Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The 4WD version is harder to find so I compared the parts diagrams of the two https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/whc34/5414-rb20de/engine/172/17453/ and https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/287-rb26dett/engine/172/17201/ seems like the same part is called out: 17201...what with WHC34 tank work?

You certainly can use a WGNC34 tank in a R32 GTR, they are different part numbers but functionally identical. I have some pics comparing them in the last few pages of my Stagea build thread

BTW you can't trust the same part code "17201" to say it is identical, you need to use the VIN to get the 17201-xxxxx part number to be sure from a FAST point of view. Even then of course there are examples like this where there are 2 part numbers but they are interchangeable. 

1 hour ago, Sbluatx said:

The 4WD version is harder to find so I compared the parts diagrams of the two https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/whc34/5414-rb20de/engine/172/17453/ and https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/287-rb26dett/engine/172/17201/ seems like the same part is called out: 17201...what with WHC34 tank work?

Putting aside the part where they are in fact interchangeable you need to know that Nissan part numbers don't work the way you think they work. The first half of the part number just means it's the same kind of part (fuel tank). The second half is what determines the specifics of that part. For example R32 GTR specific parts or something that originated with an R32 GTR is often 05U00. R33 GTR specific parts are often 24U00.

Before you replace the tank, removed it and check all of the breather hoses and the seal for the level sender unit. I just bought all the hoses for mine because that was what I found after removing the tank 

  • Like 1
5 hours ago, Duncan said:

You certainly can use a WGNC34 tank in a R32 GTR, they are different part numbers but functionally identical. I have some pics comparing them in the last few pages of my Stagea build thread

BTW you can't trust the same part code "17201" to say it is identical, you need to use the VIN to get the 17201-xxxxx part number to be sure from a FAST point of view. Even then of course there are examples like this where there are 2 part numbers but they are interchangeable. 

Thanks - to be sure will the WHC34 work?  I can’t find the other one anywhere.  Thanks 

Is WHC34 a 2 wheel drive Stagea?  4wd Stagea 100% fits, and I'd say 99% sure 2wd will too....they just used the GTR setup as that best suited the wagon floor.

BTW I hope you saw Brett's post about potential reasons for a leak, unless you can see the plastic cracked somewhere, it is unlikely to be the tank itself leaking.  Can you see fuel dripping or is it just a smell when you park? Have you had any of the tank/pump holder apart?

4 hours ago, Duncan said:

Is WHC34 a 2 wheel drive Stagea?  4wd Stagea 100% fits, and I'd say 99% sure 2wd will too....they just used the GTR setup as that best suited the wagon floor.

BTW I hope you saw Brett's post about potential reasons for a leak, unless you can see the plastic cracked somewhere, it is unlikely to be the tank itself leaking.  Can you see fuel dripping or is it just a smell when you park? Have you had any of the tank/pump holder apart?

16 hours ago, Sbluatx said:

Yes is 2nd.  The tank is cracked. 

Thanks for jumping in guys, suggested @Sbluatx post here for help. Was hoping one of the guys with a RWD stages could confirm if the tank was the same as the AWD one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Are those 1000cc side feeds? If so, that's part of your problem. I have 1480cc and they idle at stoich on 98RON, and all the way to E85. Also your coil packs.....
    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
×
×
  • Create New...