Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a question with regards to R34 GTR guards.
All the info here is quite old. Useful, but old.

At what point does the bumper itself become a clearance issue with wide wheels on a R34 GTR, specifically the part I've drawn in red here:

image.thumb.png.b7d4f64c1626815e549f02bc1e004b00.png

All of the info that people post about implies that 285 is as far as you'd go before scrubbing becomes an issue, but they speak of hitting the inner plastic liners, not the bumper itself.
Just how wide could you go if you took the liners out?

Has anyone done it? I have been messing with my own car and spacers and heavily cursed my lack of planning, but I might not feel so bad if there's actually no gains to be had by going a GTR guard and front bar combination for $5k+ of money I do not have after spending about that much already on my solution which now has problems. (Woo)

At least I now know why GTR guards and bumpers flare out like this over their GTT lesser cousins.

image.thumb.png.310873a146898a886fc55b8937dd76c6.png

I feel that in 2024, someone has gone further and attempted to run 315's or somesuch on the front of a R34 GTR.
If you have, please post. If you're tried and failed for some other reason definitely post so I feel better about my mistakes :D

I don't know the answer with a 34, but for sure the standard bumper location is the limiting factor with a 32, that is where the larger diameter tyres I was trying to run were rubbing (noting I had already rolled the guard lip)

On 06/06/2024 at 5:50 AM, ianp said:

I had 295s on mine when I had a 34 and they didn't rub and that was with Nismo coilovers

Do you have any pictures? Love to see chunky tyres on our cars.
Guards were made for 300mm slicks so let's see them chonky bois!

17 hours ago, ianp said:

They were 19*11 +25 with a 10mm spacer to clear the shocks. Tyres from memory were 295/35/19

One of my questions about this was how/if the R34 GTR strut is different to the R34 GTT (I mean it could easily be).

In my car, the 18x9+30 feels like it is 0.0001mm from the strut with a 265 on it. Given a 10.5 +15 is closer to the strut than an 18x9+30, it would certainly foul... surely

I am encouraged that a 19x11+25 would need a spacer to clear the R34 GTR suspension arms at least!

3 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

One of my questions about this was how/if the R34 GTR strut is different to the R34 GTT (I mean it could easily be).

In my car, the 18x9+30 feels like it is 0.0001mm from the strut with a 265 on it. Given a 10.5 +15 is closer to the strut than an 18x9+30, it would certainly foul... surely

I am encouraged that a 19x11+25 would need a spacer to clear the R34 GTR suspension arms at least!

It only needed a spacer because it was the Nismo struts with the external resevoir, if it had been regular coilovers, it probably would have been ok

That's the thing I don't get is the issue is not the shocks in the 34 GTT......

image.thumb.png.2cd31e56ac389c37ba211feb1461e7a2.png

I assume the GTR geometry is different here.

SQUARE PEG IN ROUND HOLE WHY WON'T YOU WORK!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...