installing a manual boost controller R34 GT-t

[JC71]

can one remove the stock wiring, bracket and "dual stage (5-7) solenoid" control assembly, if installing an aftermarket (turbosmart) manual boost control?

Edited July 18 by JC71

[GTSBoy]

Yes.

[hardsteppa]

But also no. Because why would you install a 90's-tech manual boost controller when you can get a reasonable electronic one cheap nowdays.

[GTSBoy]

45 minutes ago, hardsteppa said:

But also no. Because why would you install a 90's-tech manual boost controller when you can get a reasonable electronic one cheap nowdays.

I wasn't even going to try that argument. I mean, the argument is 100% valid, and I would take an old Profec over a manual controller every single day, but.....too many words to type.

[Murray_Calavera]

@JC71 are still on the stock ECU?

[joshuaho96]

8 hours ago, JC71 said:

can one remove the stock wiring, bracket and "dual stage (5-7) solenoid" control assembly, if installing an aftermarket (turbosmart) manual boost control?

Sure. Make sure to put some dielectric grease on the terminals and cap it in case future you wants to run electronic boost control again.

[hardsteppa]

On 19/07/2024 at 8:19 AM, GTSBoy said:

I wasn't even going to try that argument. I mean, the argument is 100% valid, and I would take an old Profec over a manual controller every single day, but.....too many words to type.

indeed, I hear you, but, fortunately I have the time right now to type some sh!te. You can now get a cheap elctr boost controller that will do boost by throttle position, boost by engine temp, overboost protection, boost by rpm, boost by your girlfriend's menstrual cycle, boost by the lunar tides, boost by the Gregorian calendar, the whole lot. All for not much.

[JC71]

where is the best location to connect the pressure source line to the manual boost controller???? my rb25det neo has a front mount intercooler, and therefor the stock fitting (like in attached 1st pic, white arrow) on the upper intake pipe is not there. I only see one other smaller hose fittings on the stock intake cross over pipe before the throttle body, just below the recirculation or "BOV" valve.  currently has the blk and red little "filter" in this line. (2nd pic whit arrow)  Able to put in a T and use this one? I have also seen some pics where people appear to have T into the hose going to the recirculation valve nipple??. please advise. thanks.

 

Edited July 22 by JC71

[GTSBoy]

Do it properly. Add a nipple to the hot pipe.

[JC71]

I looked it over last evening and took a few pics. trying to simplify as much as possible. cap or remove whatever is not needed and add two lines, to and from the aftermarket manual boost controller.

there is a nipple on the aluminum/cast elbow between the turbo and intake filter,

another on the steel "hook" pipe in front of that, that looks to be connected to the rubber pipe between the turbo elbow and intake filter as well.

the one on the wastegate, and the two currently to stock solenoid valve

Edited July 23 by JC71

[GTSBoy]

The only good spot is the hot pipe.

[JC71]

not sure what you are calling a hot pipe...

but your saying to eliminate all hoses here, cap all nipples.

block line off the aluminum elbow off the front/top of turbo, and block the one off the steel hook pipe in front and above that, remove solenoid, and both those lines.

drill and add nipple to this intercooler pipe? in pic at red arrow, (as similar to where stock had one) and run a line for "pressure source" to the manual controller from there, then the out the controller to the wastegate?

Edited July 23 by JC71

[JC71]

I would assume the hot pipe would be referring to the intercooler piping that comes right from the turbo headed towards  the intercooler, and the cold side would the be the pipe after the intercooler headed towards the intake /throttle body?

if this is the case, do I want it as close as possible to the turbo or furthest from, to get the most accurate reading? and would the factory fitting on the turbo elbow be the perfect location for the pressure line for the boost controller??

Edited July 23 by JC71

[GTSBoy]

3 hours ago, JC71 said:

I would assume the hot pipe would be referring to the intercooler piping that comes right from the turbo headed towards  the intercooler,

Yes.

3 hours ago, JC71 said:

do I want it as close as possible to the turbo

Yes. On an R32, for example, the nipple is actually connected onto the compressor housing. Right on the front. There is probably a pad on the front of yours that could have been drilled and tapped, but likely wasn't, because they stopped putting it there, for some reason.

If there's a fitting on that elbow, then yes. Can't see it because the photo is tiny and the arrow is in the way. But yes.

[JC71]

much apricated, thank you.

[joshuaho96]

Even though technically best practice is to put it as close to the compressor outlet as possible on the RB26 the pressure source for the wastegates is well after the intercooler just before the ITBs.

[JC71]

wow!!!, what a difference a manual boost controller makes. simplified everything, and cleaned up the engine bay even more. It's a good steady boost now, I set it around 8 for now, no dual stage crap, seem to improved spool up delay, sounds better, and I don't have to push rpms so high to get power and torque. A few other tweaks and I think this thing will be ready to rock.

The turbo air movement rushing sound is still there and loud as ever, even though I found no play in the carriage shaft, I am convinced its from the turbo itself, as has over 100K miles and its the original stock turbo.  I plan on replacing the turbo itself over this winter as all the other turbo system components are correct.  I found and acquired a new old stock RB25DET NEO Nissan OP6 turbo 45V assembly, which I will swap out both nylon and ceramic wheels with steel ones.

thanks to all who helped! 

Edited August 1 by JC71