Desaster on my R33 GTR needs help. (Introduce myself)

[Paddy_R33]

Hi folks,

i am new here and i want to introduce myself and the Car, before we get to the main topic where i need your help and your opinions.

My name is Patrick from Germany and i buy the R33 GT-R (1995) in the year 2014. It was imported from Japan (Nagoya) to Germany and was bone stock besides of the HKS Super Dragger. It was sold with 95.000 km on it, but some research shows that it was on Japan Auctions with 140.000 km on it. I drove it 70.000 in the last 10 years.

In those 10 years i had no major issue with the car besides a broken AFM, broken Exhaust manifold and one broke waterhose under the plenum. Both sides (Intake and Turbo side) was removed and renewed over the years (Lines, Hoses, Gaskets, Upgrade Stock Turbos with Steel etc.)

Over the time i changed some things, so here is the spec list what is right now in the car:

HKS Super Dragger Catback

HKS Super FLow Induction Kit

BLITZ Downpipe (Frontpipe)

Fujitsubo 200 Cell Cat

Nismo Supercopper Mix Clutch

Nismo Speedo

Nismo Oil Filter

TEIN Street Advanced Suspension

JR-5 Wheels

Stock Turbos with Nismo internals (Steel) - 1.0/1.1 Bar with 1.2/1.3 Overboost (Restrictor Removed) driving this since 8 Years.

Stock ECU with Stock Map from Nissan

Series 3 Frontlip

Custom Air-Induction in Frontbumper

Japspeed Radiator

Using 10/50 Fuchs Pro S since the beginning + Redline heavyweight shockproof for Gearbox

 

This Year my car will give me constant headaches and some days ago my oilpressure falls straight down to zero and the oilpressure light came on. Iam not sure if i instantly saw the light but i think so because i am very paranoid about gauges and stuff. It happens in 3rd Gear at about 7.000 rpm. Shut down the engine in about 5-10 Seconds after that because i needed to bring me on a safe spot.. maybe i have just fu**ed up in this case because i was a little shocked :|. Towed the car home and checked the Oil-Pressure Sensor. Removed it and put a mechanical Oil-Gauge on - cranked it without starting and there is no pressure. Started it for only 2-3 Seconds (Engine sounds normal no clicking or clunking) but the needle wont move and i turned it of immediatly. So i assume the Oil-Pump is in heaven. The car just drove fine all the time and had no abnormal noises, but on this day on my way back i think i heard some whining like a Supercharger from the car.

I am in the middle of removing the Engine Out. this will take time because i need to figue out how...

... but i want to have a look atleast on the Pistons and cylinderwalls, so i remove the spark plug and i saw this: and here is where i need your opinion, because i am not a mechanic and here is where my knowledge will end about "what is a bad piston / bad cylinderwalls".

The Cross-cut on the cylinderwalls was all around on all six, but there are straight cuts on top of the walls by 3 or 4 cylinders. Also all Pistons will have this huge "bulletshot-Mark" i dont know how to desribe.. under the Outlet-Valve. And i have no idea what this white stuff is on those Pistons.. it looks terrible. I will post Pictures when i manage to get the engine out removed the mainparts of course. This was made with a Camera into the hole.

What do you think about those pictures from the piston/walls? I hope i can safe the engine but i have a bad feeling about it.

I started this thread because i think this will get huge for me. When the Block and Head is not broken i need you expertise on Pistons and all the other stuff. So iam very greatful for any help in the future. stay tuned.

regards,

Patrick

[GTSBoy]

The vertical wear marks on the top of the cylinder walls did not occur with just a few seconds or now oil pressure. That is from long term wear.

The damage on the top of the pistons looks like light detonation has been occurring, also probably over a long period.

There could be any number of reasons for all this, from bad fuel to bad injectors, to running a car at 1.3 bar without considering the need to put it on a dyno and check the tune is actually good for it. An ECU upgrade probably would have been wise, years ago.

That engine is coming out and you will be able to "save" it. You will not be able to "save" it without a complete rebuild though. No-one in their right mind would put it back together without a complete rebuild, which is going to cost >15+ thousand Euros. Pistons, oil pump, bearings, gaskets, lots of machining work. Then if you're opening it up and doing things to it, you should also put in rods and much better fasteners, head studs, cams, and so on.

