Jump to content
SAU Community

2000 R34 Skyline 4wd (ENR34), auto transmission, RB25DE swap to RB25DET from 1996 Stagea


Recommended Posts

Hi,
I have a 2000 Skyline ENR34 (4wd) with an automatic transmission that I would like to convert to RB25DET. I have access to a 4wd, RB25DET 1996 Stagea with auto tranmission that is being parted out.
Please, help me get the part list needed for the swap. I was planning on just getting the RB25DET engine with the turbo, manufolds, intercooler, piping, downpipe and ECU but was told that the auto transmission in ENR34 that doesn't have the "manual" +/- gear selections is the weakest of all and needs to be replaced too. Thus I might be buying transmission too. 

So, I would like to ask those who know this stuff to comment please before I cash out for parts I might not need. Is that auto transmission in ENR34 really that week that it's better to replace it? Would a 1996 4wd turbo Nissan Stagea have a NEO6 engine or it is pre-neo6 engine? If it's a pre-neo6, is there much difference to neo6 to question this swap if I should do it or not?

What is better - to add turbo/manifolds/piping/intercooler/ecu to RB25DE leaving the originalengine with the head and auto transmission in the car as is or swap to RB25DET and possible transmission swap too?

If I swap the transmission to that from 1996 Stagea, would I still be able to use/keep the trim/shifter from Skylne and would it have the same gear/ratio to work with the rear diff from ENR34 or if I'm putting a Stagea transmission then I would need to match it with the rear diff from Stagea too? 

I know that's lots of questions but I would rather get prepaired before the work starts than start and make mistakes as I go to be figuring them out after it's too late.

Let me know as I don't want to miss this part-out DET 4wd Stagea as they don't come too often in Canada.

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Point 1. If you want to do this and want to use that engine, just buy the whole Stagea. You will hate yourself less by getting everything on it all at once and then having to dispose of the stuff you don't want, compared to how much you will hate yourself if you miss buying something and it isn't there when you need it.

If you can't afford to buy the whole wreck, then you can't afford to do the swap anyway.

1996 Stagea does NOT have a Neo. It is a version of the vanilla RB25. There is a bit of a halfway-house RB25 that was in Stageas at that time that kinda look like a Neo, in that they look like they have some Neo looking parts on them. But they are not Neo. They have hydraulic lifters and the same old bottom end as the vanilla 25.

So, technically, putting that engine and its ECU into an R34 might be challenging. There might be some shenanigans with ABS communication, for example. I'm only guessing, because I've never contemplated messing around with stuff from that era.

Sadly, you probably cannot Nistune the ECU (I haven't checked, but R33 era RB25s don't have a Nistune option because they have a stupid orphan ECU). So you will possibly end up contemplating an aftermarket ECU to get it working.

You will DEFINiTELY want to take the Stagea's auto trans. The one in your car will die in very short order, especially if you turn the boost up at all. This is true even if you add a turbo to your existing stuff. Hence why I suggest buying the whole wreck.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks. I would buy the whole Stagea but have no room for it. Thus will have to get as much as I can from it. Will try my best to get as much. Will already have to rent a storage or something to put all the parts into for the lack of space. 

Interesting about vanilla rb25 in stagea vs the one in Skyline. No idea what's better, would be great to get more comments on that too. I hope that stock ENR34 ECU would work for turbo or could be tuned to run a DET engine and a stagea auto transmission but not too sure of that which is why I'll be getting Stagea ECU out of it. Won't know what kind of problems I'll be getting into until dive full head into the swap. 

Hopefully eventually I'll have a very fun car to drive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If storage space is an issue, the old "front cut" approach might be worthwhile....cut the car in half just at the back of the transmission and remove the guards, front bumper and bonnet. 

You get everything you are likely to need, importantly including all the wiring that you have not mentioned above and which will be a headache to work out between the 2 cars

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/08/2024 at 3:45 PM, Duncan said:

If storage space is an issue, the old "front cut" approach might be worthwhile....cut the car in half just at the back of the transmission and remove the guards, front bumper and bonnet. 

You get everything you are likely to need, importantly including all the wiring that you have not mentioned above and which will be a headache to work out between the 2 cars

Thanks. I'm meeting a guy who is parting out that stagea tonight. Will see what options I'll get. apparently front axles are already promised to someone but the rest is still up for grabs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/08/2024 at 8:45 AM, Duncan said:

If storage space is an issue, the old "front cut" approach might be worthwhile....cut the car in half just at the back of the transmission and remove the guards, front bumper and bonnet. 

