Jump to content
SAU Community

Servicing my Skyline V37 oil and filter.


Recommended Posts

I just hit 30k and want to change oil and filter on my VR30DDTT and been reading people having issues with the 0w-20 oil that Nissan recommend?

what issues is there as im about to embark on servicing my car myself as booking it in has become a night when sunday is the only day i dont use the car.

if the 0w-20 is an issue why would it be recommended by Nissan and supercheap tried to tell me that my car is not listed under Nissan and to get the same as the 370z which i scoffed at and let be.

What do other V37 owners use or recommend ohh and Nissan said they dont service my vehicle either so im kinda stuck for what to do?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

These engines are in the 400z not 370z. 

0w20 was used to passed emissions and also provide a lower fuel consumption. I am personally using 5w30 in my Q60s as the 0w20 is too thin for my liking and I drive with a heavy foot. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't really say what is best for the VR30 as I don't have one, but I know plenty of people have said things about oil weights in the past without a whole lot of evidence, so I would be wanting some empirical evidence that 0W-20 is causing problems before I go with a different oil weight.

Plenty of people have told me the recommended 5W-30 oil is too thin for the VQ35 in our warmer environment, yet I have been using it in a V35 skyline in North Queensland since 2011 without issue.

Based on the manual you posted, it looks like 5W-40 will be ok, but no idea if it would be 'a better choice'.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been using 5w30 which is still allowed in the manual but not the recommended 0w20, I can't really say one way or the other if it is causing a problem until I tear the engine down, certainly there has been no sign of issue but I drive it hard and will change it every 5000.

Even with the Infiniti not import, my local Nissan won't help with parts or servicing. Just use a competent mechanic who has attention to detail and a compatible scan tool.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take it from an engineer. You could use 20-60 and not notice any difference. They all thin down to approximately the same viscosity at operating temperature. Look here:

image.thumb.png.30d54212b6cf3c6d8cf62e83480a2821.png

The viscosity axis is a log scale, so you have to keep in mind that every major division up that scale is 10x the value of the previous division. And that shows that at the 0°C end of the scale the difference in viscosity between 10 and 50 SAE oil is about that factor of 10. At the 100°C end of the scale, the difference is much less, about half an order of magnitude, which is about 3x (rather than 10x). Meaning, as oils get hotter, their viscosity converges towards a common (smaller) value.

This is a chart for single grade oils, not multigrade. Keep that in mind, we're only talking about the behaviour of a single grade oil across the temperature range, and the difference in behaviour of a single grade oils at the same temperature here. I will address the multigrade situation after.

There is no line there for 5 or 0 SAE oils, but you can imagine that they are a similar space below the 10 SAE line as the the 10 is below the 20.

Look at the 10 SAE line at say, 10°C and at 90°C, being the typical (worst case) difference between a cold start and operating temperature in most of Australia. Some places never go below 20, some are frequently down to 0°C, but the argument is no invalidated by those additions to the limits I'm using. The viscosity at 10°C is about 0.2 Pa.s (Pascal seconds, which is the common term for the expanded SI units shown on the chart). At 90°C, it is about 0.009. That's more than an order of magnitude difference. Do the same for the 50 SAE oil and you get about 2 and about 0.03. That's more like 2 orders of magnitude.

But importantly, the viscosity of the 50 SAE oil at 90°C is still about one order of magnitude lower than the 10 SAE oil at 10°C. This means.....

A light weight oil, like a 0, 5 or 10, is quite thin at cold conditions, but is still thicker than a heavy oil is when that heavy oil is hot. And the engine is definitely going to be happy with the thicker oil at that hot condition, so it can only remain happy with the thinner oil at the cold condition. The difference between a 0 and a 10 SAE oil at typical Aussie cold conditions no worse than the difference between the thin and thick oils between cold and hot. And in fact, much less than "no worse".

As has been said above, the only reason maufacturers are speccing thinner oils for modern engines is to reduce fuel consumption and emissions. Thinner oils do pump faster at the first turn of the engine and so do provide earlier rise of oil pressure and supply of oil to rubbing surfaces (like cams). But really, for actual protection against these initial rotation conditions, we actually rely more on the retained oil which is kept there by the film strength (and by modifier packages that are added to the oil) anyway, and thicker oils are better at hanging on anyway, so it is probably a moot point.

