Getting the R32 frontend lower

[Josh K.]

Has anyone moved the R32 FUCA outer pivot point down to allow more compression? It seems like the R32 front suspension is not happy about going low... I just swapped R32 strut towers (full GTR drivetrain, RB25/30) into my S13 and she sits a little high. I've also been looking for better control arms that don't bind but I only see bad feedback about what's on the market. Images show full compression (on jack) and then ride height with not much bump (1.5" maybe).

 

Knowing what I know now I would have gone R33 frontend but that ship has sailed. Looking to make the best out of the R32 bits.

[Duncan]

I guess that wasn't exactly a bolt in swap

Generally the best option is just not to go too low since you can get reasonable handling out of an R chassis at a little below factory height.

If you want to keep going down, there are ball joint spacers for the bottom of the hub, not really much you can do at the top without going very custom (which...you already have...)

[GTSBoy]

No, you can't move the outer pivot point down. Well, not far enough to obtain any benefit, anyway. There's only a few mm of clearance in there to the end of the control arm. You'd have to cut up and open out the pocket of the upright to make space, and then you start to encroach on tyre space. Choose your compromise. I know which one I'd choose - the one that doesn't require all that metalwork on the upright for almost no gain.

Given the surgery you've already done, the answer probably lies in moving the inner bracket upwards.

7 hours ago, Josh K. said:

I've also been looking for better control arms that don't bind but I only see bad feedback about what's on the market.

Use the GKTech ones. You just have to remember that you have spherical joints in there and perform maintenance regularly enough.

[Josh K.]

25 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

No, you can't move the outer pivot point down. Well, not far enough to obtain any benefit, anyway.

Moving the holes down also allows me to shave material off of the top. This way it can travel farther without risk of hitting the strut tower up top. I might just buy another upright and start playing with different positions and check how the suspension reacts.

For now, I'll just get the GKTech FUCA's like you suggested. I was shocked the first time I cycled the suspension and found it had so much bind up top. I initially thought I got a dimension wrong for strut tower/crossmember placement... 

Here's my Instagram if anyone wants to follow along... 風水 (@feng_shui_garage) • Instagram photos and videos

[Josh K.]

I'm really looking for another 0.5"-1" of bump for safety reasons. Crossmember will be about 1" off the ground at that point so there's that.. That's the downside of fitting an RB30 in a S13..