Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I’ve decided to swap out these old carrozzeria ts-a70w in the rear parcel shelf for some pioneers while I’m sound deadening, I’m looking at the wiring and none of it makes sense it’s all mixed up and a mess…. 
 

any ideas am I better off running new lines there is a lot going on in the boot with wires running everywhere and terminals everywhere.

IMG_4780.jpeg

IMG_4781.jpeg

IMG_4782.jpeg

IMG_4783.jpeg

IMG_4784.jpeg

Edited by 32pwwr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485797-any-sound-system-gurus/
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Looks like it's going to an amplifier somewhere.

Might as well rip out the lot and run a new amp, and head unit with Android Auto / crApple Car Play

There’s no amp looks like at one stage there was as there is a separate black plug laying back there.

 

considered Apple car play but the double din means i sacrifice my aircon or gauges haha 

Edited by 32pwwr

The original soundsystem had a small amp hanging under the parcel shelf. Thus, the original speaker wires in the rear only go as far as that amp. The input wires to that amp came from the front of the car and that may well be the loose plug.

There is absolutely no way that anyone who is not present standing at your car can help you understand that bunch of wires in your photos. It has clearly been modified away from what the original wiring was, and thus we can't know what we're looking at.

You just need to put in time and effort to identify where those wires come from. Once you understand that, you can then decide on what you want to do with them. If they are good sized speaker wires that possibly came with the previous speakers and the connectors on them will suit your new speakers and you're happy to run them from whatever amplifier (ie, even just the headunit) that they're currently already connected to....then you could just reuse them.

If they have been hacked and twisted together and so on, then abandon ship and start afresh.

  • Like 2
5 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

The original soundsystem had a small amp hanging under the parcel shelf. Thus, the original speaker wires in the rear only go as far as that amp. The input wires to that amp came from the front of the car and that may well be the loose plug.

There is absolutely no way that anyone who is not present standing at your car can help you understand that bunch of wires in your photos. It has clearly been modified away from what the original wiring was, and thus we can't know what we're looking at.

You just need to put in time and effort to identify where those wires come from. Once you understand that, you can then decide on what you want to do with them. If they are good sized speaker wires that possibly came with the previous speakers and the connectors on them will suit your new speakers and you're happy to run them from whatever amplifier (ie, even just the headunit) that they're currently already connected to....then you could just reuse them.

If they have been hacked and twisted together and so on, then abandon ship and start afresh.

I might start fresh, there’s just to much going on to understand and no auto elec will come look at it for 2 speakers for a reasonable price lol and I’ve already done the front speakers myself. 

9 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

The original soundsystem had a small amp hanging under the parcel shelf. Thus, the original speaker wires in the rear only go as far as that amp. The input wires to that amp came from the front of the car and that may well be the loose plug.

There is absolutely no way that anyone who is not present standing at your car can help you understand that bunch of wires in your photos. It has clearly been modified away from what the original wiring was, and thus we can't know what we're looking at.

You just need to put in time and effort to identify where those wires come from. Once you understand that, you can then decide on what you want to do with them. If they are good sized speaker wires that possibly came with the previous speakers and the connectors on them will suit your new speakers and you're happy to run them from whatever amplifier (ie, even just the headunit) that they're currently already connected to....then you could just reuse them.

If they have been hacked and twisted together and so on, then abandon ship and start afresh.

I ended up pulling the wires and found only the green and grey lead to the stereo, the yellow and black were connected to nothing and just pulled them out

IMG_4788.jpeg

On 04/09/2024 at 7:14 PM, 32pwwr said:

I ended up pulling the wires and found only the green and grey lead to the stereo, the yellow and black were connected to nothing and just pulled them out

IMG_4788.jpeg

Jesus...

Rip it all out, start again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mate you saved be from dying in the Perth summer. AC wasn't changing direction and just going into diagnostics mode fixed it. You're a legend and I would shout you a beer if I could!
    • Unfortunately effort gone to waste, you will have substantial issues with how the manifold and wastegate have been integrated. You would be so much better off with a modified stock manifold like this: https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25detexgatedmanifold/   OR literally just getting a off the shelf Sinco or 6Boost manifold as myself and others have mentioned.  
    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
×
×
  • Create New...