If I had an engine that demanded 0W-20 oil, I would have no issue running 10W-40 in it.

The chart below is for multigrade oils (which adds confusion to the explanation, which is why I used one for single grade oils above). The multigrade oils have a difference viscosity curve, because they act like a thinner oil at low temps and as a thicker oil at high temps, so the scale gets compressed. You can see that the scale on the below chart is not logarithmic (is linear), and that all the oils collapse to the 10-25 cSt range when at operating temperature, and are much more viscous at 10°C (which is not shown on the chart, but you can see they would all shoot up above 100 cSt.

image.thumb.jpeg.dbfa49a1e8f936c83058a01dc08f5ca9.jpeg

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Take it from an engineer. You could use 20-60 and not notice any difference. They all thin down to approximately the same viscosity at operating temperature. Look here:

image.thumb.png.30d54212b6cf3c6d8cf62e83480a2821.png

The viscosity axis is a log scale, so you have to keep in mind that every major division up that scale is 10x the value of the previous division. And that shows that at the 0°C end of the scale the difference in viscosity between 10 and 50 SAE oil is about that factor of 10. At the 100°C end of the scale, the difference is much less, about half an order of magnitude, which is about 3x (rather than 10x). Meaning, as oils get hotter, their viscosity converges towards a common (smaller) value.

This is a chart for single grade oils, not multigrade. Keep that in mind, we're only talking about the behaviour of a single grade oil across the temperature range, and the difference in behaviour of a single grade oils at the same temperature here. I will address the multigrade situation after.

There is no line there for 5 or 0 SAE oils, but you can imagine that they are a similar space below the 10 SAE line as the the 10 is below the 20.

Look at the 10 SAE line at say, 10°C and at 90°C, being the typical (worst case) difference between a cold start and operating temperature in most of Australia. Some places never go below 20, some are frequently down to 0°C, but the argument is no invalidated by those additions to the limits I'm using. The viscosity at 10°C is about 0.2 Pa.s (Pascal seconds, which is the common term for the expanded SI units shown on the chart). At 90°C, it is about 0.009. That's more than an order of magnitude difference. Do the same for the 50 SAE oil and you get about 2 and about 0.03. That's more like 2 orders of magnitude.

But importantly, the viscosity of the 50 SAE oil at 90°C is still about one order of magnitude lower than the 10 SAE oil at 10°C. This means.....

A light weight oil, like a 0, 5 or 10, is quite thin at cold conditions, but is still thicker than a heavy oil is when that heavy oil is hot. And the engine is definitely going to be happy with the thicker oil at that hot condition, so it can only remain happy with the thinner oil at the cold condition. The difference between a 0 and a 10 SAE oil at typical Aussie cold conditions no worse than the difference between the thin and thick oils between cold and hot. And in fact, much less than "no worse".

As has been said above, the only reason maufacturers are speccing thinner oils for modern engines is to reduce fuel consumption and emissions. Thinner oils do pump faster at the first turn of the engine and so do provide earlier rise of oil pressure and supply of oil to rubbing surfaces (like cams). But really, for actual protection against these initial rotation conditions, we actually rely more on the retained oil which is kept there by the film strength (and by modifier packages that are added to the oil) anyway, and thicker oils are better at hanging on anyway, so it is probably a moot point.

If I had an engine that demanded 0W-20 oil, I would have no issue running 10W-40 in it.

The chart below is for multigrade oils (which adds confusion to the explanation, which is why I used one for single grade oils above). The multigrade oils have a difference viscosity curve, because they act like a thinner oil at low temps and as a thicker oil at high temps, so the scale gets compressed. You can see that the scale on the below chart is not logarithmic (is linear), and that all the oils collapse to the 10-25 cSt range when at operating temperature, and are much more viscous at 10°C (which is not shown on the chart, but you can see they would all shoot up above 100 cSt.

image.thumb.jpeg.dbfa49a1e8f936c83058a01dc08f5ca9.jpeg

 

What about cases like the BMW S65/S85 where part of the rod bearing wear issue is crazy tight? Obviously the real solution is to just run slightly oversize bearing clearance vs OEM but I've also seen people suggest lower viscosity oil compared to the 10W60 Castrol TWS BMW specced from the factory.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

What about cases like the BMW S65/S85 where part of the rod bearing wear issue is crazy tight? Obviously the real solution is to just run slightly oversize bearing clearance vs OEM but I've also seen people suggest lower viscosity oil compared to the 10W60 Castrol TWS BMW specced from the factory.

