Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I've just bit the bullet on a forged rebuild for my 25det looking at making 600rwhp with the built engine. Having always been a butthurt for big brakes, I'd like to upgrade the fronts. I have looked at a few different websites, not have really stood out to me. What are some good quality front brakes, are the Attkd ones any good? 

 

Thanks. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485540-big-brake-kit-for-ecr33/
Share on other sites

hey mate so i was in a similar position needing something better than oem for track but also wanting it to look the part, i went for APG APG Performance Brakes they are a solid price and i have had no issues with any of the components from them. the rotors and pads can be swapped out for all the usual brands just ensure you are getting the right sizes. i have just a front kit on my car. i would recommend upgrading to a bigger master cylinder as they are a bigger calliper so you can actually notice some increased braking performance 

IMG_20210206_115418_422.jpg

What are you doing with the car? Drags, sprints, racing?

A decent upgrade of dba 4000 rotors, good quality pads (endless, project mu, intima are all I have used), quality fluid and braided lines. All have held up to multiple big track days and street duties. No need for big fancy kits as some also require significant energy to come upto operating temp.

Look at 350z caliper and rotor upgrade too.  @Dose Pipe Sutututu comment on them and did a good write up.

  • Like 2
19 hours ago, Blakeo said:

Hi guys, I've just bit the bullet on a forged rebuild for my 25det looking at making 600rwhp with the built engine. Having always been a butthurt for big brakes, I'd like to upgrade the fronts. I have looked at a few different websites, not have really stood out to me. What are some good quality front brakes, are the Attkd ones any good? 

 

Thanks. 

I'm about to sell my Attakd kit actually, so if you want a budget 2nd hand kit they definitely do work, though make sure you update your BMC when/if you do.

Just keep in mind that buying pads (for any aftermarket kit) can be a bit more complicated when you have an aftermarket caliper. Not all brands make pads in the shapes and sizes you may want, no matter what you end up with.

Really comes down to user requirements, I have found my 324mm 350Z Brembo front set up more than sufficient for track use, especially for Wakefield Park with good brake pads.

At Sydney Motorsport Park the GP Circuit can be a bit taxing on the braking system, I find by the 3rd hot lap there's rapid degradation in braking performance but at that point non semi slick tyres are about to give up anyway. And yes, the brakes are effective, slowing me down from 230km/h+ each time going into turn 1.

Street use, it's more than enough for street activities.

Most of the time people complain their brakes aren't sufficient, it's due to incorrect bleeding, poor choice of friction material, or faulty master cylinders.

TBH it's almost always due to inaccurate/misinterpreted use case, but this is not just brakes, it's everything.

Dose's above post would be unacceptably shit, in my experience. When I say "track day performance" I mean 30 minutes of continuous hot lap braking with no cooldowns, no fade, no letting up.

Your use case is paramount when selecting... well... anything.

  • Like 3
1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:

Your use case is paramount when selecting... well... anything

This!

Hence I always start off with user requirements in any kind of post recommending anything.

If the car was doing endurance racing, no fking way the Brembos would be sufficient. But for a street car, casual SMSP squirt, 5 lap Wakefield Park warrior, it's more than enough.

  • Like 1

The ATTKD and similar kits are a good thing for street and light track use like Dose is saying. I think they are good value as they replace everything. 

Rob's suggestion of upgrading standard parts can absolutely work as these cars came with reasonable brakes, you just have to consider how all the parts add up if you end up doing brake lines, caliper rebuild, rotors as well.

The problem with the 350z kits are the same....adapters look cheap but then depending on the caliper health you might still end up with having to do all those parts anyway.

24 minutes ago, Duncan said:

The problem with the 350z kits are the same....adapters look cheap

Just for clarity, no adaptors are required for the front conversion. 350Z Brembos & rotors fit on S13/14/15 and R32/33 (GTS-t/R) by just drilling the bolt hole to 14mm (and using R34 GT-t/R caliper bolts as the 350Z ones are too long).

R34 GT-t/GT-R will be full bolt on as they're already 14mm (however still requiring R34 GT-t/R caliper bolts).

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...