Knocking/Tapping sound diagnosis
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Yeah mate, I’m not 100% how much damage this water has done to the crank and internals. At the moment my mate is sending me whole inlet man with injectors rail to bolt on. in the future it’s gonna get a decent amount of boost prob around 400-500hp so this motor is just gonna get it on the road and registered. see how it goes. Stage two turbo is still a long way off.
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You should throw rebuild kits at the injectors while they're out...they pretty much need it anyhow at this age in life.. 😃
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By fletch rb30 · Posted
How much is it pushing down on the PS belt? What if you slot the top hole in the mounting bracket so it can rotate toward the PS pump and raise the idler enough to get it off the AC belt. In my experience with some mates drift cars, the belt gets flicked off on the sudden decrease in crank pulley speed on the limiter or downshift in a dog box. We came up with a good fix for the 2J using some Mazda timing belt idler that was just resting on the belt and stopped the belt coming off on some cars that were chronic for it. -
Might be a stupid question, but if you wanted to just change the face plate (not the whole cluster) to a higher km one, how would one go getting the cluster recalibrated or it doesn't work?
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Ok, bit of an update with whats working.. - i think it's the fuel staying on (when i perhaps shouldn't be) at zero demand that causing the lungeing. I say this because when playing around and trying to learn about fuel cut/zero demand settings i got it to lunge bad at 30-40km/h whilst decelerating. It's almost as if the fuelling is fighting the natural engine braking and the chassis 'bounces' against the backlash in the driveline (diff especially), making it worse. I had a forester GT (w/aftermarket ecm) that used to do it, and i couldn't work out why. - map prediction works awesome with drivability, made a big difference straight away. I'll keep working on it, esp the idle quality with and without aircon. Thanks again for the help lads!
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