It's not an oil problem. It is yet another BMW design problem. Best fixed by not buying that Eurotrash in the first place, along with VAG products and half of Satan's limo supplier's catalogue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i was thinking 5w-30 aswell.

same oil as i use in my WRX FA20DIT i want to keep it at 5000km change intervals like all my turbo vehicles.

now i just have to find how much i will need and a filter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/08/2024 at 3:17 PM, colin.ssc said:

These engines are in the 400z not 370z. 

0w20 was used to passed emissions and also provide a lower fuel consumption. I am personally using 5w30 in my Q60s as the 0w20 is too thin for my liking and I drive with a heavy foot. 

yes thats exactly right dude didnt know what he was talking about.

yer imma get 5w30 makes sense.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i will be going back there to buy exactly what i want though lol.

i just think the guy didnt even know there was a 2020 V37 Skyline 400r with a VR30DDTT.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i will be going back there to buy exactly what i want though lol.

so after some googling a 400R VR30DDTT should take 5.2Lts of oil with Filter?

i always go a lil over so imma go 5.3or so ive always been told a lil more is always better but not to much.

and  RYCO Z436 oil filter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yep just done that lol.

also got the RYCO filter Z436ST which is apparently slightly better flow and rubber grip outside lol.

supercheap told me to not go against the manufacturers nominated oil aswell lol.

i went with Castrol EDGE 5w-30 was going to go magnatec but was not sure.

but i used Edge in my WRX and had great results so we will see.

Thanks heaps for your input guys.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

well all done was crazy how many screws i had to undo to get that plastic plate off.

but replaced with 5w30 Edge and new filter went about 5.5lts of oil over the 5.3lt standard though i noticed abit of crusty coolant on my undertray looks like its come down from the overflow out that has no pipe?

should it have a pipe?

also could be just me but i noticed loud ticking now that maybe i just didnt notice before(not that i had my engine running with bonnet up much).

anyone else notice this maybe after changing to 5w30 over 0w20 oil?

