Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

 

what short shifter do you use on your skykine r34?

 

my synchronous does have a problem and i was getting huge delay and grinding sound between 2nd and 3rd, did put shockproof red heavy stuff and it is great now/ no issues

 

would in your view short shifter screw this up?

 

people seems to suggest/ use cube short shifter and there is standard and premium. Seen review of premium as much better and less play. Thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485946-short-shifter-r34/
Share on other sites

Don't do it if your gearbox box has already having syncro issues.

The short hifter will put a greater load on them.

If you must I remember Nismo did a shorter shifter, with the top part being physically shorter and the part that went into the gearbox was the same as stock.

In saying that I've had a C's short shifter (I think) in mine for many years, which was given to me as the previous owner was not sympathetic to the gearbox.

Thus forwarned I was careful and had to modify my normal changing style. You have to be super accurate with your clutch and shifts

  • Like 1

Because you're effectively rushing the shift and forcing it to go in - with greater leverage against parts that don't _want_ to go together. Short shift = forcing the gear in harder.

Also Redline Heavy Shockproof actively says not to use it in anything with Synchros.
Well, it says "not recommended" which is basically as far as anyone will ever say in a product statement to "Do not use"

Generally the Redline makes the gearbox feel great... until it fails faster.

https://www.redlineoil.com/heavy-shockproof

1 hour ago, drifter17a said:

Throw between gears are so much that is getting annoying. I have pro short shifter on my mx5 and e36 and love it . Skyline is getting unbearable 

 

would syncro issues and short shifter is no no? Anyone mind explaining a little on why before i buy cube

Throws on the FS5R30A in most Nissans of this era are actually quite short and direct compared to any remotely modern BMW with the S6-53 transmission. Those things have throws a mile long with rubbery vague everything. Synchro issues combined with a short shifter is just going to break everything even faster.

How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush.

Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box

3 hours ago, Duncan said:

How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush.

Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box

Way more than 1cm. Appreciate the advice maybe I try changing the bushing first

1 hour ago, drifter17a said:

Way more than 1cm. Appreciate the advice maybe I try changing the bushing first

Start by replacing the bushing and shifter cup. Two plastic pieces in the OEM shift mechanism that can wear out and cause these problems. It's like 15 USD from Amayama before shipping. You can replace with aftermarket brass bushings but personally I was fine with OEM. The stock shifter working properly doesn't feel like there's any real problems with it.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...