Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Trying to install the positive long positive battery cable and protectors from a factory GT-R into my GT-T (i have the cable and protectors and clips).  I have googled and watched YouTube videos and am unable to locate the mounting points and exact routing of the BNR34 positive battery cable that goes from the trunk battery to the front fuse box in the engine bay.  The best photo i have have found is attached which shows it running up the outer side of the driver side subframe and underneath into the engine bay.  Does anyone have any photos or routing for the rear?  There is a grommet that that it goes through on the passenger side behind the battery above the fuel tank, and i believe it gets mounts over the hump in the subframe towards the passenger side.  I'm hoping anyone who has a R33 or R34 with a factory trunk battery can post some photos of the routing of the cable.  Appreciate the help!

PositveCableFrontBottem.thumb.JPG.5a10642b7dbf2fff1fbacb9d033ccfd9.JPG

5 hours ago, duggyphresh said:

Trying to install the positive long positive battery cable and protectors from a factory GT-R into my GT-T (i have the cable and protectors and clips).  I have googled and watched YouTube videos and am unable to locate the mounting points and exact routing of the BNR34 positive battery cable that goes from the trunk battery to the front fuse box in the engine bay.  The best photo i have have found is attached which shows it running up the outer side of the driver side subframe and underneath into the engine bay.  Does anyone have any photos or routing for the rear?  There is a grommet that that it goes through on the passenger side behind the battery above the fuel tank, and i believe it gets mounts over the hump in the subframe towards the passenger side.  I'm hoping anyone who has a R33 or R34 with a factory trunk battery can post some photos of the routing of the cable.  Appreciate the help!

PositveCableFrontBottem.thumb.JPG.5a10642b7dbf2fff1fbacb9d033ccfd9.JPG

image.thumb.png.2f2d568fde07945e294985b9d929a7bc.png

image.thumb.png.8280cf3edda9e1d861dfa26980125bc3.png

I can take some better pictures when I get around to pulling the transmission on my R33 but this will probably give you some idea of where it's routed. 

On 7/19/2024 at 1:59 PM, joshuaho96 said:

image.thumb.png.2f2d568fde07945e294985b9d929a7bc.png

image.thumb.png.8280cf3edda9e1d861dfa26980125bc3.png

I can take some better pictures when I get around to pulling the transmission on my R33 but this will probably give you some idea of where it's routed. 

Thanks, i have those photos and the R34 version.  It's where the wire crosses from the passenger side to the drivers side that I'm unsure about.  I'm pretty sure it follows/mounts to the arch of the rear subframe, but i have been unable to confirm.  Photos would be great!!  Thanks

37 minutes ago, duggyphresh said:

I'm pretty sure it follows/mounts to the arch of the rear subframe

If by this you mean the stiffening rib in the floopan, then probably yes. There would be no way that it would be attached to the actual subframe. That would be silly.

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

If by this you mean the stiffening rib in the floopan, then probably yes. There would be no way that it would be attached to the actual subframe. That would be silly.

Possibly, like i said, i just don't know.  I'm only guessing by the shape of the cable.  Stiffening rib would make more sense though.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/21/2024 at 5:46 PM, duggyphresh said:

Possibly, like i said, i just don't know.  I'm only guessing by the shape of the cable.  Stiffening rib would make more sense though.

IMG_7438.HEICIMG_7436.HEICIMG_7435.HEIC

Not sure why these images refuse to be uploaded in jpeg format but that's the way it goes. Basically runs just to the right of the brake lines, up and around the top side of the front of the fuel tank, makes a turn and heads back at the corner, then the last bit goes straight up near the wheel well into the trunk.

20 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

IMG_7438.HEICIMG_7436.HEICIMG_7435.HEIC

Not sure why these images refuse to be uploaded in jpeg format but that's the way it goes. Basically runs just to the right of the brake lines, up and around the top side of the front of the fuel tank, makes a turn and heads back at the corner, then the last bit goes straight up near the wheel well into the trunk.

They have some strange meta data. I was able to repair them on my Mac.

image.jpeg

IMG_7435.jpeg

IMG_7436.jpeg

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Hi there, after a quick google search I found this topic as I am also relocating the battery to the boot of my 1998 GTT.

I was just wondering how you got on with installing the re-routing and specifically the installing of the harness protectors?

How do they attach? Are they just a simple "click-in" affair, or do they attach with bolts? Does the GTT have all the necessary fixing holes for them, for example, where they locate on the chassis?

Any help you can provide would greatly appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So we have most the interior back in, and for the first time with one OEM speaker hooked up. The 31 is running, driving and now tunes!!! Hahaha yet another step for the sub that sat 10m under for two weeks!!! unbelievable really 👌 lots of love work and not giving up on her. Seen so many youngsters part way less, and in way better condition. I’m stubborn, thinking another problem is just a hurdle to overcome, One at a time. IMG_9277.mov
    • That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 
    • Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter.  I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold.    I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.        
    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
×
×
  • Create New...