Synthetic oil versus conventional oil

[PranK]

Super cool if you like geeking out on oil.

 

I especially love the testing done with cars that just ran for 500,000 miles. 

[Predator1]

Thats actually excellent! Its a good thing I havent used semi in my daily. Even on my folks cars, I mostly use fully syn oils.

Im pretty pedantic when it comes to oiling.. on my R, i usually fill about 8-9L, and every 1500-2000ks, I drop it(and the oil cooler and lines), and stick some cheap semi(oops), idle it or drive it around the block for 5 mins, then dump it...and only then do I stick some more liquid gold in. 

[PranK]

1 hour ago, Predator1 said:

Thats actually excellent! Its a good thing I havent used semi in my daily. Even on my folks cars, I mostly use fully syn oils.

Im pretty pedantic when it comes to oiling.. on my R, i usually fill about 8-9L, and every 1500-2000ks, I drop it(and the oil cooler and lines), and stick some cheap semi(oops), idle it or drive it around the block for 5 mins, then dump it...and only then do I stick some more liquid gold in. 

That is pretty pedantic, but I love it.

The N54 in my car is notorious for not coping with shit oil or shit oil change intervals. I'm tempted to adopt your strategy! 

[GTSBoy]

By contrast, my car gets decent Penrite synth once per year, at somewhere north of 10000km intervals.

[Butters]

You can imagine the combo of non synth + neglect to change = some of the horror motors that are caked in oil sludge. 

[joshuaho96]

There have been some recent formulation changes in oil to help reduce timing chain wear in GDI engines but there is truth to what mechanics say when they tell people to change their oil early and often. GDI contaminates the engine oil with ultrafine particulates that are relatively abrasive and won't get filtered out by the filter.

[Predator1]

2 hours ago, PranK said:

That is pretty pedantic, but I love it.

The N54 in my car is notorious for not coping with shit oil or shit oil change intervals. I'm tempted to adopt your strategy! 

Yep, I heard too, plus the earlier N54's tend to run hotter as well, IIRC? Im guessing you have a oil cooler too? Sometimes, I used to stock up the fully syn oil that was on christmas special.. id buy like 6-8 4L bottles. I prefer to do that instead of running engine flush.

[PranK]

3 minutes ago, Predator1 said:

Yep, I heard too, plus the earlier N54's tend to run hotter as well, IIRC? Im guessing you have a oil cooler too? Sometimes, I used to stock up the fully syn oil that was on christmas special.. id buy like 6-8 4L bottles. I prefer to do that instead of running engine flush.

Yep, N54 operating temp as high as 108. Factory oil cooler in front of drivers front wheel. 

Bro in law and I go crazy on oil at the Supercheap sales. Need to add some crap oil now too and follow your lead!  

[PranK]

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

By contrast, my car gets decent Penrite synth once per year, at somewhere north of 10000km intervals.

Yeah I'm similar with Nulon but will be switching to Mobil 1 as per mechanics recommendation. I don't get near 10,000 k's a yeah but I'd prefer the yearly limit anyway.

2 hours ago, Butters said:

You can imagine the combo of non synth + neglect to change = some of the horror motors that are caked in oil sludge. 

Yep. "Customer states ... " 

[MBS206]

You guys change your oil?

And spend more than what the home brand oil is worth?! 😮

 

 

Actually, that reminds me, mower needs an oil change, the oil has gotten a bit thick and gunky. I don't think it's happy pushing an extra 1000rpm constantly...

[MBS206]

Alright guys, this thread really got to me, so I thought I'd do the best thing I can, and change the mowers oil.

 

So here is a photo of me draining it. To be totally honest, I see nothing wrong here, and think there's easily another 5 years in this oils life.

But, now I've hit my next conundrum, some twit drained the oil, without having bought any new oil... Should I splurge and use olive oil, or will canola oil do?

 

On a serious note, I'm undecided if I REALLY need to buy 4 stroke mower oil, but some claim normal motor oil doesn't have extra zinc or some shit in it.

 

Also, mower has started getting blow by, it isn't pumping oil out the breather, but it is pumping out a lot of exhaust gas... Which is then making the mower hunt a lot... I'm think atmospheric vent, with a filter...

