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With my CD swap I am going carbon driveshaft; I want my driveline as sturdy as possible; however one thing that keeps bugging me is the rear diff flange limitations of a 1310 yoke. I have seen and adapter for the 350z R200 that lets you run a 1350 yoke. However to the best of my research abilities the 350z R200 pinions are most likely incompatible with S/R/Z32 R200 diffs. Am I wrong? are there other options?
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By joshuaho96 · Posted
Unless it's a proper track pad you're probably getting uneven pad deposits. -
If the pads are just street pads (ie, stocko BMW offering) then the shuddering is most likely to just be uneven pad material (ie binder) deposition onto the rotor. If it does it next time you're out, use some 240-300 grit paper on both faces of the rotors. Just fold it over, hand hold it and spin the rotor by the wheel studs. Then go back out and see if it feels different (ie better) than it did immediately before. And then upgrade pads to something tougher perhaps. Also to reconsider how you treat the brakes on your warmup, while lapping and on your cool down. I'm not sure of the best advice here, but maybe something about what you are doing is the cause. Going too hard without a decent warmup? Leaving the foot on the brake when stationary while they are hot (ie after you spin off!!! :D), or not using the brakes at all during the cool down, or only at the very end of the cool down. Or any of the combinations, variations and other imaginable sins that are possible. Maybe you need some cheapo brake ducting added for the track to keep temperatures under control. If you can get some temperature paint or crayons, you could check to see how hot the brakes are actually getting and if that looks acceptable or scary.
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I'd just guess at the usual suspects really. There's not that much to a braking system movement wise and everything has to be right or you get shudder or what feels like warping. In my case we were talking the wheel moving 100mm in every direction 5 times a second (it was ROUGH), like driving over train tracks continuously or something. I used to get gnarly shudder when pads got warm, and it turns out the actual pad was the wrong (yet also compatible?) size. This probably isn't your issue, and another issue should feel something through the pedal, - fade if the pads are way too hot, or a spongy pedal if your fluid has got way too hot etc. Also because BMW it could be weird BMW abs shit
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By Looney_Head · Posted
Thanks, its a distance car lol, good from far, but far from good
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