Jump to content
SAU Community

Help removing R34 GTT coilpack cover

DraftySquash

By DraftySquash,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

DraftySquash Collaborator

DraftySquash

Posted
Posted

For the love of everything that is holy, how do you guys manage to get this thing off?????!!!!

I wanted to change my spark plugs today. Got everything, watched all the tutorials I could find, and read all the forums in here on steps. And then I got blocked on this coilpack cover!! Talk about feeling defeated 😕

Most guides just say it should come off after a bit of jiggling, but nothing I did worked and I didn't find any video tutorials where the person actually had to deal with the cover - it wasn't even there in most cases.

I took off everything above it. The wires towards the firewall had brackets connected to them so I unscrewed it from the cover so I could move them around. 

image.thumb.jpeg.90a0e4b12d87d6926684a1b1356a4a2b.jpeg

 

I took off the hose circled below and still nothing.

Frame1220.thumb.png.55c15d9a0e09706afe3cb716ee5e4832.png

 

I thought maybe I could get more leverage by loosening the bracket that holds the engine cover, but that didn't make a difference either. I was sliding the cover back towards the firewall to lift it up, then pulling the firewall side towards the passenger side to try get it off, but it kept hitting the piece highlighted in blue.

image.thumb.png.bfe06c60dfcb059d04f86142c2a713cb.png

I don't think this car has ever had any OEM parts changed (the black rubber connectors really need to be changed, they are rock hard), so even the wires near the firewall are iffy and I'm worried about breaking them - I've already got one OEM clamp with a wonky screw that doesn't do anything! 

Would anyone have a link to any tutorial that shows how to take this cover off? I just put everything back to how it was but I'd like to get the spark plugs changed for peace of mind. Most videos I found are for removing the cover in an RB26. The strut bar is the only thing I did not take off but the cover is not even reaching that to be the cause for all this. Same story with the rubber piece for the throttle body - did no difference.

 

I did have a peek inside the cover and saw that the coilpacks look nice and clean, and even got a cable tie around them and the plug (except for one piece of corrugated wire protection tube that seems to have been living there for while 😡). But I really want to see the state of the spark plugs and get the damn things changed! 

Appreciate any help you can give me. 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

It is actually a bit dicky to slide out. I'm assuming you removed all the bolts on it :p

It does require a certain angle to go in/come out. When you line it up right you will see it will just slide out. You may need to take off the coupler for the throttle body to get the clearance. You may need to remove the engine cover's bracket as well.

There's a fair bit of angles and a bit of twisting to get it to slide out which I assume is the issue here.

DraftySquash Collaborator

DraftySquash

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 15/08/2024 at 8:00 AM, GTSBoy said:

I think the fitting into the exhaust cam cover that takes the 2 breather hoses just pushes into the cam cover. Just....rotate it or pull it out?

Thanks @GTSBoy - I will see if I can rotate it. The problem is that the cover hits the circular pillar that holds the 2 valves - so unless I pull the piece out, it might still hit it.

 

@Kinkstaah Yes I did take all the bolts off 🤣
When I first saw this cover, I thought to myself "Oh I have not seen this in any videos, but how smart!! It keeps any junk from going into the coilpacks"
Pretty soon, I reverted my thought 😅

Worst case scenario, I'll take it down to a mechanic to have the spark plugs changed for me. But I will ask them to keep the old spark plugs around so I can ake some pics 

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

It absolutely, 100% can come out. Every time I took it out and put it back in in the past I had to re-familiarize myself with how it came out.

When it's the right angle, it actually comes out very easily.

DraftySquash Collaborator

DraftySquash

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 15/08/2024 at 10:56 AM, Murray_Calavera said:

It takes about 5 seconds to twist and remove that breather.

Thanks for that! That is good to hear. I didn't want to try pull something out that should not be pulled out from the block 🤣

DraftySquash Collaborator

DraftySquash

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 15/08/2024 at 4:33 PM, GTSBoy said:

I already told you it was a push in.

ohhh duuh! My bad @GTSBoy I read the part about turning it and completely blanked out on the "Pull it out" part 🙄

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...