Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't know, but I can confirm the paint code shown on your build plate is the external panels; on all R chassis the internal panels including engine bay are similar but not the same as the external paint.

You will probably have to get the paint shop to just match what is there as best they can

  • Like 2

I had this with my s2 R33. I found a grey paint tone called Double Stack (NZ Resene colour), it's very much a battleship grey, looks good but still does not match the original. The factory grey has a blue accent in the tint. A grey tone called Quarter Friar grey might get it; https://archipro.co.nz/product/resene-quarter-grey-friars-resene

With hindsight an experience painter could nail it easy, I had fun, almost, trying. There are a lot greys.

  • Like 1
3 hours ago, czeno said:

I had this with my s2 R33. I found a grey paint tone called Double Stack (NZ Resene colour), it's very much a battleship grey, looks good but still does not match the original. The factory grey has a blue accent in the tint. A grey tone called Quarter Friar grey might get it; https://archipro.co.nz/product/resene-quarter-grey-friars-resene

With hindsight an experience painter could nail it easy, I had fun, almost, trying. There are a lot greys.

Would u happen to have a pic of the area u painted with the “double stack” 

if it’s close enough I’ll just get some of that 

Here it is, shot this morning at work, road worn, dirty & working for a living for 6 years now. No rust there, just dirt and in places it's stuck to the Lanocote I spray around the seam sealer where water deluge drainage is a lot.
Sort of industrial tone. Don't be fooled by thinking you can get any old grey paint in a can to match. I'm still picking away through a box full of them I collected back then trying to find the right one, good for other home projects.


nWHAaD.jpg
xYB3du.jpg


 

  • Like 1
On 26/7/2024 at 7:11 AM, czeno said:

Here it is, shot this morning at work, road worn, dirty & working for a living for 6 years now. No rust there, just dirt and in places it's stuck to the Lanocote I spray around the seam sealer where water deluge drainage is a lot.
Sort of industrial tone. Don't be fooled by thinking you can get any old grey paint in a can to match. I'm still picking away through a box full of them I collected back then trying to find the right one, good for other home projects.


nWHAaD.jpg
xYB3du.jpg


 

Cheers, It must be close enough coz I can’t even tell where u painted. Did u do the whole top of the strut tower or just a patch somewhere? 

On 7/27/2024 at 1:16 AM, Milkmun said:

340k km? Wow 😮 

Reading about 424 000 km now. Long live the 20E. It was like an abused dog when I got it  @ 230 000 km, they'd killed the auto and half shafts, including diff. It is the same motor.

Edited by czeno
  • Thanks 1
On 7/27/2024 at 12:58 PM, Desean Strickland said:

Cheers, It must be close enough coz I can’t even tell where u painted. Did u do the whole top of the strut tower or just a patch somewhere? 

I painted all the top area both sides and down as low as I could get, up to firewall which is original, under the right lighting you can see the mismatch, it's got a hint of blue as I said before. I had rust in same places you are dealing with.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have a VALCON if anyone wants it, I have no idea why you'd want to have VVT specifically broken out of the ECU as opposed to running it off the FCON/whatever standalone you have.
    • Hi Yes we're a bit optimistic we might get something out of sealing up the two pipes of the external wastegate and reactivating the stock one. I believe the orginal stock wastegate was tack welded shut. It doesn't budge and visually looks closed and sealed. The car has noticeably more lag so it could be at least part of the problem, maybe all. It's definately one of the key changes made since last tune. And it's one that's more difficult to fully understand and measure, not like for instance timing or cylinder compression.  Thanks for that feedback, we'll let you know how this progresses. Fingers crossed.   Regards Rob
    • Transplanting the vvt from a 25neo into an rb26?
    • Well, I was going to say, "Is the wastegate set up so that it is not leaking?" That's actually a different thing to what you're asking about. In theory, if you have allowed the two halves of the manifold to commmunicate (more than the stock manifold does - which is at least a little bit) then the negative effect should be apparent in delayed spool, not in outrigth power. OK, maybe just maybe, a badly set up twin scroll wastegate "crosstalk" might kill the top end, although it's hard to see how. What is happening with the original wastegate in the turbo? is it sealed off properly. If it's left flapping in the breeze, it will f**k everything up. If it is still there, and can be returned to service, I'd be capping off the external (presuming the two halves can and will be isolated from each other after doing so) and have a go with just the stock wastegate. I have an internal wastegate in my highflowed rear housing. The bigger opening and flapper should be fine to >250 rwkW. So there's not exactly a pressing reason to have the external. Done right, an external will give better results. Done wrong, it might just be possible to have worse results. Report back!
×
×
  • Create New...