PS, this is a mower I was given years ago, have had to rebuild the carb, build my own blades for it, fix up valve clearances, and then make it really sing way above any rpm it wants while I punish it in the back easement, so no, I'm not spending anything more than I need to. The thought of buying an air filter is bad enough to me and I'm searching for one I think I had on a catch can...

 

So while this mower is a cheapo, flogged to death, revived, flogged again, revived, flogged again, and now being turned into a zombie, does any one know if I'll seriously shorten it's life if I use something like Nulon X-Pro 5w-30, or HPR 5 5w-40 instead of spending stupid money to buy SAE30 4 stroke lawn mower oil? (And yes, if I drank alcohol I'd happily pee in the fuel tank instead of putting fuel in it... At this stage I'm siphoning year old 98 fuel from the Subaru each time I need to refill the jerry... )

 

So... Input?

 

[The Bogan]

2 hours ago, MBS206 said:

Alright guys, this thread really got to me, so I thought I'd do the best thing I can, and change the mowers oil.

 

So here is a photo of me draining it. To be totally honest, I see nothing wrong here, and think there's easily another 5 years in this oils life.

But, now I've hit my next conundrum, some twit drained the oil, without having bought any new oil... Should I splurge and use olive oil, or will canola oil do?

 

On a serious note, I'm undecided if I REALLY need to buy 4 stroke mower oil, but some claim normal motor oil doesn't have extra zinc or some shit in it.

 

Also, mower has started getting blow by, it isn't pumping oil out the breather, but it is pumping out a lot of exhaust gas... Which is then making the mower hunt a lot... I'm think atmospheric vent, with a filter...

PS, this is a mower I was given years ago, have had to rebuild the carb, build my own blades for it, fix up valve clearances, and then make it really sing way above any rpm it wants while I punish it in the back easement, so no, I'm not spending anything more than I need to. The thought of buying an air filter is bad enough to me and I'm searching for one I think I had on a catch can...

 

So while this mower is a cheapo, flogged to death, revived, flogged again, revived, flogged again, and now being turned into a zombie, does any one know if I'll seriously shorten it's life if I use something like Nulon X-Pro 5w-30, or HPR 5 5w-40 instead of spending stupid money to buy SAE30 4 stroke lawn mower oil? (And yes, if I drank alcohol I'd happily pee in the fuel tank instead of putting fuel in it... At this stage I'm siphoning year old 98 fuel from the Subaru each time I need to refill the jerry... )

 

So... Input?

 

I've done a couple of oil changes on a 30 year old petrol Victa that the outlaws use to own, over the 15 years that we have had it I have ever only used whatever engine oil that was on hand, 5w30 to Castrol Edge 10w60

From my findings, of 2 oil changes in it over 15 years, where the outlaws never changed its oil, the first was when we inherited it, to the last, a couple of years ago, the mower doesn't care, as long as it has oil it is happy

As for blowby, just stick something thick in it and mow the lawn, or, use a thinner oil and just tell yourself it's a 2 stroke and clean the plug when required, the spark plug in the Victa was last changed 10 odd years ago, and still fires up now after a couple of goes on the cord, if it doesn't start, a quick hit with some wet and dry to clean the spark plug gets it running again

I really need to get it some new blades though, the ones on it have been resharpened to the point that they are about half their size and are not really throwing the grass as well as they should

As for the carby on it, it has never been touched, although I do run 98 in as well, for all of horsetorques

[PranK]

You both need to run those mowers side by side for 10 years straight and report on oil and intervals condition. 

