Jump to content
SAU Community

Is this pressure plate warped? And do I need a new one?


Recommended Posts

IMG_7793.thumb.jpeg.c44e98c04e6995fa240dfb90b815f59b.jpegIMG_7792.thumb.jpeg.c5d5af3bf15bdbd776e78a8896c411b8.jpeg

Pretty simple question. I was about to put the transmission back in and thought I pretty much had it lined up when I noticed it seems like the pressure plate isn't flat. I was pretty careful when undoing the bolts both during initial disassembly for cleaning and when torquing them up for installation so this is pretty discouraging. I'm not sure if I accidentally bumped the pressure plate with the input shaft and bent it somehow or if it just showed up this way. Is it possible that there's just something obvious I'm not doing correctly? I'm pretty sure I was extremely careful to make sure the friction discs were seated correctly in the hub, everything lined up, flywheel torqued according to sequence, the little springs all sitting correctly in their seats, etc. 

What's the play here? Do I jump straight to a new pressure plate?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

I was going to say, "What am I looking at?"....then I saw it.

Um.... dismantle and have a look? I've not seen that before. Looks broken.

The instructions mention making sure the pressure plate is even/flat but doesn't really mention the possible causes of the pressure plate being warped like this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

Normally fingers bent or broken will cause the above.

Has this pressure plate been used before? Was the gearbox left hanging from the clutch while removing the gearbox?

This is brand new. It's possible the input shaft hung up on the pressure plate while trying to wrestle the transmission into position, I wasn't up at the front of the bellhousing to monitor exactly what happened. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, r32-25t said:

What about after you put it back together again?

Miraculously warps again despite every possible method of trying to ensure even torque on the bolts. I'm very tempted to blame the pressure plate at this point. Everything else as far as I can tell does not have any runout issues. I double-checked to make sure the friction discs are oriented correctly and the hub is properly seated on the friction discs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Without better pictures, it won't be possible for anyone to work it out further than we have.

 

Start measuring, EVERYTHING.

Thickness of flywheel, and all around it. You want to know is if everything parallel.

If from the face of the pressure plate (that bolts to the flywheel) if it is parallel to the pressure plate face, then something is NOT parallel or equal elsewhere. Or you've bent the shit out of the fingers in the pressure plate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, MBS206 said:

Without better pictures, it won't be possible for anyone to work it out further than we have.

 

Start measuring, EVERYTHING.

Thickness of flywheel, and all around it. You want to know is if everything parallel.

If from the face of the pressure plate (that bolts to the flywheel) if it is parallel to the pressure plate face, then something is NOT parallel or equal elsewhere. Or you've bent the shit out of the fingers in the pressure plate.

It was simpler than that. Few things going on. One is that I hate plastic clutch alignment tools. Anybody who reads this in the future and is considering one, don't. Even for 3 USD it's not worth it. Mine left plastic shreds all over the inside of the clutch hub. Now I need a proper steel one and to re-grease the hub splines very carefully without leaving any excess that could go into the friction disk or anywhere else unintended.

The second is that I'm bad at reading directions. There is a step in the instruction manual that tells you to put in the 3 M6 bolts BEFORE you attempt to put the clutch onto the flywheel which has been bolted to the crank. You should tighten them slowly and evenly in half turn increments so the springs all compress evenly. Once hand tight back it off until the friction disk can move around between the midplate and the pressure plate. Otherwise the hub won't be able to move properly to line up everything.

The last point which is possibly the most important and is not mentioned in the manual or anywhere at all is that the friction disks are actually not symmetrical. There is a very, very subtle asymmetry to the fingers where they mesh with the hub. These fingers need to be pointing towards the midplate. This helps to make sure the friction disks stay engaged with the hub. Otherwise there is a distinct risk they pop up and out of the hub while you assemble, leading to the warped pressure plate I posted initially.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am going to chime in here and say that is very bad advice for a built motor, making decent power of 400kW+ Especially if the rings have been gapped on the looser side. The more power you make the heavier you need your oil to be to be able to maintain that suspension between the moving parts, if not you'll have journals and bearings making love and grenade a motor. Remember that all moving parts inside the motor aren't ball bearing and are journal bearings and require oil to separate the surfaces from contacting.
    • Yeah I noticed this just now. No doubt she will be running smoother next start😂🤣😂
    • ENR34 manual transmission transfer cases are 33100-23U00 which is shared with all of the R32/R33 GT-Rs and GTS-4s. And the C34 Stagea. Do not bother with automatics, that is a huge effort to swap and the car will be worse for it. And an automatic transfer case does not have the right housing for the shifter which comes out the back of the transmission and goes through the transfer case. I already posted my response on reddit but if you didn't see it there here it is: You have almost certainly damaged the transfer case, the only question is how badly. Nobody can tell you how bad without more information. If you have a giant hole in the transfer case pissing out all the transfer case fluid then you need a new one. If it's not that bad then the only question is whether you burned up the clutches. Drain the transfer case oil and inspect for metal on the drain plug magnet. Small black filings are normal. Big chunks of metal or a ton of black fuzzies not so much. Fluid should be nice and red. Any other color isn't great. If the color is reasonably red and there's not a bunch of clutch material discoloring it or anything like that you probably got away with insubstantial excess wear not worth trying to fix. If you have to rebuild or replace the transfer case keep in mind you have to pull the transmission to get it off.
    • As promised………… the first start. Rough and a few bugs to work out. Still she lives att.1cnTUvrWxiOZUFbg0S43m1VFUdDhxGBq3UU53bvtkww.mp4
    • Can I suggest a 15W50 oil is too heavy. Its a brand new engine - you should be able to run something like a 10W30. Shove some steel wool into your catch can  - more technically "oil/air separator" - so that the oil vapour has something to condense on.
×
×
  • Create New...