Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Sau community,

I have a mint S1.5 Gunmetal Grey R33 gtst coupe, blueprinted motor, forged pistons, metal head gasket apart from a boost controller, spitfire coilpacks, turbo timer and 2.5inch exhaust with Cat  it's stock.

Looking at advice on a series of upgrades.

Would really appreciate input regarding Haltec Elite, Greddy Plentum,Fuel Rail, Blitz Front mount intercooler, Tein Coilovers and best slotted discs. 

Cheers 🥂 Dan 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485878-new-member-adl-r33-gtst-s15-rb25t/
Share on other sites

Welcome Dan

As you didn't mention the stock turbo, you should probably add a high flow standard turbo to your list and remove plenum and fuel rail as they are not required for a long time.

Yeah I was going to comment on this. Somewhat _unusual_ to have a built, blueprinted motor when everything else is stock?

Nevertheless, the age old wisdom applies: What is your goal for the car? Be honest, and then you later find out what you need. The recipe in the other direction is sadness.

The path is not necessarily "Buy shopping list, car become more fun" 

Yeah, "blueprinted" does not mean "built" (in the common usage of "built" where that means "built tough with forgies and so on"). Blueprinted just means that when it was assembled the bearing clearances and other tolerances were all made to be right in the middle of the range given in the engine manual. Or otherwise to some exact specific value liked/used by the builder or someone else with good knowledge on the best setup.

It is a term that I haven't really heard used by anyone since I stopped reading Street Machine about a million years ago.

  • Thanks 1

Yea, it's also so they can be written down and referenced (and reproduced, really).

My old forged motor was blueprinted... but also funny that a car would exist with a forged motor and nothing else. Entirely possible that a R33 GTST lived its life unmodified and eventually had an engine failure.... but most don't go that way and go down in fiery glory via a little extra air going into them :p
 

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Yeah, "blueprinted" does not mean "built" (in the common usage of "built" where that means "built tough with forgies and so on"). Blueprinted just means that when it was assembled the bearing clearances and other tolerances were all made to be right in the middle of the range given in the engine manual. Or otherwise to some exact specific value liked/used by the builder or someone else with good knowledge on the best setup.

It is a term that I haven't really heard used by anyone since I stopped reading Street Machine about a million years ago.

It's still a common term, in specific areas. Things like go kart engines, builders will talk about blueprinting, which is pretty much as above, where it's just built to the absolute best tolerance to extract that last poofteenth of a horsepower, in a heavily restricted engine build series.

 

I've heard the term from motorbike racers too, especially 2 stroke, that seems to be the main group still using it really is 2 stroke engine guys :/

8 hours ago, Duncan said:

Welcome Dan

As you didn't mention the stock turbo, you should probably add a high flow standard turbo to your list and remove plenum and fuel rail as they are not required for a long time.

Thanks Duncan,

Bought it in 2008 had some major engine issue, Had RPM in ADL build it to apparently handle up to 400kW, After having the engine rebuilt for $10.5k and a respray for $6k spent more on it than a 33 was worth at the time. Been sitting for 2 years. Goes well but can never have 'too much' power. Just looking at where to start. Do you have any recommendations? High Flow turbo's from Hypergear seem cheap at 1k.?

 

  • Like 1
6 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Yeah I was going to comment on this. Somewhat _unusual_ to have a built, blueprinted motor when everything else is stock?

Nevertheless, the age old wisdom applies: What is your goal for the car? Be honest, and then you later find out what you need. The recipe in the other direction is sadness.

The path is not necessarily "Buy shopping list, car become more fun" 

Yeah, short story is I had children and didn't have enough disposable income to complete the upgrades. I want to drive it on the road but to also keep up with my mates e92M3 at the bend motorsport park.

  • Like 1

Welcome. 

The older I get, the more I prescribed to spend once, spend right.

(Or, poor man pays twice).

If you have a final vision in your head of what you want, try to work toward that straight off.

Hi-flow turbo would be nice, but if it won't suit your final goal, it may be a waste of funds that could go towards what you truly want.

I hope you can get it to that point one day.

 

Also, pics please 🙏 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...