You get everything you are likely to need, importantly including all the wiring that you have not mentioned above and which will be a headache to work out between the 2 cars

 I agree with the front half cut, it the best of both worlds especially if youre low on space. and remember whatever you dont use you can try sell worst case to a metal recycler.

On 07/08/2024 at 10:04 AM, GTSBoy said:

Point 1. If you want to do this and want to use that engine, just buy the whole Stagea. You will hate yourself less by getting everything on it all at once and then having to dispose of the stuff you don't want, compared to how much you will hate yourself if you miss buying something and it isn't there when you need it.

If you can't afford to buy the whole wreck, then you can't afford to do the swap anyway.

1996 Stagea does NOT have a Neo. It is a version of the vanilla RB25. There is a bit of a halfway-house RB25 that was in Stageas at that time that kinda look like a Neo, in that they look like they have some Neo looking parts on them. But they are not Neo. They have hydraulic lifters and the same old bottom end as the vanilla 25.

So, technically, putting that engine and its ECU into an R34 might be challenging. There might be some shenanigans with ABS communication, for example. I'm only guessing, because I've never contemplated messing around with stuff from that era.

Sadly, you probably cannot Nistune the ECU (I haven't checked, but R33 era RB25s don't have a Nistune option because they have a stupid orphan ECU). So you will possibly end up contemplating an aftermarket ECU to get it working.

You will DEFINiTELY want to take the Stagea's auto trans. The one in your car will die in very short order, especially if you turn the boost up at all. This is true even if you add a turbo to your existing stuff. Hence why I suggest buying the whole wreck.

definitely take the advice on funds, if you cant afford it better to stop, otherwise it will be in the garage for a while.

and definitely make sure you get as much of the rear loom as possible make it a lot easier to connect all the sensors the ecu needs. if you have the time label them quickly as you disconnect them.

 

either way good luck 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks so much for great points. Front cut is not an option. I can't rent a big garage to keep the stuff. I'm going to rent a storage but usually it's an inside storage with a rollup door. No way I could get a cut front end in there on a dolly cart. But I will try to get as much as possible including full wiring if I can pull it out of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey team,  The clutch on my newly bought 25 swapped r32 feels average and sticks half way. Went to go order a new clutch master but it does not look like the ones that suit the one that’s in the car…    does anyone know what clutch master is this just by looking ?  (The feed is on the side rather than the bottom like the ones the pop up online)  thanks guys new to the RB scene so any help is appreciated cheers !!
    • Id be more than happy to sign up!!! Where do I send the invoices for my fuel usage? I'm happy to provide the mower, oil, and the labour to abuse the motor, just a little help on fuel would be great...   I had tipped the container of oil out into my big "drip tray" and left the small container upside down to drain the oil out of itself overnight. PIcked the container up today, and it has a layer of what feels like either dirt, or shit tonnes of carbon in the bottom of the container. I'm leaning towards it likely being dust, as I doubt the quality of the Sunli BumbleBee having a decent air filter on it, and sections of my yard produce a dust storm, especially because of the high lift blade!   So, filled her up with some fresh Nulon. Seemed to run fine, but it seems to want to run at really high RPM (higher than normal) even with the governor spring slacked off after fire up to try reduce it. If I back the throttle off it a bit to drop the rpm to where I'd like it to be when mowing light grass, it starts to blow a bit of smoke out the exhaust. Opening the throttle back up clears that out. It's definitely breathing oil, as I put my hand down at the breather hose and it's spitting some oil.   My guess is it having been running at high rpm, oil never changed, and it eating dust has destroyed the rings. You know what that means? Time to send it!!!
    • That is what will seal with the bonnet closed. Follow it down while closing the bonnet to see where it ends up with the bonnet closed. The panels don't do anything other than spending money, which this one will do just fine. :p
    • Nah just send me a photo or a drawing and I'll tell you which is better.  It's a new SAU service.
    • Yes, well, one or the other. On R32 (which is the only thing I can look at personally) it's on the rad support panel. You have neither, and it will need to be on one or the other. I must say that the arrangement of holes perhaps looks more like it lives on the bonnet underside on the R34. The rad support panel doesn't look like the R32 one at all. A quick google shows....
×
×
  • Create New...