Does running rich cause oil to go dirty faster and cause fuel dilution?

[silviaz]

14 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Ah ok. It would be a lot more accurate to simply say, the car has not been tuned. 

Blowing black smoke on boost is so crazy far from any state of 'tune' that I would not even call it poorly tuned. 

Do you know where the ECU lives? It takes about 10 seconds to access the ECU and we could solve this mystery.

I'm just relaying what my mechanic told me. In my other post i talked about sonething similiar but some mechanics said to me that black smoke "can" be normal. But I'm out of my depth here.

Ecu is usually under the driver footwell? Or ive seen it sometimes on passenger footwells. Couldn't see it either.

If it hasn't been tuned, is it even possible for a car to run well (meaning it feels normal when driving, not thinking about A/F ratios and such) if it hasn't been tuned on a aftermarket ecu?

Either way needs a tune, I'll leave it to the professionals.

 

[Murray_Calavera]

17 minutes ago, silviaz said:

passenger footwells

Yep, see attached 

19 minutes ago, silviaz said:

If it hasn't been tuned, is it even possible for a car to run well (meaning it feels normal when driving, not thinking about A/F ratios and such) if it hasn't been tuned on a aftermarket ecu?

Yep. For example, you buy a Haltech ECU and upload the Haltech base map, the car will start and feel ok while driving however will have had 0 tuning done (provided the car is essentially stock, the base map will line up). 

If you get a few seconds spare, please remove the passenger kick panel and solve this mystery for me lol. 

[silviaz]

9 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Yep, see attached 

Yep. For example, you buy a Haltech ECU and upload the Haltech base map, the car will start and feel ok while driving however will have had 0 tuning done (provided the car is essentially stock, the base map will line up). 

If you get a few seconds spare, please remove the passenger kick panel and solve this mystery for me lol. 

Will do. 

[MBS206]

14 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Yep, see attached 

Yep. For example, you buy a Haltech ECU and upload the Haltech base map, the car will start and feel ok while driving however will have had 0 tuning done (provided the car is essentially stock, the base map will line up). 

If you get a few seconds spare, please remove the passenger kick panel and solve this mystery for me lol. 

To add to this.

Apart from some cranky cold starts, the tune that was on my ECU years ago for a relatively stock RB25, was happy to run and boost hard my RB30DET, with a TD07S on it.

It was very out of tune, but would run and drive "like normal". Except AFRs and timing weren't right.

[Predator1]

On 08/08/2024 at 2:58 PM, silviaz said:

I noticed my oil on my rb25 stays gold for about 3,500km roughly. Then goes light brown after that. Probably around 4,500 mark it goes dark brown (this is me driving normally with no / minimal pulls as i blow black smoke when i boost) (when I drain the oil it's black at 5,000 no metal shavings though in the filter or oil)

I noticed now that it's been under 3,000km and it's dark brown. I think it's because I've been doing a few pulls more than usual (pulls means, in first gear going up to 5000-7000 rpm)

My oil doesn't smell like fuel at all, and isn't causing me any issues but I don't want to get bearing wear (yes I'll be getting my car tuned soon to)

I don't know if it's just me or if my oil is a bit thinner (I'm comparing brand new oil to oil that has roughly 2,500km from memory so might not be a good comparision.

haha. I change mine every 1500-2000ks

 

[silviaz]

2 hours ago, Predator1 said:

haha. I change mine every 1500-2000ks

 

Sounds overkill lol.

[silviaz]

4 hours ago, MBS206 said:

To add to this.

Apart from some cranky cold starts, the tune that was on my ECU years ago for a relatively stock RB25, was happy to run and boost hard my RB30DET, with a TD07S on it.

It was very out of tune, but would run and drive "like normal". Except AFRs and timing weren't right.

When you say timing wasn't right are you referring to the timing belt being a tooth off? I think my AFR's are f**ked but will find out soon.

[GTSBoy]

55 minutes ago, silviaz said:

When you say timing wasn't right are you referring to the timing belt being a tooth off?

No, he was saying that the ignition timing (which is what people mean when talking about "timing" wrt a tune) was not correct. Meaning that for any given load cell it could have been too retarded (and thus giving away power) or too advanced (and thus being close to or beyond the point of causing knock, and thus dangerous, and thus silly to drive around while using the engine in such a away as to access that load site).

We know your AFRs are f**ked. You're the one who told us it is blowing black smoke.

[Murray_Calavera]

54 minutes ago, silviaz said:

When you say timing wasn't right are you referring to the timing belt being a tooth off? I think my AFR's are f**ked but will find out soon.

The message here essentially is, your fuel mixture and ignition timing can be crazy far away from being optimal however the car feels fine to drive. He isn't talking about the physical timing belt when talking about timing not being correct. 

[MBS206]

6 hours ago, silviaz said:

When you say timing wasn't right are you referring to the timing belt being a tooth off? I think my AFR's are f**ked but will find out soon.

No, the tune was f**ked.
Much like your tune is.

It could end catastrophically for your engine. Either exploding engine, decimated bearings, or just burning the internals of the engine up.

STOP DRIVING THE CAR AND GET IT TUNED / LOOKED AT BY SOMEONE WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY'RE DOING!

[silviaz]

5 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

No, he was saying that the ignition timing (which is what people mean when talking about "timing" wrt a tune) was not correct. Meaning that for any given load cell it could have been too retarded (and thus giving away power) or too advanced (and thus being close to or beyond the point of causing knock, and thus dangerous, and thus silly to drive around while using the engine in such a away as to access that load site).

We know your AFRs are f**ked. You're the one who told us it is blowing black smoke.

Ah right. I guess the CAS is also related to that?

[silviaz]

5 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

The message here essentially is, your fuel mixture and ignition timing can be crazy far away from being optimal however the car feels fine to drive. He isn't talking about the physical timing belt when talking about timing not being correct. 

Ah ok, makes sense.

[silviaz]

18 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

No, the tune was f**ked.
Much like your tune is.

It could end catastrophically for your engine. Either exploding engine, decimated bearings, or just burning the internals of the engine up.

STOP DRIVING THE CAR AND GET IT TUNED / LOOKED AT BY SOMEONE WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY'RE DOING!

I will.

[GTSBoy]

1 hour ago, silviaz said:

Ah right. I guess the CAS is also related to that?

No, on the basis that the CAS shouldn't be f**ked with, and if it is, it should be set back to the correct base timing with a timing light immediately.

[MBS206]

1 hour ago, silviaz said:

Ah right. I guess the CAS is also related to that?

No.

The tune is f**ked. The numbers you put in the computer, aren't right.

 

If you keep driving the car, then it seems you want to take even longer, and spend even more money fixing a broken motor.

[defari]

[Alex001]

how come someone says, this isn’t a car that should be out on the road right now.

[GTSBoy]

4 minutes ago, Alex001 said:

how come someone says, this isn’t a car that should be out on the road right now.

Care to explain the thinking behind this question?

[silviaz]

3 hours ago, Alex001 said:

how come someone says, this isn’t a car that should be out on the road right now.

Like the others mentioned, you could do more damage because you're driving a car that isn't running right. It's like lifting at the gym when you've already injured yourself. You're just going to injure yourself more if you keep going, instead you should fix the issue (heal the muscle) before continuing.

[niZmO_Man]

blah blah you only have two real modern alternatives:

Replace engine with GM LS1/LSX etc. V8
Or...

Replace engine with 4-rotor engine or Hartley V12

 

Everything else is futile.