

I have LED 194/T10 bulbs. They're not switchback.

Things worked as normal before I took thing apart and painted. The only new things I wired were two removed leads to my fuel pump relays.

 

Could it be the stalks? I bumped them plenty while working. Just from today I assessed them good and no flickering from contact on so it's hard to say it's the stalks.

 

The issue somewhere in the chassis harness?

 

 

20240504_205943.jpg

20240504_205949.jpg

SLVRBAKSLPZ Collaborator

SLVRBAKSLPZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Did some more messing around with this issue.

I think the stalk is the problem. i wiggled it around a bit. When i went to put the signal up for a left turn, all the signals blinked lol.

I'm gonna try and clean the tarnish off the copper and see if that works.

this still doesnt explain why the left side/fronts are constant on ACC/On after i pulled the stalk. may be a ground from the stalk thats causing it.

IDKkKkKk. I'll report back

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Are you sure you can use LEDs in the indicator lamps? On a car that old? It doesn't work on many old cars because the indicator relay can't cope with the wrong impedance out at the lamp positions and the LEDs will happily light up even with minimal current flowing through the indicator relay.

And when I say "indicator relay" I mean the flasher, not a relay relay.

Beyond that, I would say that you have caused yourself a wiring fault and that you would be well advised to work through the wiring diagram and the actual loom with a multimeter.

  • Like 2
SLVRBAKSLPZ Collaborator

SLVRBAKSLPZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Are you sure you can use LEDs in the indicator lamps? On a car that old? It doesn't work on many old cars because the indicator relay can't cope with the wrong impedance out at the lamp positions and the LEDs will happily light up even with minimal current flowing through the indicator relay.

And when I say "indicator relay" I mean the flasher, not a relay relay.

Beyond that, I would say that you have caused yourself a wiring fault and that you would be well advised to work through the wiring diagram and the actual loom with a multimeter.

I've had these LEDs and a LED EP34 flasher relay in the car since 2020.

No fuses were popped either.

I'll multimeter and clean off the tarnish tomorrow. From how the lights were acting after I diddle the stick make me lean towards a stalk problem.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
23 minutes ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

From how the lights were acting after I diddle the stick make me lean towards a stalk problem

That would be a rarity.

You can emulate the function of the stalk just by bridging the appropriate pins in the connector. If you can make it function correctly by doing so, then the wiring etc is OK and it is the stalk.

  • Like 1
SLVRBAKSLPZ Collaborator

SLVRBAKSLPZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

SOLVED

 

simple solution.

After wrecking by brain, i ended up jist giggling everything i could.

At one point last week I noticed that the left side signals shut off for a split second. I wasn't sure what triggered it.

I spent time cleaning up wiring, re-wrapping and adding DT connectors to my IC7 stuff.

I bought a new hazard and stalk hoping that would work. The stalk did fix some function issue but not the steady on. Hazard didn't fix it.

I started just tracing everything. Once I got to the engine bay I notice my engine harness was droopy. I started moving it and the signals flickered. Come to find out that the starter + turned off sigmals when it grounded out on a bolt

I have a Wiring Specialties pro harness so I'm not sure if this is specific to it.

So it should work proper once I hook everything up

 

Edited by SLVRBAKSLPZ
SLVRBAKSLPZ Collaborator

SLVRBAKSLPZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 5/11/2024 at 7:50 PM, GTSBoy said:

That is a dead f**king short of B+ to ground. Scary.

Yeah I'm terrible with understanding wiring. Outside of being given install instructions, I have a hard time deciphering diagrams and terminology.

I have the wiring manual and its all hieroglyphs lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
    • eli995
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By eli995 · Posted

      Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
    • eli995
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By eli995 · Posted

    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v.  I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access
×
×
  • Create New...