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Update:

 

smoke test all pipes no issues

cleaned reservoir

 

fluid put in ( dexron 3 atf)

 

steering turn side to side and could hearing  gurgling from steering rack which I assumed was air lock, opened one of the steering rack connections and could see loads of air getting pushed out( not sure if you meant to do that / whether it will re introduce air into system)

 

anyways, loads of side to side sound was gone. Turned car on, pump was slightly ( barely) wining so turned side to side few more turns and fluid level when car on was almost none in resorvoir which I guess is normal if car is one. Turned car of and fluid was gushing out. Almost 200-300cc was pushed out. Repeated engine off side to side followed  by engine on and same result

 

 

 

going mad now. It seems system is either sucking air in whilst on or there is tons of air which I am not giving it enough time to bleed. Thoughts?

 

would it work like brake caliper if I open steering rack copper pipes and let gravity pull all air out?

 

or maybe have a restriction somewhere? What is the red circled item, could that be blocked? It i

IMG_2165.jpeg

Edited by drifter17a
5 hours ago, drifter17a said:

Update:

 

smoke test all pipes no issues

cleaned reservoir

 

fluid put in ( dexron 3 atf)

 

steering turn side to side and could hearing  gurgling from steering rack which I assumed was air lock, opened one of the steering rack connections and could see loads of air getting pushed out( not sure if you meant to do that / whether it will re introduce air into system)

 

anyways, loads of side to side sound was gone. Turned car on, pump was slightly ( barely) wining so turned side to side few more turns and fluid level when car on was almost none in resorvoir which I guess is normal if car is one. Turned car of and fluid was gushing out. Almost 200-300cc was pushed out. Repeated engine off side to side followed  by engine on and same result

 

 

 

going mad now. It seems system is either sucking air in whilst on or there is tons of air which I am not giving it enough time to bleed. Thoughts?

 

would it work like brake caliper if I open steering rack copper pipes and let gravity pull all air out?

 

or maybe have a restriction somewhere? What is the red circled item, could that be blocked? It i

IMG_2165.jpeg

You can try capping the power steering idle up valve at both ends if it's old. The valve and the intake manifold. That is something that is known to fail in Toyotas with age and it will suck power steering fluid into the intake and burn it in the engine which can cause issues. Then bleed it again with engine off first. Do like 30+ lock to lock turns with the front wheels off the ground.

  • Thanks 1
4 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

You can try capping the power steering idle up valve at both ends if it's old. The valve and the intake manifold. That is something that is known to fail in Toyotas with age and it will suck power steering fluid into the intake and burn it in the engine which can cause issues. Then bleed it again with engine off first. Do like 30+ lock to lock turns with the front wheels off the ground.

Great will test

I might have found it, it was the inlet clip from resorviour leaking bur unsure if that is because I did not put the clamp back on correctly ( fully on the groove) or it had moved/ had always being like that

 

i moved the clamp and now doing more tests

 

i pressurised the system to 30 psi ( hydrulic system can take way more by doing little search around 150-400psi) and seen fluid was pushed out from inlet clamp. See my ingenious way of doing :)

 

now doing vacumme test.  

IMG_2168.jpeg

2 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Rack boot?

Green liquid is more likely to be coolant that got there somehow during some previous terrible event. What does it taste like?

Yeah , boot clamp was solid/ not sure how it got there but no leak so all good

 

there is loads of green grease still so do think it is likely to be a special grease or something 

 

thanks again for your help mate to shed the light

12 hours ago, drifter17a said:

I might have found it, it was the inlet clip from resorviour leaking bur unsure if that is because I did not put the clamp back on correctly ( fully on the groove) or it had moved/ had always being like that

 

i moved the clamp and now doing more tests

 

i pressurised the system to 30 psi ( hydrulic system can take way more by doing little search around 150-400psi) and seen fluid was pushed out from inlet clamp. See my ingenious way of doing :)

 

now doing vacumme test.  

IMG_2168.jpeg

Constant tension spring clamps need to be replaced if bent past a certain point. Once they turn to a certain age it's also an automatic replacement in my book. They get rusty and lose their tension. Also once hoses get to a certain age if you don't set the clamp exactly in the groove when disconnecting/reconnecting the hose it will almost certainly leak.

As mentioned before you should also cap off the idle-up valve to make sure it's not sucking fluid or leaking air into the system. It's generally speaking less demotivating to figure out which change fixed your problem vs failing over and over until you locate the problem precisely.

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