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Plug and play, out with the old and in with the new.
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This is ~7.5m from the wall. The apparent lack of horizontal-ness would be because of the slope of surface the car is on. Camera sat on top of steering wheel, to attempt to give similar view as I get. For context as to height of the cut line - the high side (left side) of the Z is about numberplate height on a Forester or RAV when following at normal 3ish car lengths. This may be a tiny fraction too high still. Hi beams may be still aimed a little high. I haven't had a chance to run them on a dark road yet.
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Hi folks, i am new here and i want to introduce myself and the Car, before we get to the main topic where i need your help and your opinions. My name is Patrick from Germany and i buy the R33 GT-R (1995) in the year 2014. It was imported from Japan (Nagoya) to Germany and was bone stock besides of the HKS Super Dragger. It was sold with 95.000 km on it, but some research shows that it was on Japan Auctions with 140.000 km on it. I drove it 70.000 in the last 10 years. In those 10 years i had no major issue with the car besides a broken AFM, broken Exhaust manifold and one broke waterhose under the plenum. Both sides (Intake and Turbo side) was removed and renewed over the years (Lines, Hoses, Gaskets, Upgrade Stock Turbos with Steel etc.) Over the time i changed some things, so here is the spec list what is right now in the car: HKS Super Dragger Catback HKS Super FLow Induction Kit BLITZ Downpipe (Frontpipe) Fujitsubo 200 Cell Cat Nismo Supercopper Mix Clutch Nismo Speedo Nismo Oil Filter TEIN Street Advanced Suspension JR-5 Wheels Stock Turbos with Nismo internals (Steel) - 1.0/1.1 Bar with 1.2/1.3 Overboost (Restrictor Removed) driving this since 8 Years. Stock ECU with Stock Map from Nissan Series 3 Frontlip Custom Air-Induction in Frontbumper Japspeed Radiator Using 10/50 Fuchs Pro S since the beginning + Redline heavyweight shockproof for Gearbox This Year my car will give me constant headaches and some days ago my oilpressure falls straight down to zero and the oilpressure light came on. Iam not sure if i instantly saw the light but i think so because i am very paranoid about gauges and stuff. It happens in 3rd Gear at about 7.000 rpm. Shut down the engine in about 5-10 Seconds after that because i needed to bring me on a safe spot.. maybe i have just fu**ed up in this case because i was a little shocked :|. Towed the car home and checked the Oil-Pressure Sensor. Removed it and put a mechanical Oil-Gauge on - cranked it without starting and there is no pressure. Started it for only 2-3 Seconds (Engine sounds normal no clicking or clunking) but the needle wont move and i turned it of immediatly. So i assume the Oil-Pump is in heaven. The car just drove fine all the time and had no abnormal noises, but on this day on my way back i think i heard some whining like a Supercharger from the car. I am in the middle of removing the Engine Out. this will take time because i need to figue out how... ... but i want to have a look atleast on the Pistons and cylinderwalls, so i remove the spark plug and i saw this: and here is where i need your opinion, because i am not a mechanic and here is where my knowledge will end about "what is a bad piston / bad cylinderwalls". The Cross-cut on the cylinderwalls was all around on all six, but there are straight cuts on top of the walls by 3 or 4 cylinders. Also all Pistons will have this huge "bulletshot-Mark" i dont know how to desribe.. under the Outlet-Valve. And i have no idea what this white stuff is on those Pistons.. it looks terrible. I will post Pictures when i manage to get the engine out removed the mainparts of course. This was made with a Camera into the hole. What do you think about those pictures from the piston/walls? I hope i can safe the engine but i have a bad feeling about it. I started this thread because i think this will get huge for me. When the Block and Head is not broken i need you expertise on Pistons and all the other stuff. So iam very greatful for any help in the future. stay tuned. regards, Patrick
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I have dailyed one for 25 years now. It's considered normal here.
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Here's a result from the man himself. He ran 40psi to make 570kw. That said, replicating Tao's setup has always been contentious, at best. There's no doubt that car would have been externally gated, and assuming you have the same rear housing size Tao did in the above example, there's not much else that is different other than more boost, and having true external gates. That said, he is making your target (~450kw) at about 28psi of boost. External gates really do make a difference. If it's viable it's worth testing to see if you get instant results. I assume you have pretty much an open intake and/or straight pod being dyno'd with the hood up. What's your IAT's like at the end of the glory runs? Tao doesn't have that data but he's always run a pretty maxxed out setup with his turbos being absolutely fully supported in every way. There's a lot of people upset with HG turbos, because they don't have the same test setup that Tao uses when he showcases the turbos, and their results don't come out the same.
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