[MBS206]

1 hour ago, The Bogan said:

I've done a couple of oil changes on a 30 year old petrol Victa that the outlaws use to own, over the 15 years that we have had it I have ever only used whatever engine oil that was on hand, 5w30 to Castrol Edge 10w60

From my findings, of 2 oil changes in it over 15 years, where the outlaws never changed its oil, the first was when we inherited it, to the last, a couple of years ago, the mower doesn't care, as long as it has oil it is happy

As for blowby, just stick something thick in it and mow the lawn, or, use a thinner oil and just tell yourself it's a 2 stroke and clean the plug when required, the spark plug in the Victa was last changed 10 odd years ago, and still fires up now after a couple of goes on the cord, if it doesn't start, a quick hit with some wet and dry to clean the spark plug gets it running again

I really need to get it some new blades though, the ones on it have been resharpened to the point that they are about half their size and are not really throwing the grass as well as they should

As for the carby on it, it has never been touched, although I do run 98 in as well, for all of horsetorques

Ive been digging pretty harshly on oil info tonight. Seems like you're mostly right, except they do have some info that in the higher temps (like SEQ), I should push more to SAE30, but otherwise, meh.

 

Also, felt the oil, it doesn't feel very oily any more... It also had a light smell of fuel...

 

As for starting, well, I've already abandoned the pull start, as it failed. Cord rotted, and metal throwout things rusted up and jammed.

So now I use a battery drill and a socket... Electric start FTW!

 

Also sharpened the blade while I was at it tonight. She was very dull...

Mark, for blades, make your own. They're just mild steel.

 

I made mine to be a high lift blade. It really throws the grass in the catcher. Might have been a little too high on the lift though... It was enough that it started to bend the blade tips down towards the earth... Ha ha ha I may have put some epic angle and size on my wings...

Edited September 13 by MBS206

[The Bogan]

8 hours ago, PranK said:

You both need to run those mowers side by side for 10 years straight and report on oil and intervals condition. 

And send some oil samples for testing? 🤔.....nope, I'll just keep using until it throws a leg out of bed

[PranK]

5 hours ago, The Bogan said:

And send some oil samples for testing? 🤔.....nope, I'll just keep using until it throws a leg out of bed

Nah just send me a photo or a drawing and I'll tell you which is better. 

It's a new SAU service.

[MBS206]

2 hours ago, PranK said:

Nah just send me a photo or a drawing and I'll tell you which is better. 

It's a new SAU service.

Id be more than happy to sign up!!!

Where do I send the invoices for my fuel usage?

I'm happy to provide the mower, oil, and the labour to abuse the motor, just a little help on fuel would be great...

 

I had tipped the container of oil out into my big "drip tray" and left the small container upside down to drain the oil out of itself overnight.

PIcked the container up today, and it has a layer of what feels like either dirt, or shit tonnes of carbon in the bottom of the container. I'm leaning towards it likely being dust, as I doubt the quality of the Sunli BumbleBee having a decent air filter on it, and sections of my yard produce a dust storm, especially because of the high lift blade!

 

So, filled her up with some fresh Nulon.

Seemed to run fine, but it seems to want to run at really high RPM (higher than normal) even with the governor spring slacked off after fire up to try reduce it.

If I back the throttle off it a bit to drop the rpm to where I'd like it to be when mowing light grass, it starts to blow a bit of smoke out the exhaust. Opening the throttle back up clears that out.

It's definitely breathing oil, as I put my hand down at the breather hose and it's spitting some oil.

 

My guess is it having been running at high rpm, oil never changed, and it eating dust has destroyed the rings.

You know what that means?

Time to send it!!!

[TurboTapin]

Anytime I still have a small amount of new oil left after an oil change on one of our cars, I dump it into a container. It's a concoction of different weights that I like to believe evens out to a 10W-30. I do an oil change every year on both my tractor and mower using that oil. Mower is at least 12 years old, and my tractor is about 5 and sat 2 weeks under 10 feet of water. Both still run great! 

[niZmO_Man]

Mate, you think that's bad.
I drained the oil from my cousin's daily (she needs it to get to work, a nurse). Only after dumping the oil did I realise that the sump plug was stripped and would not get out of the pan. Thankfully Accord group Syd on Facebook had a guy nearbuy with a K-whatever sump on hand, super duper lucky. Swapped the pan and had her car going within 24hr.

bloody hell, learnt my lesson. Always check all fasteners before starting a job.

[r32-25t]

I should change the oil in my Ute, can’t remember the last time I did it. Can promise there won’t be any putting shitty oil in and changing it again though