Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 GTT OEM Radiator Cap

DraftySquash
 Share

Recommended Posts

DraftySquash Enthusiast

DraftySquash

Posted
Posted

Looking to buy a new radiator cap for my Skyline because I think this one is shot. I've got the part# 2143001F02 and it seems this same part is also the radiator cap for the Nissan Sunny B13? 

https://goodstate.com.au/parts/72f01c08ec5ae1878e258c43e35b81aa?srsltid=AfmBOorhguaKBQN0nFfCaM7kjdreG3TrS4nbB3VWZWw8iFXGJtFP-jtw

I mean, the part number matches, so I'm inclined to not overthink it. These are some of the only guys in Aus I could find. Most radiator caps I find are 1.2 and I would feel more comfortable replacing with a stock 0.9 cap. I just wanted to get some kind of confirmation since their website does not show the RB25 or the Skyline as compatible. 🤷🏽‍♂️

Link to comment
Share on other sites
DraftySquash Enthusiast

DraftySquash

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I know this has been discussed before, but I can see the Fenix radiator is 1.1 bar. 
https://fenixradiators.com.au/products/nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-gt-rfull-alloy-performance-radiator?variant=40947446251678

1. Should I be worried about the extra 0.2 bar pressure that will be going through the whole cooling system?
Car is just a daily, only time it goes over 3K revs is when I'm merging on the highway or sick of being stuck behind a slow car 🤣

2. If I'm so worried, do I just get a 0.9 bar cap? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

If you want to be pedantic and justify it. Higher pressure means it needs to be a higher temperature to boil over.

In the real world, it absolutely won't matter at all. You can also tell yourself that an alloy radiator can handle higher pressure than one with 20 year old plastic tanks (it will).

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Realistically, the biggest impact of the higher pressure cap in a daily car is a coolant hose that is on its way to failing will happen a little sooner due to potential for extra pressure in the system :)

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
DraftySquash Enthusiast

DraftySquash

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
On 22/08/2024 at 12:35 PM, Kinkstaah said:

If you want to be pedantic and justify it. Higher pressure means it needs to be a higher temperature to boil over.

In the real world, it absolutely won't matter at all. You can also tell yourself that an alloy radiator can handle higher pressure than one with 20 year old plastic tanks (it will).

@Kinkstaah yeah might just be me being paranoid with how much can go wrong! 
 

 

On 22/08/2024 at 12:49 PM, Duncan said:

Realistically, the biggest impact of the higher pressure cap in a daily car is a coolant hose that is on its way to failing will happen a little sooner due to potential for extra pressure in the system :)

@Duncan Looks like I'll get replacement hoses for the radiator soon after the radiator then!!! 

 

@GTSBoy Is this the right radiator? It just says R34 and R33 so I'm assuming they all have the same radiator specs? 
I read in a guide that there is a sensor on the bottom left? Do those still fit as well?

Edited by DraftySquash
Link to comment
Share on other sites
DraftySquash Enthusiast

DraftySquash

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ohhh nvm - apparently that's for the thermo fan.. guess that I will just look past that and pray my engine never gets that hot 🙏🏾

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
25 minutes ago, DraftySquash said:

Is this the right radiator? It just says R34 and R33 so I'm assuming they all have the same radiator specs? 
I read in a guide that there is a sensor on the bottom left? Do those still fit as well?

It should be. It's the only option (other than the cross flow, which you don't want, and the one with the shroud and fan, which is the same rad underneath anyway).

As to the sensor, I dunno. I think the spot for it is shown blank on their photos. You would be well advised to a) look on your own to see the sensor is there and that you therefore need to accommodate it, and b) ask Fenix what their provision is. You might need to drill and tap the hole, or they might do it on request or as a standard option or a delete option. (Mine is in an R32, so it's not the same thing, and I didn't order it anyway, so I don't know what we did for mine).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • niZmO_Man
      Gran Turismo 7 Time trial

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      Honestly, as someone on the standard PS4 controller, should be relatively easy to get gold. Remember you have more grip than you think.
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      Fitted some Advan AD09s to try next. Likely slower than the CR-S but should work in the wet and last longer.   Off for alignment and the new plates worked a treat! I was finally able to hit both my drift and grip alignment targets with the same setup! Grip Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15° Rear: Total toe +3mm (1.5mm in each side) Camber -1.5° —————————————- Drift as above but drop the front sway bar and change the below. Front: Toe total -10mm(5mm out each side) Ackerman +5°  
    • MBS206
      Thanks Santa (the neverending trials of the 400,000klm, 400kw, RB30, manual swapped Stagea)

      By MBS206 · Posted

      @Duncan can you put the Link in, and measure all the power input voltages with a multimeter. Specifically looking for one that is low.   Then put the other ECU in that it runs on, and measure those voltages again with a multimeter?   If all of your voltages read normal on both ECUs, but the link is still reading low internally, your issue IS the LINK. If the voltages drop low on the multimeter while the Link is plugged in, but not other ECU, then the issue COULD be wiring in the car, or it COULD be the ECU. To rule out wiring, work out how with an ECU removed, you can trigger all the necessary relays, and then measure resistance from the pin that is reading low at the ECU, to the batteries positive power.   I have a sneaking suspicion your issue is the link, it's not reading the voltage properly, possibly a dry joint, or a Cap dieing, and because voltage is low, it's likely attempting to compensate on fuelling and the engine won't run.
    • DraftySquash
      Feedback on Carbonetics: R34 GTT cooling panel

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Hi there, Does anyone here have the carbonetics slam panel installed on their R34 GTT? Or used to have one and got some pics of how it sat? https://carbonetics.net/products/1999-2002-nissan-skyline-r34-gtt-cooling-slam-panel?srsltid=AfmBOoo6Uz0nuxGI3qC0sn56KJI6PMgh0OvV-pbegsPDHTtTxz4IMljc I’m just trying to get an idea of how they sit once installed but these guys have no pics.  biggest question I’m trying to figure out is what the hell the 3 holes at the front of the panel are 😂 and where they bolt    Thanks in advance 
    • MBS206
      Has anyone repurposed the rear ashtray in an r32?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You guys have more than one friend to need to use a backseat?! 😮
×
×
  • Create New...