C35 Laurel Fibreglass End Caps & Manual Centre Console For Sale!!!!
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A helical (ie, S15) diff would not be a good choice for drifting. The helicals are a great street diff, but they do have some odd characteristics that make them less suited than a proper clutch diff. If you get one wheel up in the air with a helical, it will act 100% as if it was an open diff and freely spin the airborne wheel. No drive at all. Drifting is rough enough and you're going to hit kerbs often enough that this is a joy killer. Additionally, helicals are not pure magic. They work by jamming in the internal helical gears into the housing, and they do wear there. All the S15 diffs are approaching 25 years old now and they are all worn. So many of us that have them observe that there can be some delay and apparent slop in the way they engage and take up drive. I've just spent a bunch of money putting mine back into my car and am somewhat wishing that I hadn't. I should have just ponied up, worked out what it would take to get a Quaife into it, plus a new CW&P from Neat. So, the GT Pro is by far the best option for you. There is still no need to change to 5 bolt driveshafts. The increase in strength from the tripods you have to the proper CVs is not going to be large enough to justify the effort and expense in finding drivehafts and appropriate stub axles. Although, having said that, I think when you buy a Nismo diff they come with the necessary stubs. But this is complicated because: Standard viscous LSDs have one long and one short spline, which doesn't work with the mech diffs, so they have to supply stubs. Open diffs have, I think, spline lengths on their stubs that actually work with the mech diffs. So I'm not sure if they do supply stubs with the centre when you buy a centre to upgrade an open diff (as opposed to buying a centre to upgrade a VLSD). Note that the Nismo kits for different diff types all have different part numbers because they know the differences between the various diffs. If you buy a Nismo diff for an S-chassis 3x2 VLSD you will get 3x2 stub axless with it, and if you buy for a Skyline chassis you get 5 bolt stub axles. So you need to make sure everyone involved understands what you are doing and what bits you are working with before you drop your coupla grand. Otherwise we get a bitch thread next. Following on from all that - if you need stronger driveshafts, and at that power level you may well need them, because drifting is anything but kind to them - then I'd be looking to buy actual upgrades, as I first mentioned. And they are universal so they will work with either type of stub axle. -
@GTSBoy @Kinkstaah Thanks very much for the replies!! So the car has been tuned @ 480kw on a dynapack dyno. ABS has already been removed from the car, so there won't be an issue there. So far, I've had no problem with the rear axles. However, I primarily want to upgrade the diff for drifting reasons. Upgrading axles was rather something I was considering due to power reasons as well as if it was worth changing the whole rear setup while doing the diff... I'm thinking of going with what @robbo_rb180 said: a 1.5 way GT pro diff with some new axles? What do you guys think? what axles would you recommend Otherwise, there's a s15 diff for sale near me for a great price .. would save me a lot of money.. do you think this would do me good for the power the car makes? thanks - sorry for being a bit of a noob. -
That night shot of Tokyo skytree is great 👍 Did you catch the name of the coffee & pudding cafe? This is my current exploration theme, top notch little hole in the wall Japanese cafes 😄 -
Sounds just like my RB20 that I eventually found the problem to. Unfortunately had to pull the engine and found that the back of the oil pump cover plate inside the engine had come loose somehow?? Hope that is not your problem.... Before you ask I dont remember what the oil pressure was reading at the time sorry. -
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