Jump to content
SAU Community

HyperGear vs Pulsar Turbo RB25DET

Eric0

By Eric0,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Eric0 Enthusiast

Eric0

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi! 
 

I’m looking to replace my current turbo on my S1 RB25DET in order to make 600HP but maintain responsiveness. I’m looking at the HyperGear ATR43SS-3 in T3 .63 A/R or the Pulsar PSR3576 Gen2 T3 .82 A/R. I’m still learning how turbo sizes effect lag, response, and power band. I’m looking to see if anyone can share their experience with either of these turbos or can recommend another to meet my goal?

These are my mods:

• Running 91 octane most of the time and occasionally E85 on track days

• top mount twin scroll manifold 
• 44mm external wastage 
• 1300CC fuel injectors 
• mishimoto intercooler M-line 
• 3in intercooler pipes 
• g-reddy intake manifold 
• link g4+ 
• NZWiring trigger kit 
• GTR R35 coilpacks 
•  built bottom and top 
• 4” down-pipe and exhaust 

Edited by Eric0
Added type of engine
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Eric0 Enthusiast

Eric0

Posted
  • Author
Posted
30 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Hey Eric, it will help to put your location in your profile. 91 Octane is the lowest quality fuel available in Australia so I'm thinking maybe you mean US 91 not Australian

Hi! That is correct. 91 Octane US. probably similar to P98 AUS. 
 

I’ll update my location 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

93US is 98RON. 91 is a little on the low side to try to push to 600HP, but at least you can control boost to something more conservative when you're not on the good stuff.

Also, we should check. Is that 600HP at the flywheel? Or using the usual pony power yielded by US roller dynos?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Eric0 Enthusiast

Eric0

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

93US is 98RON. 91 is a little on the low side to try to push to 600HP, but at least you can control boost to something more conservative when you're not on the good stuff.

Also, we should check. Is that 600HP at the flywheel? Or using the usual pony power yielded by US roller dynos?

 Gotcha! Thank you for the correction. 
 

The goal would be 600 bald eagle (screech) pony power yielded on a roller dyno, but I’m more interested in responsiveness at low RPM and full-boost before 4000RPM. 
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

well....I'm no turbo selection expert so I'll leave that to others, looks like you've got what you need from a supporting mods side though including the twin scroll manifold; that means you really want a twin scroll turbo to not waste the advantage, it will make the same boost/power a couple of hundred rpm sooner than a single scroll turbo

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Eric0 Enthusiast

Eric0

Posted
  • Author
Posted
12 minutes ago, Duncan said:

well....I'm no turbo selection expert so I'll leave that to others, looks like you've got what you need from a supporting mods side though including the twin scroll manifold; that means you really want a twin scroll turbo to not waste the advantage, it will make the same boost/power a couple of hundred rpm sooner than a single scroll turbo

Awesome! Thank you for the confirmation. We’ll see if anyone has experience with HyperGear, Pulsar, or other turbo brands with good response and overall power. 
 

After more research, I’m leaning towards the HyperGear ATR43SS3 ProR with .63 turbine. This a dyno graph from an RB25DET Neo with following mods:

• 1650cc injectors

• adaptronic plug-in ECU

• 600x300x81mm Intercooler

• 3in exhaust 

• 4in downpipe 

• R35 GTR Coilpacks 

• twin scroll manifold 

• twin 50mm wastegate 

 

What do you think?

39C11004-0D5A-40D9-973F-1372A4A43C38.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

Honestly:

Buy a name brand turbo. Garrett or Borg Warner. Anything else you will be chasing "but why doesn't mine end up like the dyno graphs the sellers post?"

Buying a brand name turbo gets your result right where other people with the same turbo experience.

Also, 600whp in any country - expect your engine to become a consumable. If you're okay with that and can plan for that then all the power to you. Also consider your clutch will suck and your grip will be less than stellar.

Aim at 450whp. You'll have a better car and more fun actually using it, and it'll probably be faster for every scenario with the one exception being drag launching it on drag radials at a drag strip where you might be a tenth faster.

Sincerely,
Wiser, cooler heads.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Honestly:

Buy a name brand turbo. Garrett or Borg Warner. Anything else you will be chasing "but why doesn't mine end up like the dyno graphs the sellers post?"

Buying a brand name turbo gets your result right where other people with the same turbo experience.

Also, 600whp in any country - expect your engine to become a consumable. If you're okay with that and can plan for that then all the power to you. Also consider your clutch will suck and your grip will be less than stellar.

Aim at 450whp. You'll have a better car and more fun actually using it, and it'll probably be faster for every scenario with the one exception being drag launching it on drag radials at a drag strip where you might be a tenth faster.

