Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an R34 GT that had a turbo added. It runs for a couple of mins then the engine just cuts out.  And requires pumping the throttle to start it back up.

I unplugged the MAF and it runs without cutting out at all although the AFR is all over the place. I have replaced the MAF but am back to my original issue.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485570-engine-cutting-out/
Share on other sites

On 16/6/2024 at 4:11 AM, niZmO_Man said:

You need to provide more information, like what ECU, injectors, fuel pump etc. you have.
those make a difference when you're converting from N/A to turbo

 


 

All the turbo parts are off a RB25DET NEO, so that includes the intake plenum, fuel rail, injectors, throttle body. Only exception is the eBay turbo.

i think I worked it out. The air from the Blowoff valve was not being recirculated. This was causing it to go super rich when I come off the gas and flood. I just have to work out how to recirculate with my intake setup

On 6/21/2024 at 9:32 PM, OO Dan OO said:


 

All the turbo parts are off a RB25DET NEO, so that includes the intake plenum, fuel rail, injectors, throttle body. Only exception is the eBay turbo.

i think I worked it out. The air from the Blowoff valve was not being recirculated. This was causing it to go super rich when I come off the gas and flood. I just have to work out how to recirculate with my intake setup

Yeah, that will definitely do that. Don't delete the BOV altogether either as the factory MAF cannot deal with reversion induced by compressor stall.

On 16/6/2024 at 4:11 AM, niZmO_Man said:

You need to provide more information, like what ECU, injectors, fuel pump etc. you have.
those make a difference when you're converting from N/A to turbo

 


 

All the turbo parts are off a RB25DET NEO, so that includes the intake plenum, fuel rail, injectors, throttle body. Only exception is the eBay turbo.

No parts are off an R33.

I have bits and bobs in terms of parts.

And that Nissan Consult device plugs in under the steering column. You need to pull this tab down on the right hand side.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't do it if your gearbox box has already having syncro issues. The short hifter will put a greater load on them. If you must I remember Nismo did a shorter shifter, with the top part being physically shorter and the part that went into the gearbox was the same as stock. In saying that I've had a C's short shifter (I think) in mine for many years, which was given to me as the previous owner was not sympathetic to the gearbox. Thus forwarned I was careful and had to modify my normal changing style. You have to be super accurate with your clutch and shifts
    • Well, after a week of daily driving and having to crawl out between the wheel and the side intrusion bars. I got myself a quick release setup. I went with an NRG short hub and Quick Release with some cute heart cutouts on the pull tabs. Nice and matchy matchy with the rest of the interior accents I have going on.  The only downside is the total stack height even with the short adapter is longer than the old HKB boss kit. Luckily I had some adjustment left on the column so move the wheel away.
    • stock shifter with new bushes, springs and cup will improve it. Gktech do all the bits. The opinion as the years have gone on is the redline is not great in old gearboxes.
    • Hi all   what short shifter do you use on your skykine r34?   my synchronous does have a problem and i was getting huge delay and grinding sound between 2nd and 3rd, did put shockproof red heavy stuff and it is great now/ no issues   would in your view short shifter screw this up?   people seems to suggest/ use cube short shifter and there is standard and premium. Seen review of premium as much better and less play. Thoughts?
    • Yeah, there's a bit of a density and friability difference between pebbles and any of those other things. Silicone will definitely float in oil and so will be mobile enough to move around. Although, again, if it is upstream of the filter it really shouldn't go any further. I would only ever worry about silicone when it is in places downstream of the filter. Upstream of the pickup is a whole 'nother matter. We've all seen what that does. I have seen the most abominable crap settled out in industrial gearboxes, trunnion lube systems and the like, without any sign that any of it has touched anything in the machine. Just chilling in the bottom, waiting for the inevitable operator error that causes the whole machine to need to be dismantled for repairs.
×
×
  • Create New...