Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, just wondering if there are any other audio enthusiasts here?

I've been going through a phase recently,  upgraded speakers, amp, got a nice pair of headphones and now chasing a nice pair of IEMs.

Pic of my current speakers.

DALI euphonia ms5 and cs4.

Driven by NAD masters m17v2 pre pro and m27 amp.

Will eventually be home theatre and stereo music listening set up.

20240928_184959.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485884-calling-all-audiophiles/
Share on other sites

I'm a frustrated audiophile. My "listening room" is also the big TV/movie room. So the stereo speakers are also the front pair for the surround. They are Ascension Summoners, by Adelaide Speakers.

image.thumb.png.3077f1857a1c7c452919415891db3c41.png

The guy who runs Adelaide Speakers designed and built for a couple of the renowned speaker manufacturers that were based in SA back in the day.

The centre channel ends up looking a lot like yours. It's the same driver setup as this type

image.png.0a0e55470e1c8e9f9a795c54b4dbd8d5.png

But I got him to put them into a sideways oriented cab the same size as the side/rears I got.

image.png.78254068af685752bd35963afaa128ad.png

The fronts are flat down to ~20Hz, so I don't have a sub.

This is all driven by a very high end Pioneer receiver - so nice but nothing special. And worse, because the fronts can draw so much power at high volume levels, the bloody amp goes into self protection and shuts down if you turn it up too high. 8 ohm nominal can easily mean 6 and modern consumer oriented amplifiers are not as well reinforced on the supply side as they could be. I keep meaning to do something about it, but somewhat like my earlier obsession with DSLRs and Lenvy, I actively resisted dropping more money in there until the urge decreased.

If I keep listening to music at really high volume levels I'll just cut more notches in my hearing anyway. They one at 6kHz is bad enough - I need to behave myself now.

  • Like 2

Mine is boring, have a pair of Mission 701 8" book shelves, hidden behind a 3m wide entertainment unit away from the kids, matching centre with rear Mission LX3 with 1x tweeter punched in already.

Sub (now with a blown amp) was something I built about 15 years ago. Has 1x Dayton 10" HF driver and 1x 500W O-Audio plate amp, enclosed in a 90L ported enclosure tuned to about 25hz. Goes pretty loud and you do get mild chest compressions but not enough.

Have updated the receiver since, I now run a Yamaha RX-V6A just purely for all the integration and shit with streaming services and e-ARC.

 

I do want to get this:

https://www.selby.com.au/price-promise/tonewinner-sw-d6000-subwoofer.html

 

Realistically without a potential divorce, this is better:

https://www.selby.com.au/price-promise/tonewinner-sw-d4000-subwoofer.html

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
On 22/10/2024 at 2:17 PM, GTSBoy said:

I'm a frustrated audiophile. My "listening room" is also the big TV/movie room. So the stereo speakers are also the front pair for the surround. They are Ascension Summoners, by Adelaide Speakers.

image.thumb.png.3077f1857a1c7c452919415891db3c41.png

The guy who runs Adelaide Speakers designed and built for a couple of the renowned speaker manufacturers that were based in SA back in the day.

The centre channel ends up looking a lot like yours. It's the same driver setup as this type

image.png.0a0e55470e1c8e9f9a795c54b4dbd8d5.png

But I got him to put them into a sideways oriented cab the same size as the side/rears I got.

image.png.78254068af685752bd35963afaa128ad.png

The fronts are flat down to ~20Hz, so I don't have a sub.

This is all driven by a very high end Pioneer receiver - so nice but nothing special. And worse, because the fronts can draw so much power at high volume levels, the bloody amp goes into self protection and shuts down if you turn it up too high. 8 ohm nominal can easily mean 6 and modern consumer oriented amplifiers are not as well reinforced on the supply side as they could be. I keep meaning to do something about it, but somewhat like my earlier obsession with DSLRs and Lenvy, I actively resisted dropping more money in there until the urge decreased.

If I keep listening to music at really high volume levels I'll just cut more notches in my hearing anyway. They one at 6kHz is bad enough - I need to behave myself now.

As I'm sure you can tell by my set up, it's also a HT cross over.

And while the Speakers are fantastic without a sub, it does help with HT duties. Probably need a better quality sub for musical duties to get cleaner bass.

Odd that your receiver cuts out. Is it only rated for 8ohm?

There are a lot of speakers that are below that.

Look at onkyo receivers. Had one connected to the concept series(black speakers) and is rsted for 6ohm.

