Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I bought the Redline diff oil and the seller has sent me Redline 75W90NS even though that’s not what’s pictured. 
I’ve already booked a hoist to go and change my diff tomorrow but I’m not sure if the NS is ok for the rear diff in a R34 GTT

I think the NS does not have any slip modifiers so would that be an issue? 
 

thanks in advance 

image.jpg

On 26/09/2024 at 3:05 PM, GTSBoy said:

You do not need an LSD oil in any stock (non-GTR) diff, even if it is an "LSD". This because none of the (non-GTR) LSDs are clutch/friction type LSDs. Either viscous or helical - neither of which require an LSD oil.

Great to know!

The guys from The Skyline Shed are going to sort it out and send what I ordered anyway. Turns out their supplier sent them the wrong stock. 
But it's good to know I "can" put this in if needed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Adjusting the idle screw is usually (emphasis on usually) just covering up deeper issues. Stuff like the cold start valve not closing properly. Throttle shaft seals on the way out. Coolant temp sensors getting out of spec. Coolant temp sensors especially can be a bear to diagnose because they can fail subtly. My dad just spent weeks chasing down his high idle. He cleaned the coolant temp sensor and everything but the resistance curve just drifts over time and if it's been 20+ years they also get super slow to respond as well. Has a massive effect on fuel economy as if it's off the ECU is going to run richer and command high idle for far longer than it should otherwise.
    • How old is the battery, it's more likely your battery is on its way out.
    • I reckon you'd get 90% off. My washer doesn't get between spokes very well. Haha! I love my Gerni!  Argh! Steam cleaning has its place for sure.
    • Hey all, I did a voltage test with the car (video attached) not running for 3 days. And here is some interesting stuff: - Battery voltage is 12v (I had the key in the ON position) - Drops to 9.76v while cranking then quickly goes up to 14.5v - You will notice there was a sorta slow start but not as slow as it usually is. - Idle surprisingly was better at just over 1,000rpm instead of 1,100 rpm. - I turned on the A/C, radio and headlights in the video and the voltage remains the same - I haven't cleaned the grounding wires on the chassis yet, that's next. - Battery drops to 12.6v when I turn off the car and wait a bit Seems like I might have a parasitic draw? I do have an immobiliser system which does drain the battery more of course but was wondering if there is anything else I should be looking at fixing? Does the ground wires on the chassis have anything to do with the low 12v?        SAU.avi
    • My lord that is some low oil pressure as minimum in the manual! I guess the big part will be seeing how it changes as the engine gets more spirited use.
×
×
  • Create New...