[joshuaho96]

On 8/17/2024 at 6:35 AM, Paddy_R33 said:

Hi folks,

i am new here and i want to introduce myself and the Car, before we get to the main topic where i need your help and your opinions.

My name is Patrick from Germany and i buy the R33 GT-R (1995) in the year 2014. It was imported from Japan (Nagoya) to Germany and was bone stock besides of the HKS Super Dragger. It was sold with 95.000 km on it, but some research shows that it was on Japan Auctions with 140.000 km on it. I drove it 70.000 in the last 10 years.

In those 10 years i had no major issue with the car besides a broken AFM, broken Exhaust manifold and one broke waterhose under the plenum. Both sides (Intake and Turbo side) was removed and renewed over the years (Lines, Hoses, Gaskets, Upgrade Stock Turbos with Steel etc.)

Over the time i changed some things, so here is the spec list what is right now in the car:

HKS Super Dragger Catback

HKS Super FLow Induction Kit

BLITZ Downpipe (Frontpipe)

Fujitsubo 200 Cell Cat

Nismo Supercopper Mix Clutch

Nismo Speedo

Nismo Oil Filter

TEIN Street Advanced Suspension

JR-5 Wheels

Stock Turbos with Nismo internals (Steel) - 1.0/1.1 Bar with 1.2/1.3 Overboost (Restrictor Removed) driving this since 8 Years.

Stock ECU with Stock Map from Nissan

Series 3 Frontlip

Custom Air-Induction in Frontbumper

Japspeed Radiator

Using 10/50 Fuchs Pro S since the beginning + Redline heavyweight shockproof for Gearbox

 

This Year my car will give me constant headaches and some days ago my oilpressure falls straight down to zero and the oilpressure light came on. Iam not sure if i instantly saw the light but i think so because i am very paranoid about gauges and stuff. It happens in 3rd Gear at about 7.000 rpm. Shut down the engine in about 5-10 Seconds after that because i needed to bring me on a safe spot.. maybe i have just fu**ed up in this case because i was a little shocked :|. Towed the car home and checked the Oil-Pressure Sensor. Removed it and put a mechanical Oil-Gauge on - cranked it without starting and there is no pressure. Started it for only 2-3 Seconds (Engine sounds normal no clicking or clunking) but the needle wont move and i turned it of immediatly. So i assume the Oil-Pump is in heaven. The car just drove fine all the time and had no abnormal noises, but on this day on my way back i think i heard some whining like a Supercharger from the car.

I am in the middle of removing the Engine Out. this will take time because i need to figue out how...

... but i want to have a look atleast on the Pistons and cylinderwalls, so i remove the spark plug and i saw this: and here is where i need your opinion, because i am not a mechanic and here is where my knowledge will end about "what is a bad piston / bad cylinderwalls".

The Cross-cut on the cylinderwalls was all around on all six, but there are straight cuts on top of the walls by 3 or 4 cylinders. Also all Pistons will have this huge "bulletshot-Mark" i dont know how to desribe.. under the Outlet-Valve. And i have no idea what this white stuff is on those Pistons.. it looks terrible. I will post Pictures when i manage to get the engine out removed the mainparts of course. This was made with a Camera into the hole.

What do you think about those pictures from the piston/walls? I hope i can safe the engine but i have a bad feeling about it.

I started this thread because i think this will get huge for me. When the Block and Head is not broken i need you expertise on Pistons and all the other stuff. So iam very greatful for any help in the future. stay tuned.

regards,

Patrick

The block and head might be salvageable but everything else is trash. Pull the engine and don't run it without a proper tune next time. I've been driving around on the stock tune and aftermarket turbos, but I run wastegate boost and I checked the ECU's reported ignition timing to see if it's going to knock maps and that it's not running off the end of the load scales. Anything else is just not safe period.

