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2 minutes ago, cabramatta said:

I'll chuck a clamp meter on it at the same time and figure out whats happening at different settings to get a good understanding.

Clamp meter will probably tell you lies. PWM DC looks a bit like AC (because the voltage is going up and down rapidly), but it is not AC because the voltage never goes negative and the current never reverses direction. But because it looks like AC, and it is happening at high frequency, at can cause wierd reactive effects. Just be warned that you might learn things that are....confusing. Because they aren't necessarily real.

23 hours ago, cabramatta said:

Appreciate the detailed response! It's all new technology to me and your suggestion for reducing DC and finding sweet spots seems like a great approach.

 

I'll chuck a clamp meter on it at the same time and figure out whats happening at different settings to get a good understanding.

 

Will report back with my findings when I get around to it to help anyone in the future that will be in the same situation as me 😁

Clamp meter is pointless.

Unless you're trying to keep average current under a set value for some weird reason (maybe you undersized your wiring?), then you'll get no useful info.

What you're really trying to target is the flow of fuel coming back to the tank.

You want some, but not a lot.

You also want to make sure fuel pressure remains stable.

 

So, fuel pressure gauge, and fuel flow gauge.

Set it up from that.

This is what I've done, add DC until it meets my fuel pressure requirements and above 4500 at over 1bar of boost, I send its mum with 100% DC to both pumps.

I'll post up a table soon when I'm free.

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