R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

[Joni Boi]

Thanks everyone for the replies/suggestions on my issue here. I'm still trying to diagnose the root cause of this.

Things I have done so far:

A week ago, I disconnected my 12v constant relay mod and returned it to the stock FPCM wiring: I could hear the sound of the fuel priming was different because of the FPCM limiting the amount of volts going to the fuel pump. From memory I think it also primed to 43psi. It was very hard to start it. I don't think from memory I could start it at all. I had to then ground the fuel pump to the chassie and then it could start after a couple of cranks. Fuel pressure did drop a bit to about 45psi (i think). It was idling even worse than before. 🤔 It was also doing the same weird RPM tacho thing. So I've returned it back to the constant 12v relay mod for now as I investigate more.

Right now, I'm in the process of deleting my aftermarket immobilizer, an old Japanese turbo timer, and another aftermarket transponder immobilizer that the previous owners put in years ago (from sexspec days). 

Just curious to see if this whole bird nest would cause some weird electrical problems. The Viper 5900 immobilizer stopped working a few years ago, and I pulled out the main fuse on it years ago to stop it from being a parasitic battery drain and I haven't bothered to clean up the mess there, so now is a good time to. There was a RPM signal wire that spliced into the RPM tacho signal from the ECU harness. I've taken it out.

I've already pulled out the Viper immobilizer and returned all the joints wires/splices back to factory. I let the car idle and it's still the same idle and RPM tacho idle issue.

Now I'm going to delete the turbo timer and the other key transponder immobilizer (autowatch) and return splicing/wiring back to factory setup. Just to see if this might be causing some electrical issues. It might not, but I just want to get rid of it anyway.

On 16/10/2024 at 6:26 PM, luke gtr said:

TL;DR

Not sure if checked, but confirm no blockage in the vac/boost reference line to the ecu. 

Have had rich and fluctuating idle from a blocked line and ecu could read that it was under vacuum(no MAF).

True!, I was actually thinking this the other day. I will check with another new vac line to make sure this is not the issue.

 

On 17/10/2024 at 9:48 AM, MBS206 said:

Go get some fresh gas from a totally different servo, jerry rig a fuel pump, and run the new tank supply to the fuel input at the motor.

 

There's every possibility you've got really shit fuel, thats possibly full of water etc.

This is actually on my to-do list, and you might be right, this might be a shit batch of fuel because I filled the tank up to 3/4 full from near empty, then I went to the shops and it happened straight after that. I've always filled up from this servo for years with no problems, but yeah might be my first batch ever batch of shit fuel from them. Will be doing this next when I get my hands on a container/jerry can. I just didn't think to do this straight away because it doesn't really explain why the tacho RPM thing is happening. Maybe I'll chuck some injector cleaner in the new batch too?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Post up your data logs, might help provide insight to what is going on.

[Joni Boi]

Update on this situation:

(Forgot to put in my previous post that I bought another brand new pressure gauge and fuel shows the same 50psi)

I've deleted all the aftermarket immobilizers and turbo timer shyt and placed all factory wiring back to normal. The problem is still the same and nothing changed, but atleast it's a bit more tidier under the steering wheel.

I've also siphoned out all the old fuel and then poured new batch of BP98 fuel (about 15L) into the tank. Nothing changed. Still the same idle. I also changed out the MAP vac line with a new one and, still the same. 

So 2 days ago, I thought fk it. I'll just change out the fuel rail and injectors with another set that I know worked well in my brother's R34 a while back. That other fuel rail has the exact same Xspurt 640cc as what I have right now. So I changed it out to that other fuel rail and injectors (new O-rings) and injector harness. Put everything back together, started the engine,

 

and yeah... still the same 50psi and idle problem. 🫠

I can also hear each of injector's solenoids running when I put a screw driver to it and have the other end to my ear. I might get a noid light just to confirm pulsasion but yeah, very strange that both fuel rails and injectors put out 50psi. 

On 23/10/2024 at 7:56 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Post up your data logs, might help provide insight to what is going on.

31-10-2024.csv

I've attached it here. I started recording, then started the engine and let it idle with no throttle, then at the end I applied a little throttle and then stopped recording. 

 

So, now idk. I'm going to see if swapping out the brand new R35 coils to my old splits fires will change anything.

🤷‍♂️

Edited November 1 by Joni Boi

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Data looks rock solid?

I'm assuming you jabbed the throttle twice OR once? the TPS voltage moves up and down twice, however you've mentioned you did it once.

[Joni Boi]

11 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Data looks rock solid?

I'm assuming you jabbed the throttle twice OR once? the TPS voltage moves up and down twice, however you've mentioned you did it once.

Yeah I think i did jab it twice.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

1 hour ago, Joni Boi said:

Yeah I think i did jab it twice.

From a data perspective, nothing really is out of the ordinary 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

On 09/10/2024 at 2:45 PM, Joni Boi said:

Checked TPS sensor on haltech and it reads correcly. 0.45v no throttle and 4v WOT.

Did you calibrate the throttle in the Haltech?

It might be falling in and out of the closed loop strategy, especially if the car has been tuned on different TPS voltages.

[Joni Boi]

2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Did you calibrate the throttle in the Haltech?

It might be falling in and out of the closed loop strategy, especially if the car has been tuned on different TPS voltages.

Yeah, after my first post i did notice that my tps wasn't calibrated exactly to the tee. So I did calibrate it:

applied the settings, rebooted ecu and it's still the same.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Can you pull logs of the actual idle fluctuations?

The previous logs you posted didn't show any idle issues.

Also if you can log idle duty cycle, idle state, injector duty cycle 

[tylink720]

Any chance the zero demand ignition table is messed up? Or possibly the minimum tps for it to engage zero demand?

[Kinkstaah]

Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol

50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes.

Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that.
Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc?

There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds.

I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird.

When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue.

Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.