[Paddy_R33]

On 19/08/2024 at 6:26 AM, joshuaho96 said:

The block and head might be salvageable but everything else is trash. Pull the engine and don't run it without a proper tune next time. I've been driving around on the stock tune and aftermarket turbos, but I run wastegate boost and I checked the ECU's reported ignition timing to see if it's going to knock maps and that it's not running off the end of the load scales. Anything else is just not safe period.

thanks. Yeah i was running with drilled restrictor 0.9 bar for like 3-4 Years and after Steel Turbo upgrade 1.0 bar (with overboost 1.2 bar on cold weather for one second etc.) - iam also thinking that i was running too lean for several years because i used the wire loop in the back of the engine which is giving false information when adjusting the timing. Thats something i found out 2 years ago :/.

thanks for reply. Engine need to coming out and then i will see whats going on (especially with the Oil Pump)

[R32RB20]

On 17/08/2024 at 11:35 PM, Paddy_R33 said:

Hi folks,

i am new here and i want to introduce myself and the Car, before we get to the main topic where i need your help and your opinions.

My name is Patrick from Germany and i buy the R33 GT-R (1995) in the year 2014. It was imported from Japan (Nagoya) to Germany and was bone stock besides of the HKS Super Dragger. It was sold with 95.000 km on it, but some research shows that it was on Japan Auctions with 140.000 km on it. I drove it 70.000 in the last 10 years.

In those 10 years i had no major issue with the car besides a broken AFM, broken Exhaust manifold and one broke waterhose under the plenum. Both sides (Intake and Turbo side) was removed and renewed over the years (Lines, Hoses, Gaskets, Upgrade Stock Turbos with Steel etc.)

Over the time i changed some things, so here is the spec list what is right now in the car:

HKS Super Dragger Catback

HKS Super FLow Induction Kit

BLITZ Downpipe (Frontpipe)

Fujitsubo 200 Cell Cat

Nismo Supercopper Mix Clutch

Nismo Speedo

Nismo Oil Filter

TEIN Street Advanced Suspension

JR-5 Wheels

Stock Turbos with Nismo internals (Steel) - 1.0/1.1 Bar with 1.2/1.3 Overboost (Restrictor Removed) driving this since 8 Years.

Stock ECU with Stock Map from Nissan

Series 3 Frontlip

Custom Air-Induction in Frontbumper

Japspeed Radiator

Using 10/50 Fuchs Pro S since the beginning + Redline heavyweight shockproof for Gearbox

 

This Year my car will give me constant headaches and some days ago my oilpressure falls straight down to zero and the oilpressure light came on. Iam not sure if i instantly saw the light but i think so because i am very paranoid about gauges and stuff. It happens in 3rd Gear at about 7.000 rpm. Shut down the engine in about 5-10 Seconds after that because i needed to bring me on a safe spot.. maybe i have just fu**ed up in this case because i was a little shocked :|. Towed the car home and checked the Oil-Pressure Sensor. Removed it and put a mechanical Oil-Gauge on - cranked it without starting and there is no pressure. Started it for only 2-3 Seconds (Engine sounds normal no clicking or clunking) but the needle wont move and i turned it of immediatly. So i assume the Oil-Pump is in heaven. The car just drove fine all the time and had no abnormal noises, but on this day on my way back i think i heard some whining like a Supercharger from the car.

I am in the middle of removing the Engine Out. this will take time because i need to figue out how...

... but i want to have a look atleast on the Pistons and cylinderwalls, so i remove the spark plug and i saw this: and here is where i need your opinion, because i am not a mechanic and here is where my knowledge will end about "what is a bad piston / bad cylinderwalls".

The Cross-cut on the cylinderwalls was all around on all six, but there are straight cuts on top of the walls by 3 or 4 cylinders. Also all Pistons will have this huge "bulletshot-Mark" i dont know how to desribe.. under the Outlet-Valve. And i have no idea what this white stuff is on those Pistons.. it looks terrible. I will post Pictures when i manage to get the engine out removed the mainparts of course. This was made with a Camera into the hole.

What do you think about those pictures from the piston/walls? I hope i can safe the engine but i have a bad feeling about it.

