Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I have a ECR33 97 model. Engine has a cracked ring land. Would it better to rebuild the series 2, or buy a second hand AWD 25det Neo from Japan from ~$3500 tidy it up a bit with new seals and so forth and use that? 

I'm leaning more towards the NEO option but understandably they're very old engines too now, so could be just buying problems. Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485492-rebuild-vs-second-hand-neo/
Share on other sites

An excellent question. Both answers are correct.

I think the reality is that any Neo you get from Japan may well be the same as any other engine that has spent too many years in Japan. That being the problem of low to zero maintenance and oil changes, etc etc. So any Neo you get from Japan should be considered to be sufficiently risky to warrant planning to pull it apart and rebuild it anyway. That's a significant extra $3.5k impost on top of doing the same to your S2 engine, and the question has to be asked, would you rather have the (somewhat small) betterness of the Neo for $3.5k, or would you rather spend up to $3.5k on even better betternesses for the S2? New ECU? Better triggering? Better oil pump, sump, cam covers, etc?

6 hours ago, Blakeo said:

I'm leaning more towards the NEO option

I would avoid the AWD motor in a RWD using a modified RWD sump and pickup.

The way the pick up is positioned, you'll have oil pick up issues on hard acceleration on a track around bends.

Even with a baffled, gated sump.

I suppose if you don't race on a track and it's used for straight line activities or street use you might be ok.

  • Like 1
5 hours ago, admS15 said:

I vote for rebuilding current RB. At least you'll know exactly what condition your engine is in afterwards and no future unpleasant surprises. 

Best option, at least it's not an engine lottery.

These NEO motors are close to 30 years old, they're doing ok.

  • Like 1
15 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I would avoid the AWD motor in a RWD using a modified RWD sump and pickup.

The way the pick up is positioned, you'll have oil pick up issues on hard acceleration on a track around bends.

Even with a baffled, gated sump.

I suppose if you don't race on a track and it's used for straight line activities or street use you might be ok.

Yeah, better just to cut the diff off the awd sump and grind down the fins on the bottom.

  • Like 1
13 hours ago, niZmO_Man said:

Yep, back in the day when you could pick up a Stagea RB25 NEO for $1,500 it was worth it. These days... just chuck your V8 or B58 in.

If you're going to go v8 or really any swap now with all the tax, I'd most likely just get rid of the car and start with something else. Unfortunately, I have a mate with a surplus of ls and Ferrari/Maserati v8's that's always tempting me FFS lol.

  • Like 1

Or buy one someone built earlier! ;)

(realistically V8 mustangs or MKV supras are great).

I see people nowadays putting ZF8's into MK4's, and people putting 370z gearboxes, diffs, axles into R and S chassis and it's like.... just get a 370z at that point and mildly boost the 3.7 instead of the 2L and away we go...

My vote is rebuild s2 engine or maybe get a neo (but expect you may need to rebuild that too).

Doing an engine conversion you would have to be a true tragic nowadays and actively be aware there's better/smarter options for value.

10-15 years ago, the answer would always be buy a good import motor and so many machine shops make.a hash of an engine rebuild, or they think they are some sort of RB magicians and want 40k.   

 

Now as others have stated, you are buying a VERY old used motor. So rebuild is the correct answer. 

Just finding a machine shop that will both do a good job and charge you a regular price is now your challenge. 

On 5/10/2024 at 9:47 PM, niZmO_Man said:

Yep, back in the day when you could pick up a Stagea RB25 NEO for $1,500 it was worth it. These days... just chuck your V8 or B58 in.

The complexities involved with getting a v8 swap done, and the sacrifices for clearance etc not worth it imo unless its a drift car or similar. 

What if I told you it fit easier than the RB...... ;)

Realistically it's a lot of work, but suprisingly similar IF you didn't have a R33 with literally all of the supporting accessories and electronics and manifolds and cooling ready to go.

If you had literally a bare engine bay and no transmission, it'd be an apt comparison to make. If you just want to make 280-300kw all day just rebuild the RB and get a modern turbo and enjoy life.

38 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

What if I told you it fit easier than the RB...... ;)

Realistically it's a lot of work, but suprisingly similar IF you didn't have a R33 with literally all of the supporting accessories and electronics and manifolds and cooling ready to go.

If you had literally a bare engine bay and no transmission, it'd be an apt comparison to make. If you just want to make 280-300kw all day just rebuild the RB and get a modern turbo and enjoy life.

Yeah I understand what you mean, but the LS swaps I've seen done to r33s (admittedly to drift cars). You have to hammer out the transmission tunnel to fit the t56/tr6060, cut and box the drifters side firewall for head clearance. All stuff that's not terrible, but don't want to do to my cleanish gtst. 

I've decided to buy the NEO and rebuild it, maybe best of both options lol.

  • Confused 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not stock. All remade. Mostly looks stock because the pipes run to and from the standard holes in the inner guard to get to the return flow FMIC. I'm not sure which question you're trying to ask, because it seems like "stock position" vs "stock position".
    • Hey, it's a GT-R, it's just as significant a moment as mine😁 It's not ideal when things are uncertain; I'm the type of person that always has a set plan for things in life so being unsure of this plan puts me in a weird place mentally.
    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card style AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had no flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
×
×
  • Create New...