New speakers are 4ohm with dips to 3, so needed to update.

On 22/10/2024 at 4:48 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Mine is boring, have a pair of Mission 701 8" book shelves, hidden behind a 3m wide entertainment unit away from the kids, matching centre with rear Mission LX3 with 1x tweeter punched in already.

Sub (now with a blown amp) was something I built about 15 years ago. Has 1x Dayton 10" HF driver and 1x 500W O-Audio plate amp, enclosed in a 90L ported enclosure tuned to about 25hz. Goes pretty loud and you do get mild chest compressions but not enough.

Have updated the receiver since, I now run a Yamaha RX-V6A just purely for all the integration and shit with streaming services and e-ARC.

 

I do want to get this:

https://www.selby.com.au/price-promise/tonewinner-sw-d6000-subwoofer.html

 

Realistically without a potential divorce, this is better:

https://www.selby.com.au/price-promise/tonewinner-sw-d4000-subwoofer.html

 

Not necessarily boring.

Do you have pics?

And have you thought of just buying a new plate amp for your sub?

Those sw units look very similar to svs units.

51 minutes ago, luke gtr said:

Odd that your receiver cuts out. Is it only rated for 8ohm?

Nah, yeah, nah. Speakers have a nominal impedance of 8 ohm that looks more like 6.4 ohm when measured. The receiver's amplifiers (all channels) are all rated to 6 ohm (I think, it's been a long time since I cared). The real problem is that many modern class D amps have aggressive protection circuitry that cuts off the fun if they think too much current is being drawn. And with my speakers having series crossovers, as opposed to more typical parallel crossovers, and big TL enclosures, they can certainly dip down to lower impedances at some frequencies and that easily triggers the protection. Pioneer receivers are somewhat famous for it, but even Denon, Onkyo, et al, all have many complaints against them across various models.

It only does it when listening to music at high levels. You have to be putting your ears at risk to do it. But sometimes I want to do that.

If I was serious about using it as a listening room I'd simply upgrade the amp for the front pair to a nice Rotel or something, and just use the receiver for signal handling and processing - although that would be a bit of a pain in the arse too. Have to switch on more shit, pre-amp volume vs main amp volume, etc etc.

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

 

If I was serious about using it as a listening room I'd simply upgrade the amp for the front pair to a nice Rotel or something, and just use the receiver for signal handling and processing - although that would be a bit of a pain in the arse too. Have to switch on more shit, pre-amp volume vs main amp volume, etc etc.

With my pre/power I use a remote trigger cable(3.5mm jack each end).

I turn tv on, it turns both on via ARC.

Or, just the pre with the remote or its streaming software, turns on both.

Not that difficult at all.

Obviously,  you would also want to actually update/upgrade over other factors in your life(bills, family, other hobbies, etc)

4 hours ago, luke gtr said:

Not necessarily boring.

Do you have pics?

And have you thought of just buying a new plate amp for your sub?

Those sw units look very similar to svs units.

I'll snap up some photos when I'm back home, in the office today meeting my "in the office" quota.

Have 2x Teams calls scheduled in, office culture they reckon.

 

I've never owned a proper off the shelf sub, I've always made or modified broken ones with Jaycar plate amps and/or car subwoofer drivers.

The current (and broken) subwoofer has a proper home driver in it, Dayton driver, thos one

https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/118/rss265hf-4-10-reference-hf-subwoofer-4-ohm

FS of 25Hz, which is low but not low enough.

Yeah, I think they were brought out to the market to compete with SVS. I would love a SVS PB-3000 but they're not cheap, especially after their price hike.

From reviews online, it does look like the Tonewinner D6000 would destroy and with good amount of money saved too.

19 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

I'll just leave this here.

https://www.adelaidespeakers.com/subwoofers.html

TL loading, big power. They sound awesome. This is what I would buy if I was going to try to take the bass away from my floorstanders. Just go with the 12".

-6dB at 22Hz isn't that great, watch the data from the D6000 from REW

Screenshot_20241106-115629.thumb.png.9a6ab7d4fe6b68b16a73e33f951360fc.png

Granted, which is a solid reason why I don't have one. My floorstanders are only -2 dB at 22 Hz.  So they're still working down to <20 Hz. Which is no doubt part of the reason why my receiver shits the bed!

That Tonewinner would be about double the cost though, so it's not apples and apples. There aren't many AU$1300 subs (that you can buy prebuilt, I'm ignoring what can be achieved by DIYing) that compete.

