Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

My 98 GTT is having issues and I am stuck . the issues surprisingly happened after I washed my car but I am not sure if that is the reason for the issues . Initially there was no cel car started up no problem but seemed to have a misfire at idle and wouldn’t rev above 2k (limp mode ?) . I tried cleaning the AFM and still same issues then the idle got worse and worse . Now the car won’t hold an idle / start and threw codes 12 (afm) 17(abs?) and 46 (tms) . I pulled the coil packs and spark plugs to try to see if they were the issue and car looked to be running rich (black) and the coils (splitfire) all had resistance between 1.5 and 1.6 and cleaned the afm AGAIN so I put back everything back and codes 12 and 17 are gone now but 46 is still there ?
 

how do I correct the code ? Could my issues be from water in the cat from the car wash ? My dumb self also pulled the TPS without marking it so could that also be an issue for starting it? spark plugs are fairly new yet they were black when I pulled them (all of them) 
 

I plan to pull the cat tomorrow to take a look to see if it is clogged. 

also replaced fuel filter 

Side note, my coupler from TB to J pipe is cracking . Will a 2.5 silicon coupler work as a replacement for this old oem one ? 

any insight is appreciated 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Make sure you set your TPS back to .46 volts with throttle closed and key in the on position (car off) then use multi metre and probe the positive up the back of your TPS plug, im not 100% sure which of the 3 wires is power on a NEO motor but on my S1 its the middle but just double check. 

as for the coupling in-between tb and j pipe, just take the old one off and take it with you to autobarn, supercheap whatever your go to is and match it up. Those places stock what you need :) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, MspecR33_ said:

Make sure you set your TPS back to .46 volts with throttle closed and key in the on position (car off) then use multi metre and probe the positive up the back of your TPS plug, im not 100% sure which of the 3 wires is power on a NEO motor but on my S1 its the middle but just double check. 

as for the coupling in-between tb and j pipe, just take the old one off and take it with you to autobarn, supercheap whatever your go to is and match it up. Those places stock what you need :) 

hold on i just realised you're in the USA not Australia hahah, so in that case take the coupling to any automotive parts store you guys have over there instead hahah

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, AndyR34GTT said:

Thanks man ! I’ll calibrate the tps . This is the mechanical one though ? Same voltage right ?

Not sure what you mean by mechanical man but this is what im talking about, this is your TPS, and yeh 0.46V is what you’re after!

spacer.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine doesn’t have two plugs . It’s a 1998 rb25det Neo. I didn’t touch that sensor I removed the one in the back which is the mechanical tps which is measured by the throttle / pedal . 

 

 

TPS I bought

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, AndyR34GTT said:

Mine doesn’t have two plugs . It’s a 1998 rb25det Neo. I didn’t touch that sensor I removed the one in the back which is the mechanical tps which is measured by the throttle / pedal . 

 

 

TPS I bought

Yeh man what you bought is the TPS. Exactly what's circled in the picture I sent, non Neo's sometimes have 2 plugs but that doesn't change the procedure of setting the correct TPS voltage

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great to hear ! Thanks 🙏  waiting for my iacv gasket to get it back together and pray it starts. I’m worried it’s clogged injectors , cam angle sensor , or block is shot . I plan to do tests on all this need week . 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Problem solved 

 

Things I did , 

 

replaced fuel filter, tps sensor , air fuel meter , iacv gasket (had to since I removed it to clean it)

 

other things I did was removed spark plugs and cleaned , checked all coil packs and retighten down packs , cleaned iacv valve , hollowed out oem cat (looked super clogged), reset ecu , cleaned AFM apexi filter pod .

 

not sure what did it but I’m assuming it was either tps or air flow meter / dirty filter 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey team,  The clutch on my newly bought 25 swapped r32 feels average and sticks half way. Went to go order a new clutch master but it does not look like the ones that suit the one that’s in the car…    does anyone know what clutch master is this just by looking ?  (The feed is on the side rather than the bottom like the ones the pop up online)  thanks guys new to the RB scene so any help is appreciated cheers !!
    • Id be more than happy to sign up!!! Where do I send the invoices for my fuel usage? I'm happy to provide the mower, oil, and the labour to abuse the motor, just a little help on fuel would be great...   I had tipped the container of oil out into my big "drip tray" and left the small container upside down to drain the oil out of itself overnight. PIcked the container up today, and it has a layer of what feels like either dirt, or shit tonnes of carbon in the bottom of the container. I'm leaning towards it likely being dust, as I doubt the quality of the Sunli BumbleBee having a decent air filter on it, and sections of my yard produce a dust storm, especially because of the high lift blade!   So, filled her up with some fresh Nulon. Seemed to run fine, but it seems to want to run at really high RPM (higher than normal) even with the governor spring slacked off after fire up to try reduce it. If I back the throttle off it a bit to drop the rpm to where I'd like it to be when mowing light grass, it starts to blow a bit of smoke out the exhaust. Opening the throttle back up clears that out. It's definitely breathing oil, as I put my hand down at the breather hose and it's spitting some oil.   My guess is it having been running at high rpm, oil never changed, and it eating dust has destroyed the rings. You know what that means? Time to send it!!!
    • That is what will seal with the bonnet closed. Follow it down while closing the bonnet to see where it ends up with the bonnet closed. The panels don't do anything other than spending money, which this one will do just fine. :p
    • Nah just send me a photo or a drawing and I'll tell you which is better.  It's a new SAU service.
    • Yes, well, one or the other. On R32 (which is the only thing I can look at personally) it's on the rad support panel. You have neither, and it will need to be on one or the other. I must say that the arrangement of holes perhaps looks more like it lives on the bonnet underside on the R34. The rad support panel doesn't look like the R32 one at all. A quick google shows....
×
×
  • Create New...