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Der its not even a 4 door. 🤣  
    • Thanks mate yeop be good ! Understand the kid thing for sure lucky mines a bit older and I can bring him over etc he gets treated like a rockstar 😁 go the RB   yeop wont be doing this forever prob so why not 100% everyones always been good but going back this year was different and more interaction and def more support Def thought about changing uprights etc waiting for @Komdotkomto sort out whats needed for those and do the r & d haha  but yeah hard thing for gtst nothing direct fit as all made for GTR which is slightly diff but moving to the r35 gtr bearing will be big improvement - its just budget allocation as its a $10K to $30K exercise dependent on how mild or wild you go and seems something always comes up - ontop of the crazy travel / racing 
    • Great write up. Always good to record everything to look back in the future and reminisce. How good is the motorsport community with helping out when needed.  Should be pretty proud of the result you achieved for the little amount of laps you've done there. Also good you have the drive to do better too ,I'm sure a 1.29 will happen next year.  You thought about a front end upgrade? New upright and arms with better geometry also allow a better bearing your not replacing every time. 
    • Cracker read mate! Would be nice to meet you soon, probably when the kids are a bit older and I'll take them along to see the world's fastest 4 door skyline 
    • OK WTAC '24 adventures - dont know if anyone wants to hear it past whats been put out already but hey I'll put some of it out anyway and try give some insight   Summary : end result - 6th open class and 1.31.1 lap   How'd we get that   Following the above after Aus Time Attack at Winton and driving the car up to Sydney to store the rb2.8 went in so got to fly over to Sydney the Monday before the event     The car was with Greg at Sydney Composites workshop - we got straight to work that arvo changing out the front wheel bearings as they flog out allll the time.   A new bonnet was being made and my goodness its nice !  also new bigger canards were put on as I was the first one to trial the new canards and after testing from others bigger basically proved to be better rather than my initial cut down version.   We also did ride height changes and setup was there till 1am Wed morning but got it all done     A big focus this year was to get me some seat time on SMP - laps for me = good so has an extra prac Wed morning to roll around so up at 6am to track     Basically 2 quick sessions and 3 'hot laps' we quickly worked out that the custom red / golds  MCA's I had in werent valved strong enough to hold up all the new aero at these speeds, we suspected at Winton but were hoping... but alas nope. Also the tyres I had on from Winton were gone and just down right dangerous haha   So... some appropriately valved MCA golds were sources from Canberra and driven up straight to the track for me to borrow and retro fitted with my current stuff and some better used tyres put on from Xtreme.     Got into the arvo where I had to take more prac spot so took it - we got 2 x goes at a lap but the setup was wrong and was porposing like crazy so aborted each one but we got it sorted correctly after but didnt get to go out again   WTAC official prac Thurs   Did 3 sessions of 1 lap each time no power - suspension better few tweeks here and there and got to get a little bit of a groove back all seemed OK   We found the car getting back to some understeer because we still had the old rear suspension in and it couldnt handle the aero load but had no options so had to work around it ... it ended up scraping the rear diffuser that sits quite away off the ground that how much it was !   WTAC - Competition day 1     Morning Session - usually the best - wound it up had a crack was good but safe and not the max from a push p.o.v 1.31.6   The wind then picked up as did temp went out just for a lap on no power for second session did a solid 1.33 totally sat out the last session as no point due to track conditions   WTAC - Competition day 2   Morning session - full send !  - ran it hard down the front straight as I got to T1 turn in car faulted and switched off - tried to do another lap after resetting tyre pressures and fuel but was not working properly and got blocked and then had red flag anyway haha - bad   Long story short - the balancer had gone and as well took the DBW with it     Organized chaos ensued - between my team - Dahtones and Herman and just about everyone else we got everything needed and a new 1500 ATI put on - luckily thee was a Bosch motorsport stand in trader ally and they let us take the DBW they had on display to put on my car !  legends   So at this point we've only done 1 real lap , missed the good session in the morning missed session 2   Pit walk was upon us and is always so busy but great and met @soviet_merlin and others we also try to get as many kids in the car for fun and photos as possible + meet people     Session  3 - last one - wind was up, track was horrible didn't matter had to go - launched it as good a I could. We changed setup to leave the car in 5th gear into front straight so I didnt have to change down and worked well just held it flat max powas and max rpm - 282 kmph and 217kph around T1 (this has to improve alot )was up 1.2 secs into T8 despite mistakes and as previously said tyres just started going to mush - I couldnt get it around T8 properly lost most of my time picked more up with last 3 corners ended up 5.5 tenths up on previous good lap for new PB but missed out on top 5 by 6 tenths Still not my best lap I shouldve had it to make top 5 but didnt... thats racing     A positive takeaway from an effing tough go at it this year - netting only 2 x hotlaps is both my 1.31 laps combined optimally gave a 1.285 - now I know I'll never be perfect but with a 2.6 sec difference - that means its there it just comes down to consistency to bring that down into an achievable 1.29ish   Our best endeavors to have good seat time and a well sorted car illuded us this year but still got it done as best we could   Good mate made me take a pit pic in front of the car which I look at now and is good as you just dont know I might not be back, or I might !     And then after watching the wild Top 5 shoot out you get to pack up starting at 9pm so pack it all up properly for long trip home   We had a sleep and then yeop ... a near 4 day drive back to Perth. Look I dont actually mind the drive - its not great but its not horrible - but the toll it takes on you after or before competition isnt optimal and neither is the time it takes to do - maybe another option but they are few and expensive I tell you what im basically an international and would be ALOT easier to compete at WTAC if I lived anyway but W.A 😆   All in all hard work, solid result on paper but even if I was still 6th I would've like to at least be in the 1.30s and as close as I was and maybe due to circumstance it still says a 1.31 - which isnt sh*t just not the best .... the W.A crew that comes with me is awesome, im appreciative of getting to work with some of the best on top of that with Brad and some help from the pro drivers, Xtreme and others   So back home back to it - full set of MCA golds going in now which was on the cards anyway and a new 'proper' race radiator to keep it cooler   See what comes up next to race at or in ... that I dont know  
×
×
  • Create New...