Jump to content
SAU Community

Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

OO Dan OO
 Share

Recommended Posts

OO Dan OO Contributor

OO Dan OO

Posted
Posted

I have recently fitted a Nismo GT Pro Center second Hand buy still in the box

i got stubs with it but they are 5 bolt and I need 6 (3x2) I was told by Just Jap that for a 4:36 ratio the stub axles are equal length sku 38220-0V161. They didn't have any in stock but I picked up the ones pictured. The one with 5 bolt are the ones that came with the LSD.

The right side went in no issues but the right....I have happened the fk out of it put it in a press and it still sticks out about 5mm too far. It was sticking out about 25mm but after bashing it like Chris Brown did to Rhianna I managed to get it a bit further in but seems stuck again now. Any ideas? Should I just leave it 5mm out and send it?

 

 

 

 

IMG_1727.jpeg

IMG_1724.jpeg

IMG_1707.jpeg

IMG_1706.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
r32-25t Grand Master

r32-25t

Posted
Posted

If those shafts in the last 2 photos are the ones that came with the diff, you have no hope of fitting the other ones because they are completely different 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
OO Dan OO Contributor

OO Dan OO

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It depends on what the guy who bought its Ratio is. Mine is a 4.36 Jus Jap told me anything above a 3:9 has equal length shafts which the Nismo center's shafts were not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Butters Experienced

Butters

Posted
Posted

From memory and please correct me if I have this wrong, the nismo that come with half shafts are specific for that diff centre. You may be able to find Nissan ones that match up but you'd need to understand what nismo are doing. 

 

Best option is get  a pair of 5x1 axles, they usually don't cost that much and direct swap over for the 3x2(6 bollt) 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, Butters said:

Best option is get  a pair of 5x1 axles, they usually don't cost that much and direct swap over for the 3x2(6 bollt)

Actually, the best option is probably to get some of the stronger aftermarket driveshafts that have both the 5x1 and 3x2 pattern on them, so OP can do whatever the hell OP likes with the diff in the future and not have all this angst.

I posted a link to them sometime in the last 2 weeks, I'm sure.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
r32-25t Grand Master

r32-25t

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, OO Dan OO said:

It depends on what the guy who bought its Ratio is. Mine is a 4.36 Jus Jap told me anything above a 3:9 has equal length shafts which the Nismo center's shafts were not.

those 2 sets of shafts will not interchange and if you’re lucky you haven’t damaged anything with all your pressing and bashing you said you’ve done 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
OO Dan OO Contributor

OO Dan OO

Posted
  • Author
Posted
13 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

AFAIK, the length of the shafts has NOTHING to do with the ratio of the diff.

 The manual says a lot about the different ratios requiring different shafts.

all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.

IMG_1728.jpeg

IMG_1728.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
OO Dan OO Contributor

OO Dan OO

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      RB gearbox options

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • OO Dan OO
      Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

      By OO Dan OO · Posted

      I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
    • OO Dan OO
      Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

      By OO Dan OO · Posted

      The manual says a lot about the different ratios requiring different shafts. all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.
    • r32-25t
      Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

      By r32-25t · Posted

      those 2 sets of shafts will not interchange and if you’re lucky you haven’t damaged anything with all your pressing and bashing you said you’ve done 
    • TurboTapin
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Freshly built stroked RB25/28. Motor runs great but consumes a lot more oil then It should. This summer with the heat I was consuming roughly a quart per 1800-2000kms. Now with the cold weather coming in, I'm consuming a quart per 1000kms which is no bueno. I had originally chalked this out to break in taking a little longer then it should, but I'm now around 4000km's on this engine. I think it's fair to say something isn't quite right. Here's the kicker, can't find what's causing it. I've also spoken to my engine builder and Precision Turbo and can't figure it out. Here's my train of thought on possible causes and what I've done.  Precision Turbo - I originally started thinking my oil pressure might be a tad too high for my 6466 Gen2. I took the center cartridge out, and while yes there's signs of oil on the turbine heatshield, it's very moderate. There's also very minor in/out play that concerns me. I sent pictures and videos to precision and they said the residue and in/out play is minimal and they doubt this is the issue. For piece of mind, I went ahead and installed a Turbosmart OPR V2 to bring oil pressure down. Made no difference. Precision is willing to take it in on RMA for an inspection and I'll probably take them up on that offer for peace of mind. BTW. Is it just me or does the turbines inducer's look clipped and not even between each other? I just noticed this now while posting and looking at the picture zoomed in. Might just be the picture...  Rings - Hot compression test and leak down test look good. Compression is 160 +-2psi across the board. I leak down at 16% on cyl 1,2,3,5,6 and 18% on cyl4. Keep in mind I have a snap on leak down tester and they read high (I.E, 15% on my wifes 2018 Sentra with 70000kms). Sparkplugs show minimal oil (Only #4 seems to have a tad). At a quart per 1000km's though, I would be expecting them to be wet. Here's the kicker, I run WMI. I'm thinking what if my compression rings are great, but I have an oil control ring issue on cyl4 and my WMI is steam cleaning the pistons and sparkplugs? I can still see the "Spool" logo on top of my CP pistons. The only time I see smoke out of the exhaust is in the high rpm/load range. So far, this is my main culprit. I'll probably turn off my WMI and go out with the car at spring pressure tomorrow and repull the plugs. Other thing that's strange though is that I have never seen any oil in my catch can. Thing is still dry after 4000kms. Cyl1 - Left, Cyl6 - Right. Valve seals - They're new and I would expect oil consumption on idle, first cold start or during decel. None of which is happening.  Crankcase pressure - I have 2x 10an valve cover lines to a vented catch can. Head drain and opened up internal oil drain paths. I also don't run E85. I've never seen any oil in my catch can. Doubtful this is causing any issues.  Rear main seal - I have no visible leaks, but figured maybe it was my rear main seal. After now having added 2-3 quarts, I would expect oil to leak out the bottom drain channel and/or my clutch to be slipping.  Let me know your thoughts. With winter coming and taking the car off the road until spring, I'm fine with pulling the motor apart but I would hate to take it all apart and the turbo was the issue in the end.   
×
×
  • Create New...