Sincerely,
Wiser, cooler heads.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Y3mHN8HbG

This is about 450 whp and it's keeping up with a modern GT3 RS. Obviously some caveats to that but I think our brains are all broken by modern car power numbers. It's really everything around the engine that needs to be up to scratch. This particular R32 last time had some random BBK on it and clearly it wasn't good enough because he switched it to AP Racing for this go around. I'm reliably surprised by how much the little things matter when you're modifying cars. Every last detail is critical.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
41 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

I'm reliably surprised by how much the little things matter when you're modifying cars. Every last detail is critical.

Yep, like how people insist VCT does nothing, delete them OR say how twin scroll is a waste of time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

That video is gooooone.

Oops, guess I accidentally deleted the last digit of the video ID.

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Yep, like how people insist VCT does nothing, delete them OR say how twin scroll is a waste of time.

This one drives me nuts. VCT is such a big advantage for basic driveability and it costs very little to do. It's not like we're dealing with an E60 M5 with its dedicated high pressure VVT oil pump + hydraulic line carrying 1000+ psi and all that fun stuff.

I also see a lot of people speak poorly about EGR and try to delete it in modern GDI engines. The problem is modern GDI relies on cooled high pressure EGR to improve timing margin at high load + RPM. So unless you're compensating for it by raising octane you have to completely retune when it's deleted.

Edited by joshuaho96
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      HyperGear vs Pulsar Turbo RB25DET

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oops, guess I accidentally deleted the last digit of the video ID. This one drives me nuts. VCT is such a big advantage for basic driveability and it costs very little to do. It's not like we're dealing with an E60 M5 with its dedicated high pressure VVT oil pump + hydraulic line carrying 1000+ psi and all that fun stuff. I also see a lot of people speak poorly about EGR and try to delete it in modern GDI engines. The problem is modern GDI relies on cooled high pressure EGR to improve timing margin at high load + RPM. So unless you're compensating for it by raising octane you have to completely retune when it's deleted.
    • Joni Boi
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By Joni Boi · Posted

      Yeah, I was just trying to show on camera that the manifold is pulling enough vacuum through that hose to pull the diaphram in the stock fpr but couldn't really hear it on film.  Yeah, it's strange. Fuel should be by-passing through the reg to exit back into the tank thus reducing the fuel pressure: Sorry for my awful drawing here (I like to make diagrams to understand it better 🤪) The (temporary) fuel gauge is plumbed between the fuel filter and dampner. I've already eliminated the possible cause of restriction that the return line might have had and it's not that because I placed a long hose from the FPR (exit from the fuel rail), by-passing the 2nd dampner and return line, then straight into the filler fuel cap (as seen on my first vid). And it was still at 50 psi. Which means that I have a fuel restriction between the 1st dampner and the FPR.  Possible causes: Blockage/restiction in the 1st dampner: I know it's not this because I've swapped it out to a known working one from a spare complete neo engine sitting in the shed. Blockage/restiction in the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR): Also, can't be this because I swapped it out to a known working one from the other engine.  Blockage/restriction in the fuel rail and fuel rail's lines: this could probably be the case. Maybe red rubber grease got in there when I changed the injectors (with new seals) a year ago? Who knows. The only way to know is if I take the bastard off and inspect it (or swap it to the other spare one), which I think I will just have to do.  Injectors causing a restriction in fuel causing high pressure? Could this be? I wouldn't think so? Because even if injectors were completely blocked, fuel would just by-pass them through to the FPR and exit? Let me know if I'm wrong though. Because if that's the case, it could explain some weird electrical shit where the injectors aren't opening enough or something.  Air bubbles in fuel rail? Can this be a thing? Could air get trapped inside the fuel rail and cause high pressure? Shouldn't though right? Faulty pressure gauge? I just grabbed this old pressure gauge that was sitting in our toolbox at work. I'm going to buy another gauge and see if I get the same result just incase. But it reads the priming correctly at 40ish psi. idk... The spare rb25det neo engine that we have in the shed came out of my brother's R34 that was working perfectly fine before we pulled it out to slap a rb30/25det neo in there. It also has the same xsprut 640cc injectors on the fuel rail still. So I might have to swap them out and see what it does. 😮‍💨
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      HyperGear vs Pulsar Turbo RB25DET

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Yep, like how people insist VCT does nothing, delete them OR say how twin scroll is a waste of time.
    • GTSBoy
      HyperGear vs Pulsar Turbo RB25DET

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That video is gooooone.
    • joshuaho96
      HyperGear vs Pulsar Turbo RB25DET

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Y3mHN8HbG This is about 450 whp and it's keeping up with a modern GT3 RS. Obviously some caveats to that but I think our brains are all broken by modern car power numbers. It's really everything around the engine that needs to be up to scratch. This particular R32 last time had some random BBK on it and clearly it wasn't good enough because he switched it to AP Racing for this go around. I'm reliably surprised by how much the little things matter when you're modifying cars. Every last detail is critical.
×
×
  • Create New...