Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

New reg arrived, no use hooking it up rail is coming out with injectors.

Sort out this bumper over next few days, finish restoration on headlights. 
post results of both shortly 

IMG_7806.jpeg

IMG_7808.jpeg

  • Like 1

Yeah mate, I’m not 100% how much damage this water has done to the crank and internals. At the moment my mate is sending me whole inlet man with injectors rail to bolt on. 
in the future it’s gonna get a decent amount of boost prob around 400-500hp so this motor is just gonna get it on the road and registered. 
see how it goes. Stage two turbo is still a long way off.

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

What do these look like?

https://www.autolinkparts.com.au/fuel-injector-o-ring-repair-kit-suit-nissan-skylin~46615

Fits many of the circa 1980s Bosch injectors. The gauze screen eventually gets (partially) restricted with fuel deposits, new base seal & Oring (they go hard), and the spray hole in the plastic pintle cap erodes after decades in service.

 

For the numbers I want from my rb30 I’m going a different ecu and it will be getting new injectors at some stage after it’s in the road.
But for that price, they will 100% be getting a service while they are out. Thanks mate

It's a fun job...did a little write-up here --> https://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=159279.105

FTR, smoothed the idle out and the rb30 was more responsive...manifold vacuum at idle came up a bit (likely the base Orings leaking), and spark-plug colours evened out. An interesting little test, is to grab an eye-dropper/pipette and put a couple of drops of petrol in the old gauze filter, same again with new ones...see how long it takes to drip through 😃

Thing is the results are inconclusive because I replaced the injector connectors and fitted the intake runner spacer at the same time...but when you see & test the old gauze filters, there's little doubt this would've pushed fueling a little bit towards the thin side...

...btw... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2891341l00

....washer bottle cap, still available last time I checked.

  • Thanks 1

Front bar finished, headlights back together rebuilt next.
Fuel tank,bits and pieces on Monday. Cold side replaced by next weekend then we may have the first fire up. 
 

IMG_7852.jpeg

IMG_7840.jpeg

IMG_7837.jpeg

IMG_7834.jpeg

On 18/09/2024 at 8:03 PM, 25RBGT said:

headlights back together

sorry to be pedantic about this, but I'd love to see more details about this.

Background: I'm a retrofitter, and when I get off my lazy arse, I have a projector pair and a brick pair to retrofit (with either HID or LED projectors).

Before and after of reflectors, two coats brushed on.

i used a bucket full of hot water to to heat up glue, then pry the lenses out a little with a flathead screwdriver and cutting with a Stanley.

I’m not sure how the paint will go but it’s my best chance without dipping. 

see the reflection in the picture I’m pointing? That’s two coats paint and you can see the state of it in before shot after I cleaned it 

 


 

 

IMG_7922.jpeg

IMG_7923.jpeg

IMG_7924.jpeg

IMG_7925.jpeg

IMG_7926.jpeg

  • Like 1

Obviously he got here on Monday, we managed not to hurt ourselves ....fuel tank looks far more useful now (instead of sitting in an unused car like it has been), but there's so much more to do...

@25RBGT Forgot to say, if you need anything else off that car, just let me know...

  • Thanks 1

Thanks mate yeah ready to move onto the next step now. Get this motor running then I will want the box to drive it around my yard instead of pushing the thing haha

Time to get the ass end off the stands and the wheels back on. Finally tank complete 

  • 2 weeks later...

Today myself and a mate tracked a fuel pump issue down to this amazing piece of workmanship in the fuel cradle loom. Covered by conduit and electrical tape.

so now we should be moving onto the first fire once this is corrected. 🤞🤔

IMG_8114.jpeg

IMG_8116.jpeg

IMG_8115.jpeg

Just got back from a little hands-on with a G58 Baron....I was thinking about this...

..best I can figure it, that pinny was tail-ended ...I didn't really think about the wiring, because all that mattered was the tank and pump cradle (I think I mentioned the pump itself I couldn't vouch for)...which didn't matter, as you said you'd be replacing the pump anyway....

...'for some reason'....and I imagine this is the panel shop's doing... they've replaced the cradle wiring with a metre of 7-core trailer loom, and attached the loom plug (from a different car) to that. The actual cable run from the top of the pump cradle, to fuel pump harness end in boot, is maybe 60cm in length...so I've no idea why they did this...

....the connector in the boot of the pinny, is not going to help you here...because in theory, it should still be present on your car. On top of that, because they've done what they did, we have no idea which colours of the trailer cabling, have been connected to what on the fuel pump cradle (pump +/- , shield, fuel guage/low-level senders)...

...this means, best approach is to remove the pump cradle, and re-work it now ...not later. That is, if you were going to replace the pump, do it, replace the soft lines at the same time...and sort the wiring out (replace that trailer cable with the wiring loom off your old cradle)...

In no way was i suggesting it’s your fault mate.
The trailer cable has a plug that I removed. I will have a closer look, but I did remove the trailer wiring cable with the tow ball as I don’t need it on my silo.

i have replaced the fuel pump already there’s no need to remove the cradle again I can see the wire colours from it in.

Oh for sure, I'm just recounting my thoughts 😎

I'm not what you've got there to fuzt with.... likely my first idea was on the money -- rebuild or replace connectors.

You can get a lot of connector stuff here  -> https://www.rapidcables.com.au/

Didn't look in the boot of mine, because I replaced these when I renewed the pump (plastic of connectors had gone brittle)

edit: what I used... https://www.efihardware.com/products/2120/Deutsch-DTM-Connector-Kit-6-Pin

...cheaper... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364900039138

Edited by dbm7

Thank you for the links. I’m going to go with the 6pin plug you used.

next step is rust treating re painting dash support bar and steering column then the 6pin cradle plug when it arrives in the mail.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...