Jump to content
SAU Community

Ross Racing Balancer/Trigger kit


Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I am considering buying the Ross Racing Trigger kit for my ecr33. The only thing that puts me off is these seem to get a bad wrap but most forum posts I can find are from almost 10 years ago. 

Has the quality improved? I like that I can reuse my nitto timing gear, don't need to modify my billet oil pump etc to fit this trigger kit. But if its no good, I will go another way - can anyone recommend something better?

 

Thank you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ross will have better warranty support being based in VIC. When i was in the same position, I had read about them throwing power steering belts under high load due to incorrect installation. I had my tuner run the car on the dyno for a few power runs after installation to ensure it was running as intended.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ross Balancers seem fine now.

 

Consider speaking to ignite 5.0 for the trigger kit though.  They don't list the kits on the site but will supply them.

 

I run two RB's, one a Ross 36-2 and an Ati with custom trigger wheel 36-2, both with ignite 5.0 triggers. So much better than other kits around. No cutting oil pump housings, no issues with sync or fine tolerance clearances. Just bloody works and has done for over 3 years.  

 

With  36-2 and a good ecu too, once you have start sync, the cam trigger is no longer used.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got a Ross trigger kit (crank only) and have modified it to use a Bosch Motorsport reluctor instead of a hall sensor.

It's been fine with 36+1 to 8000rpm and hasn't thrown any belts.

I made my own cam trigger out of a dead CAS and one of these, pretty simple job and looks like a stock CAS. At the time I was going for a stock looking engine bay but the dry sump has kind of ruined that.

https://www.nzefi.com/product/crankshaft-reluctor-trigger-sensor/

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Weird the Gktech one doesn't have the 3 holes and is only a 5min install if you have the standard front bar.
    • Honestly, as someone on the standard PS4 controller, should be relatively easy to get gold. Remember you have more grip than you think.
    • Fitted some Advan AD09s to try next. Likely slower than the CR-S but should work in the wet and last longer.   Off for alignment and the new plates worked a treat! I was finally able to hit both my drift and grip alignment targets with the same setup! Grip Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15° Rear: Total toe +3mm (1.5mm in each side) Camber -1.5° —————————————- Drift as above but drop the front sway bar and change the below. Front: Toe total -10mm(5mm out each side) Ackerman +5°  
    • @Duncan can you put the Link in, and measure all the power input voltages with a multimeter. Specifically looking for one that is low.   Then put the other ECU in that it runs on, and measure those voltages again with a multimeter?   If all of your voltages read normal on both ECUs, but the link is still reading low internally, your issue IS the LINK. If the voltages drop low on the multimeter while the Link is plugged in, but not other ECU, then the issue COULD be wiring in the car, or it COULD be the ECU. To rule out wiring, work out how with an ECU removed, you can trigger all the necessary relays, and then measure resistance from the pin that is reading low at the ECU, to the batteries positive power.   I have a sneaking suspicion your issue is the link, it's not reading the voltage properly, possibly a dry joint, or a Cap dieing, and because voltage is low, it's likely attempting to compensate on fuelling and the engine won't run.
    • Hi there, Does anyone here have the carbonetics slam panel installed on their R34 GTT? Or used to have one and got some pics of how it sat? https://carbonetics.net/products/1999-2002-nissan-skyline-r34-gtt-cooling-slam-panel?srsltid=AfmBOoo6Uz0nuxGI3qC0sn56KJI6PMgh0OvV-pbegsPDHTtTxz4IMljc I’m just trying to get an idea of how they sit once installed but these guys have no pics.  biggest question I’m trying to figure out is what the hell the 3 holes at the front of the panel are 😂 and where they bolt    Thanks in advance 
×
×
  • Create New...