15 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

That Tonewinner would be about double the cost though, so it's not apples and apples. There aren't many AU$1300 subs (that you can buy prebuilt, I'm ignoring what can be achieved by DIYing) that compete.

Surprisingly the D6000 is only $1999, I'm waiting for the BF/CM sales, and hoping to get one cheaper.

D4000 is well priced, still outperforms the 13" SVS PB-3000 and is like 1/2 the price at $1699 RRP.

I do watch a fair amount of movies, and listen to EDM, jazz, symphonies, etc. so the lower notes from a subwoofer are always appreciated. The front 8" stage, just doesn't provide you with lively feeling, even though they are pretty bassy for a pair of large bookshelves.

Then again, these days it's just playing Wiggles, Blippi and Ms Rachel, another reason the 3m wide cabinet exists, to hide all the audio gear behind it. They used to sit on a nice pair of stands, but as you know, they make good baby traps too.

8 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

 

I've never owned a proper off the shelf sub, I've always made or modified broken ones with Jaycar plate amps and/or car subwoofer drivers.

The current (and broken) subwoofer has a proper home driver in it, Dayton driver, thos one

https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/118/rss265hf-4-10-reference-hf-subwoofer-4-ohm

FS of 25Hz, which is low but not low enough.

 

https://www.redgumaudio.com/product/rgsw8-amplifier-plate/

 

these guys are closing down.
and probably pretty exxy.
but, worth asking the question???

13 hours ago, luke gtr said:

Do you have pics?

You can see the speakers laid flat (instead of sitting upright). Apparently sound travels a bit better through this mesh than others, but I did have to max out the treble to nearly make them sound like prior when they were on stands.

I also made the cabinet shelves taller, to accommodate a future Emotiva power amp for imaginary nice floor standing speakers I don't have at the moment lol.

And yes, most of the mesh has been pushed it and all warped.

PXL_20241106_085007718~2.jpg

44 minutes ago, luke gtr said:

https://www.redgumaudio.com/product/rgsw8-amplifier-plate/

 

these guys are closing down.
and probably pretty exxy.
but, worth asking the question???

Might as well just upgrade to a Tonewinner D6000... I think if it goes down to $1.5 to $1.6k I'm going to do it... Will work out which part of the couch I'm allowed to sleep on once I'm banned from the bedroom.

 

43 minutes ago, luke gtr said:

personally, ive been looking at rel s510.
theres a guy near newcastle that has a pair at a decent price(compared to retail).

have heard some pretty good things.

Same, however technology changes and these days those once amazing subs are just mediocre compared to a SVS, Velodyne and now (apparently) Tonewinner.

 

36 minutes ago, luke gtr said:

Clean set up.

Do you notice any impact with the doors sitting out in front?

(If/when you get time to listen)

They're always closed, treble performance drops and I notice the speakers fall off axis quite easily.

Compromise right? I ran the room calibration with the door closed etc. and you could tell the room EQ correction slapped on more mid and treble. With Yamaha's YPAO, you can't see what has been applied to the EQ with correction applied, where as the older Audessey it showed you the post correction EQ.

  • Like 1
21 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Same, however technology changes and these days those once amazing subs are just mediocre compared to a SVS, Velodyne and now (apparently) Tonewinner.

There is an svs pb13 ultra on fb marketplace that I've been watching.

Might have to actually try and hear some in the flesh.

Same guy with the rel's also has a matching sub to my lcr speakers.

Updated drivers, but isn't cheap.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Rotisserie is fully assembled apart from centre connector which obviously isn't required until the car is on it. It packs away fairly neatly and doesn't take up too much room. (Now that I actually have some room after my clean up!) Overall very happy with the quality of it.  Assembly was a piece of piss.  The only thing I didn't like was that the pins that lock the rotation lock wheels in place were a bit of a dick in a bucket scenario. It allowed the arms to rotate a significant amount even when locked in place.  To fix that i measured up the hole and went and grabbed a couple of 18mm fully threaded bolts and a thread tap to suit. I ran the tap through top and bottom so it was threaded both ends.  Then just threaded the bolt through both sides.  It has made a massive difference which hopefully you can tell in the before and after video how much difference it made. 20250207_161431.mp4   20250207_161431.mp4 Hopefully back working on the car over the next few weeks.   20250207_162801.mp4
    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
×
×
  • Create New...