Jump to content
SAU Community

Unplugging R34 gtt coil loom


Recommended Posts

I recently did a bunch of upgrades to my car and my tuner was in my laptop giving me a base tune for the haltech and he noticed the firmware for It was pretty old. Told me to unplug the coils before he updates the firmware because in the past they have fried on other cars while updating. I found the plug on my car and I can’t seem to unhook it. I’ll post a video. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Push the catch in, slide the two halves apart. You may need a thin flat bladed screwdriver or similar to insert into the split line between the halves to give a little leverage and you may need the tip of some needle nose pliers or similar to convince the catch to push in. These all get stiff and stuck if left alone for years.

You can also spray a little silicone lube into the catch area to try to make it easier to move.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Push the catch in, slide the two halves apart. You may need a thin flat bladed screwdriver or similar to insert into the split line between the halves to give a little leverage and you may need the tip of some needle nose pliers or similar to convince the catch to push in. These all get stiff and stuck if left alone for years.

You can also spray a little silicone lube into the catch area to try to make it easier to move.

Thanks. That was my next idea was some silicone lubricant to try and free it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey @SeanR32GtSt did you manage to get it loose? if not try insert a flat head into the top portion of the split and use another flat head to work your way around the plug.

they're really tight because they have a water seal gasket all the way around.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, R32RB20 said:

Hey @SeanR32GtSt did you manage to get it loose? if not try insert a flat head into the top portion of the split and use another flat head to work your way around the plug.

they're really tight because they have a water seal gasket all the way around.

Cheers

Appreciate it. Haven’t had the time yet to try. I work 4 12 hour shifts at my local hospital. But I have Friday off to try again. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Duncan said:

whoa. are you trying to say we live on a sphere spinning on it's axis while rotating around the sun????

Nope, see photo from NASA 

images(34).thumb.jpeg.1710dd6439e4e850e4f807f5ac5317c8.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Weird the Gktech one doesn't have the 3 holes and is only a 5min install if you have the standard front bar.
    • Honestly, as someone on the standard PS4 controller, should be relatively easy to get gold. Remember you have more grip than you think.
    • Fitted some Advan AD09s to try next. Likely slower than the CR-S but should work in the wet and last longer.   Off for alignment and the new plates worked a treat! I was finally able to hit both my drift and grip alignment targets with the same setup! Grip Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15° Rear: Total toe +3mm (1.5mm in each side) Camber -1.5° —————————————- Drift as above but drop the front sway bar and change the below. Front: Toe total -10mm(5mm out each side) Ackerman +5°  
    • @Duncan can you put the Link in, and measure all the power input voltages with a multimeter. Specifically looking for one that is low.   Then put the other ECU in that it runs on, and measure those voltages again with a multimeter?   If all of your voltages read normal on both ECUs, but the link is still reading low internally, your issue IS the LINK. If the voltages drop low on the multimeter while the Link is plugged in, but not other ECU, then the issue COULD be wiring in the car, or it COULD be the ECU. To rule out wiring, work out how with an ECU removed, you can trigger all the necessary relays, and then measure resistance from the pin that is reading low at the ECU, to the batteries positive power.   I have a sneaking suspicion your issue is the link, it's not reading the voltage properly, possibly a dry joint, or a Cap dieing, and because voltage is low, it's likely attempting to compensate on fuelling and the engine won't run.
    • Hi there, Does anyone here have the carbonetics slam panel installed on their R34 GTT? Or used to have one and got some pics of how it sat? https://carbonetics.net/products/1999-2002-nissan-skyline-r34-gtt-cooling-slam-panel?srsltid=AfmBOoo6Uz0nuxGI3qC0sn56KJI6PMgh0OvV-pbegsPDHTtTxz4IMljc I’m just trying to get an idea of how they sit once installed but these guys have no pics.  biggest question I’m trying to figure out is what the hell the 3 holes at the front of the panel are 😂 and where they bolt    Thanks in advance 
×
×
  • Create New...