I started this thread because i think this will get huge for me. When the Block and Head is not broken i need you expertise on Pistons and all the other stuff. So iam very greatful for any help in the future. stay tuned.

regards,

Patrick

Hi Patrick, the good news is the oil pressure is only a symptom of much greater issues you are having. Like the other guys have said, since you're ripping it out you may as well rebuild and get a proper tune. wishing you all the best with it. please feel free to regularly keep us updated

[MBS206]

I'm definitely not in my right mind, so take this with a grain of salt...

 

All of what you've shown won't/can't cause low/no oil pressure.

I'd find what happened to the oil pressure, check the bearings, fix the oil pressure and send it after a re-tune.

 

Then again, I don't like spending stupid money on cars these days if I can avoid it. So I'm definitely in the mad category.

[Paddy_R33]

Hi,

my brother and i won the Engine Out Fight and manage to get our first RB26 out of the Car. The Gearbox removal from the Engine was horror, but i think i dont need to tell you that.

webp to gif online

 

We turned the Engine and removed the oil pan and didnt find any metallic things in the pan. The bearings have all signs of some wear but it seems i got lucky and not running into 100% catastrophe. There is no vertical play on them either. The Cranshaft looked all good what we can see (its not fully out yet).

We need to stop and cant get further to the Oilpump because tools are missing yet to remove the pulley and the gear. I will show pictures on Oil Pump, Head, Pistons and so on when we get it out.

Bye

Patrick

[admS15]

Crank looks ok so far. Hopefully all the journals are like that. I would happily reuse with a slight linish if they are.

[Paddy_R33]

just a short update with pics for those who are interested.

- turbos both blown (wheels are stiff/ wont rotate anymore)

- oilpump broken

- crankshaft wear on front (dont know if this is repairable)

- one bearing is nearly dead, all the other seems good with slight wear (will replace all of them regardless)

- other stuff i dont know. need expert for review whats repairable and what is not (surely Pistons will all be replaced also)

 

[GTSBoy]

We won't be able to tell anything from those photos. Most of them are unnecessary for making decisions about what's good or bad anyway. The ones that matter are the of the crank. And we can't tell what state it is in from those. Take it to an engine builder and ask for it to be inspected and measured. It can probably be brought back just with some machining and undersized bearings.

Worst case, you buy a new billet crank.

Everything else is fine. New pump, new turbos, new pistons, rings, bearings, etc etc etc etc.

[Murray_Calavera]

What was the usage like with this car? Was it a track car? Did it see much time bouncing on the rev limiter?

[Paddy_R33]

On 07/09/2024 at 2:13 AM, Murray_Calavera said:

What was the usage like with this car? Was it a track car? Did it see much time bouncing on the rev limiter?

Street Car only, was never on track with it. Surely it saw here and there the rev limiter in the beginning (but not like an absolute maniac)..  shift it usualy before reaching 7k rpm when i want to drive fast on the highway, otherwise just driving normal as im getting older ;P

[Paddy_R33]

On 07/09/2024 at 1:57 AM, GTSBoy said:

We won't be able to tell anything from those photos. Most of them are unnecessary for making decisions about what's good or bad anyway. The ones that matter are the of the crank. And we can't tell what state it is in from those. Take it to an engine builder and ask for it to be inspected and measured. It can probably be brought back just with some machining and undersized bearings.

Worst case, you buy a new billet crank.

Everything else is fine. New pump, new turbos, new pistons, rings, bearings, etc etc etc etc.

it is clear to me that you cant decide anything on those photots.. it was just for document purpose. i will search machine-expert in the next step and see what he is saying and thats it.

 

i have one question about oilpump. i dont want the Oem and the N1 Version either in the car. I also dont want those high-flow-capacity Oil Pumps like HKS with 65L/min. in the car, because i heard storys that it will suck too much oil out of the pan and it will not coming fast enough back.

Am i fine to buy the Nismo Pump with the stronger gears/housing for a relative stock setup (no extended pan, no drilling etc.)?

[Murray_Calavera]

This is not going to be a cheap exercise, even if you shoot for an OEM rebuild. I would strongly consider doing everything properly the first time... Get the big boy pump, get the baffled and extended sump, setup the breathers properly, etc etc. 

[GTSBoy]

^ This.

Nitto pump. Aussie made stuff is generally streets ahead of the Jap stuff.