Jump to content
SAU Community

Never ending fuel pump drama


Recommended Posts

4 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

Too cheap? I think it's pretty expensive.

Oh, I saw $150 USD and thought, yeah I'd pay that to not have to stuff around with a relay, flyback diode, pull up resistors or whatever else needs to be setup to run PWM. 

I'm like a 100% pure Haltech customer, I just want to buy another box, plug the wires into it and have it all work lol.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's not that expensive for what it does. It is a programmable thingo that allows you to do a wide range to tasks. It is expensive compared to just buying the bits needed to add an SSR into the fuel pump control.

And, given that you have an ECU that should be capable of doing teh actual control, all you really need is an SSR (and heatsink), and some wiring anyway.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link has a great forum topic on the Dorman 902-310.

Just do the same for your fuel pump and enjoy life. I would run it at 1kHz+, the higher the better. 

I'm running mine at 1kHz but that's due to the Crydom's limits.

https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/23999-g4-monsoon-dorman-902-310-cooling-fan-pwm/

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Another another another option (I might do this one day, also has a fly back diode, built in heat sink, will happily run at  5kHz) is the Dorman 902-310

 

That's a neat unit, was looking at running the traditional setup for the race car but will look at using these now.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/29/2024 at 10:29 PM, Butters said:

 

Melted into the plastic, example one of the two, had washer either side. 

image.thumb.png.f857e7d74971fdb90f895042d5bdf637.png

I've had this happen with some cheaper kits and found the efihardware ones don't do this.
I would go be pwm the pump no way need it at 100% all the time. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 29/06/2024 at 10:29 PM, Butters said:

Melted into the plastic, example one of the two, had washer either side. 

image.thumb.png.f857e7d74971fdb90f895042d5bdf637.png

Mine looked exactly like this too. I found that if you didn't have them tightened to 100000 ft/lb, they must create some sort of arcing, and melt.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 on the FPG fuel hat!

funnily enough I tried to PWM control my fuel pump (Walbro/Ti Auto 450l/hr) through the PDM and it didn’t like it. Scott from Haltech said they don’t like it? So I just run mine at 100%.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

funnily enough I tried to PWM control my fuel pump (Walbro/Ti Auto 450l/hr) through the PDM and it didn’t like it. Scott from Haltech said they don’t like it? So I just run mine at 100%.

I think the PDM outputs (the ones that can actually output big power) are not intended to be driven like that. They're either on or off, switched only at a low rate. To do PWM you need to use an ECU output that is PWM friendly (ie, able to be run at high frequency) and drive a separate SSR, instead of trying to thrash the (presumably) SSRs in the PDM.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

I think the PDM outputs (the ones that can actually output big power) are not intended to be driven like that. They're either on or off, switched only at a low rate. To do PWM you need to use an ECU output that is PWM friendly (ie, able to be run at high frequency) and drive a separate SSR, instead of trying to thrash the (presumably) SSRs in the PDM.

Well that explains it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:

For example, the Walbro 525 (F90000285) is the factory fuel pump in the Hellcat which has PWM from factory. These pumps like PWM, it extends the life of the pump. 

I think he meant Haltech meant that the Haltech PDM doesn't like driving loads with PWM. Not that the pumps don't like it.

Think about the heatsinks that we strap onto SSRs for just handling a single PWM load. Then picture how much heatsinking is visible on a Haltech ECU or PDM. None, right? So it's no surprise that they don't want to run PWM loads directly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

55 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Just checking, with this would you need anything else to get yourself up and running? Do I need a flyback diode, pull up resistors or anything else?

I wouldn't think you would need a flyback diode, as it's an OEM replacement parts for a fan controller/relay on a Dodge.

Another tried and tested option are the Volvo XC90 (or similar) fan controllers. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Dose Pipe Sutututu

Sounds good. 

Just double checking with the pull up resistor indicated in haltech's info sheet for their SSR - https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-030202-solid-state-relay-100-amp/ 

I'm guessing that would only be if the ECU did not have an internal pull up resistor? Their instructions are pretty strongly worded lol "1K pull-up resistor MUST be fitted." 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That SSR is actually the same (or similar) as the Jaycar 100AMP SSR (which I use).

They suggest the resistor to stop the SSR turning on when the ECU turns off (I believe). I personally don't use the resistor as I use the 5V output from the ECU to supply power to the SSR. I do however run a flyback diode, the old Haltech documentation was wrong too and didn't specify the fly back, I mentioned it to a few of their staff and they eventually added it in.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

I think he meant Haltech meant that the Haltech PDM doesn't like driving loads with PWM. Not that the pumps don't like it.

Think about the heatsinks that we strap onto SSRs for just handling a single PWM load. Then picture how much heatsinking is visible on a Haltech ECU or PDM. None, right? So it's no surprise that they don't want to run PWM loads directly.

 

17 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Ah ok, yeah I thought he meant the pumps didn't like it. 

Haltech sell a 100 amp SSR, I'm surprised they didn't just sell him one of those.

Honestly, I did think the PDM could do it and thought Haltech told me the pump didn’t like it. But after re-reading the emails and comments above, I clearly misunderstood lol.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next order of business, very much not important but I didn't like how like how it looked (and, we can pretend it restricts airflow if that makes this better). Both the front number plate, and more importantly the holder are pretty ugly. Step1, replace bent old plate with new one in blue cf style with new values Step2, unlike the Leaf where the bumper was flat enough to remove the holder altogether and just mount it on the bumper, with the v37 I decided to chop the hell out of the mount to retain the flat mounting surface. Step 3, much better (needs black bolts I think)
    • If you are selling an R32 GTR, you can buy 3 or 4 v37s Redsports..... Anyway, a few more services/mods for daily use are the first order of business. I'm using the 2015 Q50 (LHD) workshop manuals from Nicoclub and they seem pretty much right, but a search didn't turn up any mention of the term "glove" so I could work out how to properly change the cabin filter for the AC. After some stuffing around, turns out Nissan now call it a "grove" box. Anyway, for anyone who does want to change their cabin filter : 1. Half open the glove box then push upwards each side to release bottom hinges, then twist sideways to remove opening stoppers, then pop off dampener string LHS 2. Unclip the cover behind, then unclip the cover behind that 3. Cabin filter is now readily accessible, note the airflow arrow points downwards. It seems loose in the space but note the cover has tabs that will push it up when you install the cover This time the filter was basically new so I've just marked it with the current date and reinstalled, and the aftermarket replacement I bought Wesfil (WACF-0177) is into the parts box   I really recommend checking this in any car that is new to you, they are normally really grotty
    • I got tools but nothing special, your typical <100 piece toolset ahaha Though, I've never touched CV's before, and dont want to f*ck it up either... I've never taken my car to a shop before (I usually do everything myself or ask the ole man for help) so appreciate the advice on that, will probably stay away even more now. Regardless, any recommendations?  Planning on going to the suspension shop in Rydalmere sometime soon after fitting the coilovers & cv's too for a good alignment.
    • Although, if you're in south-western sydney, i highly recommend you stay away from any shop on Hoxton Park Road.
    • CV's aren't' hard to rebuild, if you don't have the tools then yeah, throw it towards your nearest garage. Any half decent "mechanic" can rebuild a CV, it's quite common to do since there are millions of FWD cars about.
×
×
  • Create New...